PT20J

You are still in the normal range, but something is somewhat different. If it were mine, I'd just watch it, and if it doesn't get worse, I'd see what happened after the next filter/oil change. If you are worried about it, you could just change the filter and see if that makes a difference since that is the only part that was changed.

I believe they are Magnesium. Use plastic media if blasting for paint removal. Refinishing instructions are in the Cleveland manual. AWBCMM0001-12.pdf WBtech.PDF

A quart every four hours is a pretty big leak. I like @Fritz1 idea. You might try spray baby powder if you don't have the developer.

Get some duct seal from the hardware store. It works great for sealing openings like the wire pass through to the tailcone.

That's always been the problem: Most work, some don't, no one knows why.

Check the schematics in the service manual. The p-leads should be the same and they should be shielded wire to reduce radiated RF which can get in the radios. I wonder if someone added some sort of filter because or radio noise? The capacitor in the mag should be sufficient. If yours isn't shielded, I would replace the p-lead with a proper one. Bogart is one source.

It is impossible to seal everything. I keep a couple of bait stations in the hangar and a couple of ultrasonic devices plugged in and sometimes I've tossed a peppermint oil repellent bag in the baggage compartment. So far, I haven't had an issue.

If you are stranded away from home and cannot find a link, I don't see why a temporary repair could not be made using some .020 safety wire in place of the clip.

It's really hard to tell without measuring, but it looks like the master link pins might not be parallel which may be why the clip came off. I don't even know if you can buy just a clip, but I would get an entire new link just to be safe. I think #25 is quarter inch pitch and most bike chains are half inch pitch. But, I agree with Eric that it there is nothing "aircraft" special about it. You might just have to call around to find the part. Worst case you can order it from a chain supplier.

www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net does mine.

There are three types of fasteners used on the cowling: 1) 10-32 screws at the front of the top cowling. These screw into nut plates on the lower cowling. You can use nylon plain washers on these to protect the paint if you wish. 2) Small (2700) Camlocs on the sides of the upper cowling that mate with receptacles on the lower cowling. These should have a split washer on the inside under the pin to keep them from coming completely out. Often these get lost and some people remove them so that the Camlocs can be completely removed to make the top cowling easier to remove. 3) Large (4002) Camlocs at the rear of the upper and lower cowlings that attach to receptacles on the fuselage. These should be captive and are difficult to change without special pliers.

As I understand it, the difference in the battery time specifications is partly due to the fact that requirements are different for TSO (GI 275) vs non-TSO (G5) instruments. However, it takes a lot more current to run a GI 275 than a G5. According to the installation manuals, the GI 275 draws 0.75A @ 14V and the G5 draws 0.2A @ 14V. That nicer display, brighter backlight, and additional interface capability isn't free. On all the units, turn the backlight down as far as possible when running on battery.

Auto paint stores have a hand held guns for color matching. If there is part of the panel you can remove to take into the store, that would be the easiest. If not and there is a store close to the airport maybe you could work some kind of a deal to have them come out to the plane. I might also call the shop again and ask them where they bought the paint and then talk to that store directly.

The repair keeps the cowl flap hinges from hitting muffler. But, the cowling still rocks up and back putting it slightly out of alignment with the spinner after flight although it lines up fine when first installed. I contacted Paul Loewen because I heard that LASAR had some fix that no one currently there remembers. He said that Mooney used floating receptacle Camlocs and his fix was to replace some with fixed receptacles. But, according to the IPC Mooney used floating receptacles on M20Js early on, then switched to fixed and then went back to floating. Go figure. Sure enough mine are fixed. I compared the installed receptacles and studs with new and they don’t seem worn appreciably. Paul’s other suggestion was to install a couple of 10-32 screws with nut plates at the bottom of the lower cowl. I’m trying to decide if it’s worth the trouble or to just leave it alone.

I believe that Garmin uses a Cygnet CA3112-G. I've seen pictures of it on a Beech yoke but not on a Mooney. Do you have a picture of the installation? Thanks.

I stand corrected

Yes, B-K used the same switch forever. That’s what was in my KAP 150.

A lot of those plates are not considered inspection panels -- they are there for access during manufacturing. That's why on later Mooney's some are pop riveted. The factory annual/100 hr checklist only says you need to lubricate the control system and inspect the interior of the wing in the area of the fuel tanks for leaks. Any additional openings are up to you and your IA.

I have a speed brake switch on the left yoke horn and I found that is is pretty easy to brush against it if I reach around the left side of the yoke. It's a pretty sensitive button and haven't even felt it when I've bumped it. Usually I do this when doing something on the ground and don't notice the brakes deployed until I turn of the master and hear the loud CLUNK. Regarding the trim -- a sheared roll pin would do it. The interesting question though is how it would have been sheared. The GFC 500 trim servo doesn't have nearly enough torque to do it -- it would have to have been sheared by forcing the trim wheel. Does your trim have the modified jam proof stepped stop nuts? If not, it's possible the installer jammed it when working on the GFC 500 install and damaged the roll pin when breaking it free. Here's a link to the service instruction https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SIM20-88A.pdf

I assume Mike uses the Xylene to dissolve varnish perhaps left behind by overheated oil. I know a mechanic that swears by flushing with MMO. He claims an FAA mechanic told him they added it to the fuel in DC-3s back when they were used as flight check aircraft to check navaids. MMO is mineral spirits, TCP and a couple of dichlorobenzene isomers. Oh, and red dye and peppermint fragrance. The TCP might reduce lead deposits, but probably only if burned by adding it to the fuel. The dichlorobenzene is likely to dissolve carbon.

Ross, given the short time they seen to last, that might have been a design improvement.

It would be a good thing if we could legally install them ourselves. But, all require at least a logbook entry from an A&P and for some certified products (G3X for instance) Garmin only makes the software available to dealers. Most dealers charge about an hour of shop time to install the software, make the logbook entry and print and update the AFMS. If you have multiple pieces of equipment, and you want to keep them all updated, you might have to take it to the shop several times a year. When I managed an enterprise software group for a Fortune 500 company, we planned and scheduled our releases to minimize customer impact unless it was a patch for a critical bug fix.

If the problem is the chain and the chain is not broken but just came loose, you will need to adjust the tension after reinstalling it. Here is the procedure in the service manual:

If the trim position indicator moves when you turn the wheel, the chain and forward gearbox are working. You can easily check the chain by removing the plastic chain cover in the cockpit (three small Phillips screws). If the trim indicator moves with the wheel, then something is disconnected somewhere along the trim shaft. Installing a GFC 500 trim servo requires disconnecting the trim shaft and it’s possible something didn’t get back together correctly. If it’s not the chain or gearbox, check the integrity of all the u-joints along the shaft in the belly and tail. If you can find a problem and fix it, set the trim indicator to takeoff with the wheel and turn the trim shaft so that trim assist bungees hold the elevator in alignment with the stabilizer before connecting everything up.

O-ring is on the end of the plunger. Your mechanic should have a supply of o-rings. Nitrile or Fluorosilicone. Saf-Air is a better design.