dzeleski

I don't fly nearly as high as you do but I did get my J up to 16k a few months ago and had to switch to a mask and the highest F mode to get my O2 back. I live at 20ft MSL so my body is not used to higher altitudes at all but it did get me back into the high 90s without issues. Granted though I do not have an installed system its a portable system, but it is capable of working the way you are asking assuming things are working correctly. Did you call them with the issue? They actually have really good support and its possible something was wrong with the system. Its possible your regulator is much lower pressure then the standard regulator that they ship from MH and your bravo needs a slightly different adjusted one from MH or you may not even need one if the pressure is low enough. See the attached screenshot if you have not seen it. Basically in short if your system already provides 16-20 psi you dont need that extra regulator most likely. That being said, since I live at sea level I started using O2 anytime Im cruising above 6k. I feel a hell of a lot less tired after a full day of flying and im not nearly as irritable either. Im 32, 170lbs and in good shape. I keep the O2D2 set to D5 when I plan on flying for more then an hour or two.

My grandfather had it done before he passed. The next time I saw him after he had the surgery he said it was like having 20 year old eyes again. I know there are some risks depending on the case but if they say you have a good case I think its a pretty standard procedure at this point. Give your AME a ring as well just in case

Exactly this. Only thing I’ll add here is use the correct lube in the correct spot as per the service manual. I had nothing broken or “wrong” just a pure lack of maintenance on the trim system.

That’s very much not good. You need this looked at ASAP. It could also be a servo issue there was a recall but if you just got it installed you probably aren’t affected. Still possible that you got a bad or weak servo. If your shop hasn’t done a lot of mooneys I would ask them to reach out to a shop that has to get some advice. Also tell them to call garmin. What you can do is inspect the grease on the jack screw. Mine was absolutely thrashed and was 50% of the problem.

Yep similar issue, the chances of the airplane passing the ground test in the up direction are slim even on a well rigged and maintained trim system. That being said you still have a problem here, it should make it stop to stop without issues and stopping. It might just be on the slower side. We had to completely pull apart my trim system cleaned, re lubed, and re rig everything in the tail to get it as close as we could. Garmin was called and they advised on my airframe slightly slower on the ground is ok. With wind loading in the air it’s completely to spec. After all this work my manual trim has never been easier and the ground test just barely fails in the up direction. If I recall correctly it took <30 seconds up rather then the 24 that is written. My serial is 24-0095, 77 J.

The gfc manual says it’s optional and not required, but I’m not sure why you wouldn’t install it. The trim switches do a few extra things for safety though. Hitting the trim switch with the AP on kicks the AP off as well as stopping a commanded trim runaway. You always have the CB as well but having the switch there is nice.

No problem, please do a VFR flight test for all modes to make sure it’s working correctly. Do a few different practice approaches, gps tracks, ILS, LPV, etc.

My IFD 440 is set to GAMA 429 for OUT. I believe there is another config page for the CDI/OBS config as well as the VOR/LOC/GS config. I would double check those values. Edit: I believe VNAV ENABLED needs to be selected as well. https://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01112-10_19.pdf#page144 Section 5.12.3

I don’t think Wesley has flown an airplane in his life let alone use an EFB. What an unbelievable waste of taxpayer money. The fact that there are two different definitions for installed vs portable with completely contradictory requirements is actually hilarious. +1 on ignoring this crap

I’ll add to this because I completely agree, the annual done by the owner as apart of my purchase of my J was $10k, the next 3 annuals were about $5k, the last two have been $10k and $13k. On top of random stuff sprinkled in through out the year (hoses, cables, sensors, oil, etc). And we are completely ignoring the 60k in panel work. When a cylinder goes, a valve sticks, or the tanks leak things get expensive. Then something like your spinner bulkhead cracks and the part doesn’t exist so your December annual turns into a May annual. You can write down whatever numbers you want on a spreadsheet but the accuracy of those numbers are going to be wrong. If insurance cost is what is preventing you from moving forward I would highly reconsider the entire concept of owning an airplane at this cost bracket or RG. I bought my J at 80 hours TT, I don’t regret it but it took me another 100 hours to feel confident enough to do my IR. There is no chance in hell I would try flying for work without an IR, your dispatch rate will be terrible or you are going to be taking massive risks to do the flight. Just another set of pennies though.

Not sure on the E but on my J my overhead vents rattle at certain RPMs. Might be worth touching them and see if the rattle goes away.

It’s done via balloons every handful of hours. https://www.weather.gov/rah/virtualtourballoon https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weather_balloon

I’ll try that next time thanks! I only recently realized this last year when I flew across the US and realized the numbers were not making any sense what so ever.

I’ve had serious issues with flight planning winds with FF. Sometimes it is wildly incorrect and it seems to be something to do with interpolating between measurements points. I also believe it uses a combination of measured winds and forecasted winds.

@Echo Have you visually checked to make sure your mixture control actually brings the mixture back to the ICO stop on the servo? Or asked another way, when you pull back to ICO does the engine shut off immediately or does it run on and stumble for a few seconds? If the cable isn’t reaching ICO the engine will stumble and continue to pull fuel rather than starve, leaving more fuel in the intake when it finally does shut off. Since it’s open more fuel can leak into the intake as the pressure bleeds off. This floods the engine. Then when you go to start again it is able to pull more fuel into the engine making the situation even worse. I had this problem recently when my mixture cable failed. You also might want to make sure the sniffle valve is clean and free as well.

When you are used to climbing at SL in a J at 800-1200 feet per minute and you get out west and your take off climb rate is 200 fpm its not ideal. Ive described it as marginal before because even modest down drafts in the mountains cause more stress then I prefer when flying. I can easily see how people kill themselves in conditions like that. Will the J do it? Yep, and itll probably do a decent job outside of the summer months as well, but for me it was too close to the edge of its performance window. Inside of summer I wouldnt really consider doing it on a regular basis. If I moved out west I would immediately sell my J and get something with a turbo, or at least a 6 cylinder.

Signature is so inconsistent... I generally try to avoid them unless I know its a "good location". Signature North at KAPA was amazing, Signature at KACY.... lets just say its very unfortunate they are the only FBO. If you call ahead at Atlantic and tell them the situation im sure they would be very accommodating to you. They have always done more then I needed without even asking so if you do ask you'll probably get treated quite nicely.

Agreed, I think this is the bigger issue, finances/insurance aside. I paused my IR for exactly that reason.

My opinion was that if oil consumption is 1qt/10hrs it would be pretty unlikely that the plug is oil fouled. Either way pull the plug, it will tell you.

I dont think I said anywhere that the engine wont run just fine, it 100% will run. I and many others absolutely had plug issues by running rich on the ground, my plugs had far more lead build up in them then they do when I stay lean on the ground. Mike Busch recommends it as well. Edit: https://resources.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/slides_airventure2021/2021-07-27 1000 F7 Leaning the Right Way.pdf Page 19 is the summary

Could also just be a bad plug... if you can identify which one it is and swap it with another cylinder, if the issue follows then you have a bad plug. You can also ask your A&P to test the spark plug and see if it passes.

Thats pretty normal oil consumption. If you get photos you can post them here, a bunch of us can help explain what is happening based on photos. A fowled plug doesnt really mean anything is "wrong" on its own. Have you operated an M20 before or was this your first? Are you leaning aggressively on the ground immediately after engine start? If you are not leaning to the point that adding throttle starts to kill the engine you risk fouling a plug. If you are leaning, then you should figure out which plug is fouled (if you have an engine monitor it should be pretty easy to see during the mag check), pull it and see if its lead fouled or oil. If a mag check doesnt make the problem worse or better then you might have "morning sickness" and you may have a valve that is sticking when cold, if you have an engine monitor this is also really easy to spot.

Depends what cylinders are installed, If the engine isnt run hard chrome cylinders can take ages to break in. A little bit of oil after shutdown isnt unheard of especially if the rings just happen to line up the right way. It can also be sneaking in from the valves during shut down. If its a proper pool of oil and the lower spark plug is oil soaked you might have a problem. Generally that would come with pretty high oil consumption as well. A borescope would revel quite a bit however. https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2019/january/pilot/savvy-maintenance-breaking-good "Up to this point, I’ve been discussing break-in of conventional steel-barreled cylinders. There are also two types of electroplated cylinder barrels used in piston aircraft engines: chrome-plated and nickel-plated. Chrome-plated cylinders are extremely hard and durable and utilize a non-honed channeling process to achieve the necessary oil-wettability. Nickel-plated cylinders employ carbide granules embedded in the plating for the same purpose." "The rules for breaking in these plated cylinders are much like those for ordinary steel cylinders. However, channel-chrome cylinders generally require more time to break in—sometimes 50 hours or more—and generally exhibit higher oil consumption than steel cylinders. Nickel-carbide cylinders, on the other hand, tend to break in very quickly and have very low oil consumption." If you dont know what type of cylinder you have installed: https://www.lycoming.com/content/understanding-engine-color-codes

One thing to add is that where the oil sits does not really determine where its leaking from. So dont think because its in X location it must be directly above said location. The air flow in the cowl moves oil ALL over the place. A tiny amount of oil makes a HUGE mess. The fastest way to find the leak is as said above, clean the engine, taxi around using higher then normal taxi RPM (raises oil pressure), come back and remove the cowl. It should be pretty obvious. Personally I would not be flying that airplane with an oil leak that was touching the exhaust, thats a great way to have an engine fire.

Oil leaks that I have had to track down on my J: Cylinder head drain tube clamps, and the tubes themselves Oil filter adapter gasket Oil sump bolts/nuts loose Slightly stuck open oil quick drain Oil/Air separator mounting issues, causes tank to not drain correctly and make a mess Other places to check: Prop Governor Loose Mag Crank seal Push rod tubes