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Everything posted by PT20J
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Green is Whelen A1280-3. @OSUAV8TER probably has them.
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Gear warning CB pops during gear actuation
PT20J replied to Thedude's topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
The Gear Warning CB powers the gear down floor light, the Gear Down and Gear Unsafe annunciator lights and the gear warning sonalert (tone generator in later models). So, the symptoms indicate some issue in this circuitry. The only part of the circuit that is active when the gear is moving but not active when the gear is either up or down is the Gear Unsafe annunciator. I would look for a short circuit somewhere in this circuit. -
You cannot order directly from Mooney. You have to order through a Mooney Service Center. They are listed here https://mooney.com/contact-2/
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I seem to recall that there was a company in Canada that was making them. Maybe someone else remembers the details. The problem with these fairings is that they get cracked because the gear doors are not shimmed properly. And the photo earlier in the thread showing a gap is not correct as that will create drag. The door should match the contour of the fairings and there should be some foam tape on the doors to cushion the contact points and seal the gap.
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Check around. There are probably lots of used ones for sale with all the panel upgrades. May be cheaper to buy a used one.
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Intake leaks cause noticeable roughness at idle and low power when the throttle plate is restricting airflow through the servo. Leaks don’t increase airflow much, if any, at WOT. If the engine is running smoothly it’s not a sticking valve. You can eliminate the injector nozzles by cleaning them. Since this happened after maintenance, I’d ask the shop what they did that might have caused this. But this only provides useful information if done soon after it leaves the shop. Memories fade. I always like to verify the instrumentation is accurate when I get an anomalous indication, especially if the engine is otherwise operating normally. I would swap CHT and EGT probes between cylinders 2 and 4 and see if the high temps stay with cylinder 2 or follow the probes. I might also check the condition of the probes and connections.
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Bevan also works on them.
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Retracting Flaps or Gear First - Video From Bonanza Society
PT20J replied to Lax291's topic in General Mooney Talk
This has always been my practice in every airplane I've flown -- get the airplane in the takeoff configuration first. I believe that NACA wind tunnel data shows that flap parasitic drag for a single slotted flap increases parabolically with deflection angle. So raising the flaps to the TO position will get rid of most of the flap drag. I also find it easier to manage the trim if I don't bring all the flaps up at once. Most of the time we have plenty of excess power available and climb performance is not highly dependent on technique. But perhaps technique might become more important at high density altitude with a normally aspirated engine. Presumably the flight test pilots took that into consideration when developing the POH. The first 15 degrees of flaps in my M20J don't have much drag and only reduce the level stall speed by 1 KCAS. The main effect is to provide a more nose down attitude. Full flaps reduce the level stall speed by 7 KCAS which is a greater reduction than most GA airplanes. So, full flaps in a Mooney are effective lift and drag producers. The flap drag can mask the gear drag at low speeds which is likely a contributing factor to pilots not noticing that the gear is not down during landing. It's easy to raise flaps to the TO position without looking at the flap position indicator in a plane with electric flaps that does not have the switch with the TO position: Just count "one thousand-one, one thousand-two..." while raising the flaps and stop when you get to the count you have determined raises them to the TO position. It'll be close enough. -
Throttle quadrant placards
PT20J replied to Mister_Bevilaqua's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Frank Crawford makes them at Mooney - order through a MSC. Paint shops usually have a way to make labels. If you are really a CB, just use a label maker. -
There are a lot of components to what we call an annual inspection. 1. Open up the airplane for inspection. 2. While it is open, clean the engine and do routine lubrication. 3. Inspection. 4. Make a squawk list. 5. Complete airworthy items on squawk list. 6. Compete or defer non-airworthiness items on squawk list. 7. Verify ADs and Service Bulletin compliance. 8. Close up airplane. 9. Perform post maintenance run up, maybe flight check. 10. Complete logbook entry and return to service. I do 1, 2, 8, 9 myself and usually 5 and 6 under supervision. It takes about a week. The actual inspection by the IA is only a few hours for which he charges me a flat fee. I keep the airplane up well, so there is seldom much in the way of squawks to fix.
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My ACK 406 is ten years old and works fine. I might call ACK for advice. The owner has been helpful in the past.
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I have tried a several. A lot depends on the type of soil. Claws work better in rocky soil than screws which work better in sandy soil.
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The nozzles shouldn't wear out, but there are a couple of stupid mechanic tricks that can screw them up. The first is using safety wire, a drill or some other object to clean them. That can bugger up or change the size of the orifice. The second is mixing up the inserts between the bodies. It's easy to test them. Just set up the baby bottle test and watch the spray patterns when fuel is flowing. It should be a stream about the size of a #2 pencil lead. If it is otherwise, then there is a problem. If it's a simple mix up of the parts, you can swap around inserts until they all have a coherent stream. According to Al Jesmer, that's how RSA assembles them at the factory. They just match parts until the stream is right.
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I notice the LASAR picture shows holes and LASAR gets them from GLAP so maybe the difference between the two GLAP part numbers is holes or no holes and the GLAP photo is wrong. You could call GLAP or I believe Gallagher is now a GLAP distributer and he may know.
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Maybe it’s not original. My 1978 J lens was retained by the metal trim which attached with screws, but there were no holes in the plastic except for the three drain holes. GLAP lists two cowl lenses depending on serial number, but the pictures for both show no holes. Anyone else have a cowl landing light lens with holes in the plastic?
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I ordered some of this from Amazon, but the stuff they sent is teflon, not ceramic (boron nitride).
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The landing light lens is polycarbonate and doesn’t crack as easily as acrylic. The lens on the cowl doesn’t have screw holes. If you have the wing landing lights, just don’t overtighten the screws.
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I’d clean the injector nozzles and run some gas through the system with the nozzles out to flush the lines. Might be worthwhile to do the wobble test on the valves.
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I believe Great Lakes Aero Products was the OEM. https://www.glapinc.com/Mooney/m20j.htm
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How many preflight inspections since this happened?
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The BN I used came from a friend who got a sample can somewhere and is white and powdery. I haven't used this product, but it looks interesting https://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product-page/dupont-non-stick
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The eyeballs are machined from Nylatron according to Frank Crawford. Even the new ones are not perfectly smooth due to the machine marks. Oil film attracts dirt that becomes embedded. I didn’t have much improvement in mine doing what @Fritz1 suggested, but it can’t hurt to try. It might be interesting to try spraying them with some boron nitride dry film spray. That stuff is really slippery.
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Why is it that every part of a Mooney seems like the first part they started adding other parts around to build the airplane?
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There is a mod for the dual mags to get all plugs to fire for starting. sim20-59a.pdf If you have separate mags you need to to have both mags able to retard the timing if you want them both to fire. Since the left mag has the impulse coupling, you would need to put the SureFly on the right mag. Pros: You get more plugs firing for maybe an easier start. However, the SureFly already puts out a hotter spark during starting and should start fine on one set of plugs. Cons: The impulse coupling adds some complexity to the mag that isn't really needed.
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Engineers always talk in terms of stability and control. The classic textbook is Perkins and Hage, Airplane Performance, Stability and Control.