David Lloyd

Every time I have wanted that kind of answer, I looked in the parts manual. Sometimes it is still difficult to figure out. It is sometimes helpful also in figuring out how some things are put together. I think your answer is yes. But I would still check the manual.

I bought an airplane before getting a private license as I would not have been able to do a short overnight business trip without the minimum per day charges. My plane was ready to go any day needed except when down for maintenance, an that was planned around in advance. Early into 40 years of ownership I found a huge benefit to me was knowing who flew my airplane last and if anything was not working as it should. Every now and then, a surprise would happen on startup: a vacuum pump would fail, or an alternator, once a door handle SB bulletin was complied and had me locked in the plane at 5:30 in the morning. Those things would stop the flight of a club airplane also.

Audio panels are labor intensive to install, you will pay more for labor than a top of the line audio panel. The new stuff is all so good with the built in intercom plus other features, you will wonder why you put it off so long. You won't go wrong with the PMA450B.

Don, Train hard under tough conditions. It'll make the real thing seem easy. Night hood work is absolutely the worst! Glad your disaster has worked out okay and is now behind you.

Any radio shop can run a single wire an put a push to talk button (or more than one) where you want. I have one on the co-pilot side as there is no provision for one in the yoke.

Is that even a real prop gov bracket? Looks more like an aileron rib. I would have expected the bracket to be steel, not aluminum. Looked in the parts manual, the part is similar but not the same. No matter, you need a new one.

The 1965 models had a blind turn coordinator for the PC autopilot. The roll trim was a silver knob mounted at the center of the pilot yoke. With the later model yokes in this plane, they couldn't do that so it may have been mounted to the panel. A short test flight, does the PC work? Does that knob control the roll trim? A 55 year old modified airplane, some of the paperwork is going to be missing. It is not a perfect world.

I went through something similar several years back. As long as everything is correct, your insurance company will pay for most. Not all, most. Prop; the shop I dealt with said if more than one blade is required, the hub is probably toast. $10-12k for a new one. Wait, insurance will base the payout on overhaul status of your existing prop. They won't just buy you a new prop unless you had a new prop. The engine has a AD requiring inspection of some parts in the accessory case. Many engine shops won't do the AD inspection unless they also do the Lycoming SB that involves teardown of the engine, inspection of rotating parts, replacement of many items including magnetos. My insurance company did pay to have that teardown done. Iff they find other things, like pitted tappets, you will be on the hook for that stuff. Overhaul/tbo status comes into play with the engine also. Insurance bought me one new blade, and 40% of the prop overhaul. I paid 60% of the prop overhaul. Insurance paid for engine inspection, mandatory replacement item like bearings, seals, gaskets and the magnetos plus transport to and from the engine and prop shops. I paid for a cam regrind and 8 new tappets. Insurance paid for a local A&P to repair and repaint some sheet metal. The insurance paid me about 1/2 the rate an A&P would have charged to remove the prop and engine and replace after repairs (this was on an RV I built). When all was said and done, the bill was only about $25k. Of that, I paid about $3500 out of pocket. When I understood how the insurance would pay for certain things but not everything, I was very satisfied. I thought it was all fair as could be. Insurance will want a copy of the last few pages of your log books, pilot and airplane. They want to see the last flight review entry, your medical, etc. Nothing was really unexpected, they were thorough. Best be prepared before and incident.

May 10, mine went up by about 40%. See the other thread mentioned. I think some of us enjoyed very low rates for years and now that is catching up with us.

Can't answer your question about the upgrade. However; a 60-2, I think, has the same absolute pressure transducer and maybe servos. Mine holds altitude within feet most of the time. A bumpy day may see 50' up or down. Very much satisfied with the altitude control. You might want to spend some money investigating the porporsing problem before upgrading. On mine, the altitude control, heading holc, glideslope capture and glideslope track are all perfect or near so. Nav tracking, is a zig and zag affair to capture, once captured it is slow to correct. Once on approach, if I flew this way, I wouldn't ride with me. Any reccomendations on a shop that really knows S-tec?

Years ago I had a new windshield installed in a Bonanza by Jim Klug of Beryl D'Shannon. Jim said at the time he had installed hundreds of windshields. He began the process by drilling the frame screws around the 1/4" thick windshield and the told me I may not want to watch. He took a large ball peen hammer and the third hard whack the windshield cracked. several more hits worked the crack to the frame in each direction and then another crack. He then go some big channel lock pliers in between two edge and started breaking pieces out. The windshield was out in a couple minutes. I can't imagine anyone being able to break or kick out a window fastened in place with screws and nuts.

If the hangar rent went up 1.9% because the 2019 CPI went up 1.9%, ask if the hangar rent will decline next year on the same basis. Or will there be some other bs reason?

Someone did that while searching for a problem. Left in that condition, the did not find it. Are the correct mags on the engine? If so, get some knowledgeable, licensed (2 different things) help and put the wiring the way it is supposed to be. Might even be easier to run some new wires. I am surprised you are able to start it if it really is trying to start at 25 BTDC. In the meanwhile, sounds like the mag may be hot, treat the prop accordingly.

When a cylinder is leaking like that the hissing air is obvious. You will hear it coming from the crankcase (breather or oil fill) if it is the rings. Exhaust pipe if an exhaust valve or the intake if an intake valve. Gives a big head start on where to look.

Muscle memory story: In 1964 my father bought a Ford with an automatic transmission. My sister had never driven an automatic. Of course, everything went smoothly until almost stopped at the first stop sign. Brakes suddenly locked as she pushed in the clutch with her left foot. Next stop, same. Next stop there was a lot of yelling in the front seat as the same thing happened despite death threats. Later in the day, my mother did a replay.

The difference in drive pad ratio would account for an RPM difference of 2650 versus 2700 (.850/.866*2700=2650) I had a similar problem when I bought a gov for my RV that had a narrow deck engine versus a wide deck engine. In that case there was enough adjustment to bring the revs up to 2700. I thought it was a matter of setup at the certified repair station.

The Dynon HDX user guide is only 259 action packed pages. Enough to put you to sleep every night for a year. Oh, that is a beautiful panel.

The shop at my airport has had the bottom third of a 55 gallon drum on casters, filled with wing bolts (someone told me B-25) for 41 years. Airport is closing, mechanic was taking everything with him, tried to lift it with an engine hoist. Just about the time it began to lift off the floor, the metal rod and hook pulled through the bottom of the drum. Good thing it didn't happen during any of my annual inspections!

Anthony is correct. Was the prop gov already adjusted and you are not saying so? Is there some reason it has not been adjusted? Still looks like the cause of your issue to me.

In 1984 we were getting vectors (such as it was at the time) around weather and flew into an embedded thunderstorm near San Angelo. Shook us like rocks in a tin can. Wife said we weren't doing that again. Next week we bought a Stormscope.

Either way, when you select another approach the first will be replaced as it will only allow one approach to be entered. So many great things about these navigators, yet the pilot guide book lacks the information to use it.

Same caps on my 75 C with bladders.

Last year I was facing some of the same decisions. I would have rather pulled everything form the panel, installed an Avidyne 540, PAR200B audio/com and a complete Dynon panel including autopilot (several hundred hours with Dynon in an RV). Two problems: Dynon autopilot is not approved yet and it would cost a bit over $40k not including the autopilot, another $5-7k installed. I considered doing everything no and the autopilot later. I've got several thousand hours without and autopilot and never considered it a big deal until using the Dynon in the RV. Having a nice autopilot is nice, a luxury. I've got the money, but at 69 and tight with money, well, didn't quite see all that happening. Wound up keeping the S-tec 60-2 autopilot, KX-165 and had a GTX375 and PAR200B installed. Two navs, two coms, ADSB transponder in and out. The 375 is big enough to enter a flight plan and do what you want. If you want something bigger to look at, get an iPad. A 650 is only marginally larger than the 375. To get a screen that will be much easier to see, get a 750. It's only money. The PAR200B, transmits and receives just like it should. As an intercom, it is much better than the Garmin 240 audio panel in my RV. Set the volume and forget about it. The 240 required fiddling with the adjustments even with changes in power settings. Right now I am considering two G5s. Get rid of the vacuum pump and horizon before one of them croaks. Get rid of the King HSI before it croaks. Two repairs last year, the next repair I expect to be expensive. A side benefit to the G5s is GPSS included. Right now the S-tec tracks the nav okay. Turns are troublesome, it overshoots and then weaves around quite a bit before settling down. I have been told GPSS will make it track as if on a rail. At some point, I need do do something about an engine monitor. Right now it has a fuel computer and four probe but only the singe probe CHT. The amp gauge is inop. As is the OAT. A JPI 900 will fix all that. Hmm, by the time all that is done, Plan A would have been about the same money by the time I sold leftover radios, S-tec, etc. And I would have what I wanted to begin with.

Repair. About 5000 hours with a WX8 (that everyone shames), even with todays ADSB weather, I think the Stormscope is indispensable for cross country flying. Too many times over the years I had controllers turn me toward stuff that lit up my scope, away from stuff that showed nothing on my scope or had no advice. Now I have another Mooney with a WX8. Recently, having some new radios installed, and a lot of old stuff coming out, the shop asked if I wanted the WX8 removed. Nope, works better for what it was designed than what you're putting in.

Dagnabit! Just getting my Dynonitis under control when you show up with another video! I got an S-Tec, where did you hear the S-Tec servos would work?