PT20J

Maybe, but I’ve found that just cleaning them and leaving them alone works.

They get gummed up when people lube them and then dust gets in the lube. More lube might help for a while, but the real fix it to remove, disassemble and clean them.

I use a coffee stir stick.

Make sure the holes are clean. Sometimes carpet fibers get impacted and prevent the pins from setting all the way down.

Call him back. I just talked to Skylar and he found it -- apparently it was misplaced in his inventory.

I used to fly a 1968 M20C many years ago and never had a problem raising the gear from the left seat once I got the motion down so it would have momentum to get over center. A few years ago, I few in the right seat with a friend in his M20C and I had a lot of difficulty getting the gear up. Could be a difference in the airplanes. Maybe I've gotten weaker. Maybe my left arm is weaker than my right. Not sure. But I had to get the gear up immediately after takeoff at as low an airspeed as possible to raise it with my left arm. I'm pretty sure his airplane was rigged correctly because he was the most meticulous A&P/IA I've known. I'd be interested to know if others have found it more difficult to raise the gear from the right seat.

All the rod ends (aka Heim bearings) should be lubricated with a shot of Tri-Flow every so often.

I removed a 2" 880039-515 B&D tach with a 880053-501 tach generator from my 1994 28V M20J. Both are for sale at Skyman Avionics 541-604-9573. You could check with Frank Crawford at Mooney to see if he has any compatibility info. Worst case you could replace the tach and generator both with the ones from my airplane which worked fine when removed.

I don’t know about washers with ridges, but the “sleeve bushings” @cliffy refers to are spacer p/n 550017-005 listed in item 12 of the IPC page posted above. The IPC drawings are representational and do not always include small parts. There are 4 spacers: one goes on each side of the rod end on each gear door.

Just get DLC lifters and a new camshaft when you overhaul and forget about it.

Send me the two thousand bucks and I’ll see about it

Lycoming 4 cyl engines have 8 valves and 6 cam lobes, so two lobes actuate 2 lifters each. I wonder if those go out first?

Here’s a picture of what Byron’s talking about (view from the bottom with the oil pan removed. Dipstick hole is in the upper right corner).

I believe that there are FAA-required inspections and there are informal inspections. Inspections required by regulation (for part 91, annual and AD mandated inspections) are maintenance activities and require appropriate logbook entries. An informal inspection such as a pre-purchase inspection is merely a professional opinion of the condition of the aircraft. It is not maintenance and there is thus no requirement for a logbook entry.

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3

You should definitely swing the gear afterwards. I don’t see why some play in these rod ends should make the airplane unairworthy (which would be the only reason to “ground”it) but if your CFI really believes that he should refuse to fly it without obtaining a ferry permit. I would either obtain the parts and have your local A&P install them and swing the gear, or I would fly it to another shop. No need to get your CFI involved (and pay his fee) assuming you are current in the airplane. A lot of mechanics will not sign off the work of owners unless they know the mechanical abilities of the owner. It takes time to build up that level of trust.

I’d have done what you did. No reason to tear it down if it’s not making metal. I would use x/c victory oil and be especially careful about cold starts if I had a cam that was beginning to show signs of distress, but I’d just watch it until I found metal in the filter.

The coolie hat switch is used on the Cirrus because it controls aileron trim as well as elevator trim.

The engine monitor does not connect to the VR. The schematic in volume 2 of the Service Manual will detail the connections. There should be power, over voltage indication, field, remote sense, and ground.

Bruce’s makes a tailcone cover.

Since it seems repeatable, I would remove a spark plug from each cylinder and remove the rocker covers and compare the valve motion in all cylinders when rotated by hand.

FWIW, I have found a lot of errors in the dash numbers for vendor parts in Mooney IPCs. Mooney frequently seems to dispense with leading and trailing zeros and sometimes misplaces dashes

It’s probably a Cleveland part number. https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf

I bought some window trim from Bruce Jaegar. I ordered beige but he also had gray as I recall. It is different from the original. It is soft silicone rubber and I needed to glue it on the backside with some clear RTV, but I really like it because it doesn't get hard and shrink like the original. Bruce retired, but you could contact the company and see if they still have it available. https://www.jaegeraviation.com/home Another possibility if the Plane Plastics beading is a hard plastic would be to paint it with gray SEM Color Coat.

Looking at AWI's website, there are two M20 200 hp mufflers https://www.qaa.com/products/aircraft-exhaust-system/mooney/m-20-200-ball-rib https://www.qaa.com/products/aircraft-exhaust-system/mooney/m-20-200-slip-rib-m20j They have different tailpipes and different muffler part numbers because one uses ball joints on the risers and the M20J version has slip joints. If the ball joint riser muffler has a straight exit pipe, perhaps they made up the wrong part when they built yours.