skydvrboy

Are you crazy? Do you know how many people die from heart disease due to lack of exercise? Now get off that couch!

Just to make sure you are still referring to the inner gear doors. Removing the cabin door WILL have an effect on speed and is NOT necessary for landing on grass!

I made that same mistake going into Madison, WI and got the same answer, apparently with the same confused tone. I just replied, “Uh, guess I’ll come in VFR then.” That made me look up what SVFR really means and when to use it. Basically, the field has to be below VFR minimums. For instance, when I was about, 5 minutes late getting out on morning, the cloud base was 900’ broken, but the edge was only a few miles away. Skies were clear the rest of the way. Called up and requested SVFR and was on my way.

You should try it in your cannula. It'd add 1500 ft/min to your climb rate. You will be amazed how fast you get high!

I haven't seen that before, but I had a flight through the barren wastelands of eastern Colorado where FlightAware showed my airspeed as 0 kt for a couple minutes. I figured it was a byproduct of poor radar coverage or something like that and didn't give it a second thought. Fortunately during that duration of 0 kt flying, I didn't lose any altitude. Who knew the Mooney could hover?

Like Shadrach, I've cycled my prop sub 1000 RPM's and it cycled just fine. I have noticed first flight of the day when it's cold it takes a few seconds from when I pull the lever to when the prop actually moves. I thought this was normal and perhaps it is (if not, someone let me know). I know I'm a low time pilot, but I always thought the prop check was a go, no-go test. If it didn't cycle for me on the ground, I'd have no way of knowing whether or not it would cycle in the air... 'cause I ain't goin' there. I'm not saying that's the right decision for anyone else and maybe as I gain more experience, knowledge, and familiarity with the plane that might change, but that is what my instructors have all taught. Of course they also taught that the flap check was a go, no-go test and now I fly formation without using (or even checking) the flaps.

‘67 F, WOT, power boost, 25 LOP, 2500 RPM. 201 windshield, cowl closure, relocated oil cooler, rotated brakes, gap seals, fairings, all done before I bought it. My first post on MS was due to concern by my flight instructor that I wasn’t burning enough fuel and had some kind of problem with the engine. I was burning 8.0 gph block time, but part of that was due to some bad advice I got about leaning on climb.

When I bought my Mooney, the exhaust baffles were burned out and everything needed replaced from the exhaust manifold back. I used https://knisleyexhaust.com/. They "repaired" my existing exhaust, but it appears all brand new. Another option that I didn't know about at the time was power flow. A bit pricey, but supposed to give you some extra HP.

Not sure about the specs for your 182, or any 182 for that matter, but here are the real world specs for my F. Cruise = 145 kts TAS @ 8.5 gph - Others are faster. Useful load = 1067 lbs. (fuel tanks 64 gal.) - That gives me 6.5 hrs with 1 hr reserve or 942 km range.

No doubt, to be more precise, I believe it is a hinge issue. Probably from someone using the door to bear their weight getting out, repeatedly slamming it, or the wind catching it and springing the hinge. From the outside you can see the top is very slightly out. I think a 1/2” gasket instead of the 1/4” would solve the gap issue. Adjusting the top latch may also work. To fix it back to factory would most likely involve a 2x4 and a big hammer, but I don’t want to go with something that drastic.

We've been trying to figure this out on my F as well. It's not as bad as the OP, but in-flight, I've got a 1/8" to 1/4" gap at the upper rear of the door. It's just enough to suck my wife's air outside. When I shut and latch it, I can see the top being pulled in, so I know the latch is engaging the pin. My A&P thought we could just adjust the pin, but there is no adjustment there. I was thinking about adding a second weatherstrip to the frame of the plane to close up the gap, but if it can be adjusted through the latch in the door, that may be a better option.

Mine is bent exactly as you describe, but still ended up on my butt a few days ago. Then I read the duct tape solution thread and it locks in tight now. YMMV

As of today (4/26/19), this was the cheapest site I found for oil. Free shipping over $75. https://aviationoiloutlet.com/

This was just discussed recently on here. Put a wrap of duct tape on the tow bar, simple, yet very effective. If you are more inclined to spend substantially more time and effort on this for a very elegant solution, look up DonMuncy's profile pics.

That's why I got mine the week before I turned 40.

I don't really understand these comments. My kids started building and "programming" Raspberry Pi's in the second grade at school. They really are THAT simple. You don't need an "IT pro" in the house, you don't need to be "handy" and you certainly don't need to pay someone else $50 - $100 to do it for you. The extent of this "build project" is plugging in a few USB's and connectors. Then download the program to the SD card and put it in the slot. The only word of caution that is warranted... use only the parts specified. The Raspberry Pi is very sensitive to power input. I tried to use a power cord that we had laying around the house and it caused all kinds of weird stuff to happen. When I switched the power cord back, everything worked fine again.

IMHO, the owner upgraded all the wrong stuff. Perhaps an owner who never flew, or maybe someone who hired pilots to fly him around. Why on earth would you put a beautiful paint job on it before closing up the cowl or the doing the 201 mod? One makes you go faster, the other makes you go "ooh, pretty!" Why would you spend all that money on a great interior and fly behind the mixed up instruments, a JPI 700, and the original fuel and temp gauges?

There is a 67 F POH here that I reference all the time: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/23ji46lpzilo0xc/AABYnFYl98P89SV9gYMsA6N5a

Quick followup on what I found. It looks like the some insulation and fibers. It could have been a mouse nest, but there were no mouse droppings. I opened up all the inspection plates around this area and found nothing in any of the other compartments. The only way to access this area is through the nav light holes, so I made a make-shift vacuum cleaner hose by duct taping a section of garden hose onto the vacuum hose. I was able to get it all out except for a small amount on the back side of a 3/4" rib. I went to several stores around town, but couldn't find Corrosion-X, so once it was cleaned the best I could, I sprayed it with this stuff. If anyone takes off their nav light for any reason, inspect this area. It would NEVER be found through an annual inspection, PPI, etc.

OK, I see your point and I'm man enough to admit I was wrong. I went to the plane today to see about pulling a wire to run my strobe. There were about a dozen zip ties in the tail before the wire entered the belly area. I knew if there was even one more zip tie after that point, pulling the wire would be more work than I wanted to get into, removing inspection plates, belly panels, etc. just to find all the zip ties. Taking even one inspection plate off and replacing it takes me more than 15 minutes. Since I already had a strobe wire bundle for the Whelen, I just used one of the existing wires to run the power to the strobe. In the end, I'll end up with the same result, both strobes come on with the strobe switch. One interesting side note, the SkyBeacon strobe will only work when the Nav light is powered. If I for some reason turn on the strobe without the Nav lights, only my right strobe will work (though I don't know when I'd ever do that intentionally). i still think it would be a royal pain to use the app to turn off/on the strobe light. But, if you're OK with the strobe being on all the time, powering it off the Nav light is a simple solution.

It sounds like his skills are top notch. He proved that by flying and landing in a thunderstorm, something most pilots would not survive. But this reminds me of the quote hanging in the local FBO: "The superior pilot uses his superior judgement to avoid situations that require him to demonstrate his superior skill."

That cartoon describes him pretty well. He wants to be a nuclear engineer, almost immediately understands mechanical, electrical, and computer stuff, and is completely inept in social situations. He might get a lot of that from his engineer father, especially the social aspect.

You sound just like my teenage boy. I'm often amazed at the trouble he will go through to avoid a minor amount of work. Really, how hard is it to pull a wire? You tie a string on the wire that is there now, pull it back out of the wing, tie on the new wire, and pull them both back into the wing. Once you've figured out where the wire needs to go, your looking at a 15 minute job. Working with my dad, who was an electrician, I've pulled new wire through an entire house in less than 4 hours. I've got to hand it to him though, sometimes he comes up with some really elaborate and creative solutions to a simple problem. One Saturday, he spent the whole day designing and building an automatic chicken watering system, so he wouldn't have to carry a bucket of water out to the chicken house each day.

Agreed, but don't forget, this area can not be viewed through any inspection panel. It is on the very tip of the wing and is only visible/accessible through the nav light hole. I took off the four outermost inspection panels and there was nothing like this in any of those compartments. Kind of makes me wonder how long it's been there. When I get it out, I'll report back on what it is (assuming I can figure that out once it's removed). I'll also spray some corrosion-X in there and try to get it covered well. My other wing had a bucking bar in it from the previous wing repair. I let the mechanic keep it for his tool set.

It definitely won’t be easy to get to. There isn’t an inspection panel in that section. I’ll rig up a small hose duct taped to a vacuum cleaner and suck it out through the nav light hole.