dzeleski

Sorry, I was referring to Trent’s case. It’s all been internal hearings not within the judicial system.

We will find out soon enough because the case is going to come outside of the FAA and into public record. Personally I think the person who reported him knows someone. I think once this case comes out from the internal FAA arbitration one of two things will happen, either Trent is a complete liar or grossly misrepresenting what he did... OR the FAA is incompetent. Your point is quite valid however.

Considering he just posted a completely cringe worthy video about how hes sorry but he still got his license back.... Im guessing no lesson was learned here. How the FAA allows Trevor to have a cert after doing what he did mean while Trent is still fighting with the FAA over an inspection pass on private property is nothing short of complete insanity.

I dont wanna derail the main topic of your post but.... I would recommend you not do that. The engine just isnt getting hot enough on the ground and its not running long enough. Go fly the thing for an hour, go to the practice area do a stall, couple steep turns, slow flight, and come back. It keeps the engine running, doesnt cost very much, and keeps you sharper. Take a peak at the: "Should you ground run?" section. https://www.aviationconsumer.com/maintenance/engine-storage-101the-30-day-rule/ "In our view, the ground running of an engine is not a substitute for flying it when it comes to dispelling moisture. Running it on the ground simply doesn’t get the engine hot enough, plus it tends to cause uneven heating at higher power, so you’re likely just wasting fuel doing so."

Be careful with this, you could be doing more harm then good. When the engine only gets slightly warm it causes condensation to form which adds a ton of water to the oil and crank case. In general the best practice for any engine is to run it up to normal operating temp (aka actually flying) for at least 30 minutes so that all of the water in the crankcase/oil can evaporate. As far as the ownership is concerned, you need to be careful with that as well. There needs to be several legal documents involved protecting you and your airplane. Including an LLC. There have been a few posts about this here but its usually referred to as a "partnership" if you need a better search term.

I completely understand and I appreciate the conversation. There are unfortunately endless old wives tales that continue to be circulated around in aviation. So I’m always very hesitant to believe anything without seeing specific data or proof.

I fully understand what you are saying. I’m saying I don’t buy it. If the study wasn’t posted publicly it doesn’t exist. Volkswagen had mechanisms on their air cooled engines for decades to block airflow during warmup that were thermally controlled.

I’ve got 4 CHT probes, all four increase. More importantly I get oil temp faster which is what actually matters for cold ops. I get what you are saying but an idling air cooled engine in freezing temps isn’t going to create enough heat to cause hot spots that actually matter. The first few inches of the prop are damn near round, there is very little airflow going through the cowl at idle even with them open, which is part of the reason for facing into the wind for a run up. The difference during taxi speeds on CHT are most noticeable, that extra airflow really drops them if they are open.

I’m not sure that’s accurate for a Lycoming IO-360 in a J at least. My CHTs go up with them closed. That’s also with the cowl flaps adjusted closed not slightly open as normally recommended. You happen to have a link to that test?

I adjust my cowl flaps in the winter and adjust them again once spring hits. Pretty much fully closed during the winter and 1/2 inch open during the summer. It takes 10 minutes to adjust them. In the winter the cowl flaps should be closed on the ground and depending on ambient they are even closed during take off. Once the CHTs rise to 350 or so I put them in trail and just monitor from there but sometimes it’s so cold I never even need to touch it. I also leave them closed for approach and landing.

I think you are 100% spot on. When I started my IR my instructor eventually had a conversation with me once I got pretty comfortable in actual conditions that was roughly: "Look, you should plan well and not get yourself into a stupid situation. But... if you do something dumb and get into the clouds for some stupid reason, declare an emergency and tell them you messed up, ask for a pop up, and just fly as if you were an IR pilot. You already broke the law, so just own it and stay alive." I've got about 40 hours of IMC a little over a year later, and I find transitioning is still the hardest part. Taking off with low ceilings and staying in it until I pop out at mins I find is way easier then being in cruise for 3 hours in VFR conditions and then immediately needing to do an approach to even non precision minimums. It takes significant focus to switch into IMC mode.

It only takes one silly mental lapse to make a massive mistake or one chatty hangar neighbor from getting you out of your flow, causing you to forget something like the towbar. My CFI would kill me if he saw me doing that. The airplane should either be 100% ready to fly or 100% parked and cleaned up, no in between.

Yes 100%. The interior will still hold the heat, of course it drops a little by the time you get in but it’s still way better than ambient. It takes the nip out of the interior and makes it way more enjoyable to start up and instantly be warm. The leather is warm, the yoke isn’t an ice cube, it’ll also help with avionics that have spinning things. I’ve also noticed my controls being less stiff (throttle, mixture, etc). I have a remote switch that I schedule the morning of a flight(switche on). 4 hours before the engine heater comes on and 1 hour before the interior heater comes on. It’s basically like starting up in the spring time.

I screwed mine into a small piece of wood and put it on the back seat. I run the power wire out the cargo door and just leave the door slightly cracked open. You could also just run the wire through the pilot window but I found that more annoying.

I use a hornet heater works really well and has lots of safety features to make sure you won’t cause a fire. Whatever you use make sure it’s fuel safe! edit: https://www.aircraftheaters.com/aircraftheaters I have the 45, it turns on at 55 and off at 65. It doesn’t get hot enough to melt anything either.

Check out this post I made awhile back. I had a similar issue and it ended up being the wheel faring causing the pad to move away from the rotor. The mechanic I used at the time lost some washers for the faring without realizing it.

The only thing missing on the IFD 440 swap would be VNAV when paired with a GFC. In all honestly I dont find im missing it. I have had zero issues in 3 years and 300 hours on my Dual G5, GFC 500, IFD 440 install, minus the servo recall and the software AD for the GFC. Everything else works perfectly fine as the 440 is feature compatible with a 430, so if it works with a 430 it works with the 440. I was very concerned with over upgrading a 1977 J and decided a slide in replacement for my 430 was the better more cost efficient route. I dont regret that decision at all and actually much prefer the avidyne workflow over garmins.

What do you mean by it failed? 200RPM drop only means something if you do a mag test with the mixture at full rich. I dont actually care how much the RPM drops because I do my mag test leaned out. What I do care about is that all of my EGTs see a rise and that the RPM drop between sides is close. When you do the ground test what is your procedure for doing it? When you do the inflight test the engine will run rougher, it shouldnt feel like a missing cylinder though. What is your definition of failed for this? https://resources.savvyaviation.com/in-flight-diagnostics/ Most importantly... Do you have an engine monitor? Can you upload the test data and share the data?

I would change the title of the post to "searching for intake duct". Unfortunately though this is gonna be a difficult search. Have you contacted Lasar, Maxwell, any other larger MSCs? Clarance at Tri city areo might have them as well.

FYI your address is in that image. Might want to edit it out. At only 25 hours depending on what type of cylinders you have, break in might not be totally done. How many hours did you run on mineral oil? What did the filter look like? I would run another 10-20 hours and sample again. If you have a borescope you can throw that down the cylinders and see if you see anything insane but I wouldnt be panicking just yet if everything else is doing well. Edit: https://www.avweb.com/ownership/the-savvy-aviator-21-checking-the-oil/ Iron or steel. Iron and steel are readily identifiable because they are magnetic. Any significant quantity of iron or steel particles or flakes in the filter is cause for concern. Generally, you should not fly the aircraft until the source has been determined. If the cause is not readily apparent, you may want to consider sending your filter contents to an expert for microscopic examination, which often can pinpoint the source. The most likely sources are cam lobes, tappet (valve lifter) faces, and cylinder walls (if the barrels are steel) or piston rings (if they are chrome), but there are also a lot of other steel parts in the engine (accessory gears and shafts, starter adapters, etc.) that can generate ferrous particles.

Im kinda late to this party but being on the east coast this was never even a concern until I flew across the country in July this year. The J will do it, its not happy about it, and its not a comfortable place to be on a regular basis in my opinion. The book numbers always lined up pretty close to what I actually got in real life but I made sure I was 150-200lbs under gross and I tried to be on the ground before 12pm every day. I took off from Centennial, CO with DAs around 7-9k, the take off roll was easily double what I was used to at sea level. Similar story in Page, AZ and St. George, UT. Getting used to feeling like you are doing 100mph over the ground and it doesnt want to fly is very strange to deal with for the first time but you get used to it after a few take offs and landings. Doing that a few times a year is one thing, but if I lived in these locations there is absolutely no chance I would still own my J. It would be put up for sale and I would get into a 6 cylinder or a turbo 4 cylinder immediately. Climbing out at 200-400fpm with such a shallow climb gradient is not a comfortable feeling, im sure some of you will laugh at that since this is just normal for you but Im just personally not ok with it. Its just way too marginal for me and I was easily able to see how so many people kill themselves in these situations with just a touch of a mistake somewhere.

Actually this is so much harder and this company did this on purpose to make your lives harder. https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/179/is-there-any-way-to-download-a-sketch-from-an-arduino They probably set the security bit for one. But if they didn’t you will only get hex back which will need to be dumped to assembly and then manually converted back to C. Sorry it’s been a long time since I worked with arduinos.

That’s really unfortunate. If you feel like grabbing the Arduino dev tools you can most likely open the software and fix it yourself still. But it’s probably running C rather than python which is more obtuse. https://averagemaker.com/2018/03/wemos-d1-mini-setup.html Edit: don’t upload that test code you want to download the stored code. Agreed, the fact that they are only providing a paid upgrade for their stupid design is not a good look.

I’d recommend avoiding the company at all costs if you are looking for one of these. Absolutely disgusting behavior at a ridiculous price. This whole comment is basically a lie. Performance is more than fine on a raspi for this, and a typical pi boots in 10 seconds or so.

The fact that they hardcoded a url with no means of updating the code on a product that costs several hundred dollars is wild. The fact that they are going to charge for the “hardware” upgrade due to that is even more insane. The fact they aren’t willing to support DIY changes to the old raspi hardware is gross. Their comments that their software has gotten so complicated that it now requires a subscription is pure madness, it’s a few API calls and setting RGB color states for a few addressable LEDs. Im glad I decided to build my own map with my own software instead of getting stuck with this crap. If anyone needs help updating their SD card feel free to DM me I’d be happy to have a brief convo with you to apply the fix they half ass posted.