skydvrboy

I think I may have figured it out when looking at a picture of the face plate. I'm guessing the SPCH button means specify channel. I think if I press that one it will get me into the edit mode. Then I will need to either press the arrow button or the next up button to go to the next frequency. There are only 3 buttons total so it can't be too hard. Pressing next just brings up the next preset frequency, while pressing the arrow just swaps the active and standby frequency.

There is a Mac 1700 Nav/Comm that was in my plane when I got it. I haven't been able to find a user manual either online or in the paperwork that came with the plane. It has the ability to store up to 10 frequencies in each the nav and comm sides of the radio. The problem is, I have no idea how to program those frequencies. Anyone have one of these or know how to program the frequencies? I'm doing some other fiddlin' with the plane tonight, so if I don't get an answer by then I'll try pushing buttons and see if I can stumble into it.

I was thinking of redundancy as the ability to cross check one instrument to the other, but I see your point. If the primary fails, you're done flying when you land. As a budget conscious pilot (CB), it would be tough to spring for the 900 as it's over 10% of the cost of the plane. However, I wonder how many gauge overhauls it would take to pay for that. I already don't trust my fuel gauges at all as one bounces around and both read 3/4 when I fill the tanks. I certainly don't want to save a few bucks on the engine monitor only to spend that on maintenance when i could have had the nicer monitor all along. Is the smaller G2 easy to read in the plane? Most of the pictures I find online make it look difficult to read the numbers, but that may just be due to crappy pictures.

According to my 13 year old daughter it is 3.141592653589793. Yeah, 22/7 is close enough for me!

I see several of you have recommended the G2 over the JPI 830. Can you explain why? It is a bit cheaper, but it also doesn't include RPM, MP, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, EGT variation, & HP. As I understand it, the JPI doesn't replace any of these primary gauges, but I like the idea of having the redundancy. Also the JPI screen is larger, thus I would think it would be easier to read. As i have zero experience with either one, please educate me.

I really like the clip on mine because it allows for a lot of options. So far, I've clipped it to the passenger seat belt, my flight bag in right seat, the door handle strap (I thought that was creative) and myself. It was designed to be worn on your body, so clipping it to your clothing is an option too. You won't be able to scan for it, but you will definitely feel the vibrations when it alarms. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

The Kiddie CO monitor is a great option for your home, but I wouldn't rely on it in my plane. It will not alert you to a problem until it is an emergency. CO levels that are less than 30 PPM will not even show up on the display. Further, with CO levels around 70 PPM it will take 1-4 hours before the unit will alarm. Below are the pertinent sections of the Kiddie owners manual. By contrast, the Sensorcon unit displays CO levels as low as 1 PPM and alarms instantly when the alarm level is reached. Accuracy of Digital Display: (Model KN-COPP-B-LPM Only) 30-999 PPM +/-30% when measured in conditions of 80° F (+/- 10° F), atmospheric pressure +/- 10% and 40% +/- 3% relative humidity. Display readings may vary slightly depending on changes in the ambient condition (temperature, humidity) and the condition of the sensor. Alarm Response Times: 70 PPM = 60-240 min., 150 PPM = 10-50 min., 400 PPM = 4-15 min. Your plane, your life, you get to decide the level of risk you are willing to take. I'll stick with my Sensorcon detector.

I would love to know how to hold a mechanic accountable for his PPI. I had one done and then had a different mechanic do the annual just 2 weeks later after the purchase was completed (3 hrs flown). PPI missed loose engine mounts that all needed replaced, bad fuel servo that was missing a nozzle, and the exhaust baffles burned out. In all, my first annual was $9 AMU's. I was steamed, but just vowed never to use that mechanic again. If there is any recourse available, I'd sure like to know about it.

As a new KS Mooney flier... I'm getting this on my calendar. Never done any formation flying, but have always thought it would be fun to learn... and to find a Mooney specific clinic only 30 minutes away by Mooney!

I bought the replacement lights from https://www.aero-lites.com/ge-330-12v-post-light-replacement to replace all of my post lights. They claim they are "FULLY DIMMABLE" and they will dim a little, but are VERY bright even at their lowest setting. The guy there is great to work with as one of my LED's was DOA when I installed it. He sent me 3 replacement bulbs in case I had any others go out, so I used the extra two in my gear indicator lights.

... and most of all. CONGRATS ON PASSING YOUR CHECK RIDE!!!

Update... My Sensorcon showed up yesterday so I went flying today. Taxi readings got to 10 ppm, takeoff went up to 22 ppm, cruise dropped down to 8. I turned on the heater and it dropped to 4 ppm, so that was providing fresh air. Cruised around for 45 minutes with no change. Then, on final I noticed it alarming so I hit the max button so I could focus on landing and check it later. It topped out at 46 ppm. All of this is with a brand new exhaust system installed in November. None of the readings put me in any kind of danger zone, but it would be nice to find out where it's getting in the plane. Any ideas? One thing for sure, now that I have the monitor, I won't fly again without it!

I'm ordering one of these today. Wife and I went flying last night and after a 30 minute flight both had headaches. Cabin heat was off and all vents were closed. I have a brand new complete exhaust system on the plane, so I wouldn't think CO would be an issue, but that is WAY too big of a coincidence to risk another flight without a CO detector. FYI... the discount code airplane2017 still works, 20% off.

Not trying to resurrect an old thread, just wanted to note that when I went to the junkyard for headsets, every Toyota or Mazda I found had the correct headrests. You are looking for 3/8" posts on 6" centers.

To your original question, my Mooney is set up very similar to yours with just about every speed mod available. I have flown 105 kts in climb, 140 kts in cruise, and 160 kts in descent. But the point is none of that matters if you don't discuss rate of climb, rate of descent, manifold pressure (or altitude), and mix settings (or fuel flow). Could I have flown faster... Sure. Could I have flown slower... Absolutely. My last 5 hours I have been cruising at 105 kts, because we were looking at Christmas lights and burning 6.7 gph total. Since the original question has been answered, I'll continue the hijacking and the more important questions of how you run the engine to get comparable numbers. So, do you guys calculate fuel burn based on tach hour or Hobbs hour (actual time)? I have been using actual time flown, but my AI says it should be calculated from tach hours to reduce variability.

I don't know, no numbers on the EGT gauge, but it was 7 marks below the * which is pretty close to where it normally peaks. I can't wait to take a long enough trip to try some of this out and get an accurate fuel burn number. Plan is to get to cruise, switch to full tank for an hour, then switch back. When I refill that tank, I should know my fuel burn for that altitude/RPM/MP setting. I'll report back and let you all know what I'm getting.

I'm going to break up your spat with an update. I went flying today, but not long enough to get a reasonable fuel burn number for cruise. Density altitude was conveniently reported as 0 on the AWOS, so I shoved all the knobs forward and set the adjustable line on my EGT. That should be Target EGT correct? I take it that line still be good (or close enough) regardless of the outside air temps for future flights? Just for kicks and grins, when cruising I started leaning out the engine slowly to see when it would start running rough. It didn't start getting rough until I was 100-125 LOP. There was a noticeable decrease in power long before that, but no roughness. On descent, do you enrich the mixture or just leave it until reaching TPA? I don't need the extra HP and the engine will only get cooler as it gets leaner the further I descend.

Last thing for today. To find my target EGT, can I go out on a cold day when the density altitude is sea level? Then all knobs forward and read EGT, correct?

I have oil temp, CHT, and EGT. No numbers on EGT, just the * and 25 degree marks. I climb at 120 to 130 mph and CHT always stays well in the green. On the tank that averaged 8.05 GPH, I flew a 1.5 hr leg at 11,500’, two 1 hr legs at 7,500’, and a 1 hr leg at 4,500. All legs were full throttle except the 4,500 leg at 22” MP. All cruise was at 50 ROP except 4,500 which was 100 ROP. I’ll try these suggestions and report back my cruise burn per my OP after I fly again. Thanks guys.

Thanks for your help. I'll print that red cone chart and take it with me next time I go flying. I'm not really concerned with economy at this point, I have economy, maybe too much economy! I'm most concerned with not damaging my engine. One question though, how do you determine target EGT if you don't ever fly out of sea level airports?

I found the article where I got 100 ROP, and I have always waited until over 3000' to start leaning. http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/powersettings.html I certainly notice the increase in RPM and power when I start leaning during the climb.

I got the 125 ROP from 100 ROP being best power and trying to go a little more on the rich side. My '67 model owners manual is in the plane at the moment, but the plane came with (only) the '68 model owners manual. That shows cruising at 5000', 2500 RPM, 22" MP, leaned to 100 ROP, I should be burning 10.2 GPH and going 160-163 mph. That is the speed I'm getting, but I'm not burning anywhere near that much fuel. I don't have anything that shows fuel flow, just taking the total gallons to fill the plane divided by the hours flown. So all phases of flight and ground ops are included. Next time I take a longer trip I will have a full tank in one wing, switch to it after I get set at cruise, and then run it for an hour. That will give me a better cruise burn. I will find and study Target EGT.

First post of a new Mooney owner. Don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a similar question that I haven't found an answer for. My M20F was built in '66, but has a '67 SN, so I'm not sure if it has the twisted wing. I've only flown it 25 hours and only a few flights over 1 hr, but my fuel burn seems too low. My first hour fuel burn (startup, taxi, runup, takeoff, climb to 6500', cruise) was only 11.1 gallons. That was with throttle full forward, prop at 2700 for climb, 2500 for cruise, mix 125 ROP for climb, and 50 ROP for cruise. My first full tank averaged 8.8 GPH for all phases of flight and my second was a whopping 8.045 GPH. I have been throttling back to 22" MP when below 5000' for cruise or descent, but otherwise, throttle wide open and most of my flying was 7500' and up. Is this normal? My flight instructor is concerned with the low fuel burn that I may be running too lean and could damage the engine. My TAS has been around 165 mph at '9000 give or take a bit and the plane has lot's of speed mods (cowling, windshield, flap gap, aileron gap, wing root leading & trailing, tail faring, brakes rotated, and more). The rigging is a bit out, but based on all the comments, it seems I should get a bit more speed, but also burn more fuel. Should I be worried? Thanks for the help.