Drumstick

If this plane had been available 6 months ago...or if I could sell my M20C for what I paid for it...I would be all over this plane like a fat kid on a donut. No offense to fat kids or donuts intended.

Who has this? Is it IO-360 specific or does the STC also work on an O-360?

Price?

I got a email from them last week that they have a waiting list for customers in need of the step servo. $180'overhaul cost.

Not yet.

I have not heard of pairing a portable ADS-B "in" with an installed ADS-B "out". Your KT74 should be configured to tell the ground stations to transmit a TIS-B traffic "hockey puck" but there is nothing that needs to be done between your stratux and KT74 as far as I know. I built my own stratux and it works great - I'm not ADS-B out compliant yet... http://ipadpilotnews.com/2016/01/ads-b-traffic-101-2/

I'm trying to get replacement carpet for my M20C and at this time just trying to build up a list of vendors. I'm familiar with AIRTEX but have heard mixed reports on quality. Plane Plastics was recommended but doesn't offer kits for my year. SCS seems pricey but I haven't heard anything bad. Any others?

Just did these on my 65 M20C. Its a two person job and typically takes 2-3 hours. I provided labor to assist my mechanic and was there a full day working on various gripes and he charged me 1/2 day of labor. You might want to consider waiting until the cowl mod is done as shimming the motor afterward may be required and probably easier to do at the same time.

Straight from Brittain: Thank you for contacting us in regards to your Mooney retractable step servo. We currently have a backlog on repair/replacement of the servo due to a tooling issue on that piece of rubber. We are very close to resolution of the problem and would ask for your patience while we work it out. I have added our name to our backlog and as soon as we have acceptable articles from our vendor I will get in touch with you and have you send your step servo over for repair as needed. We estimate this cost around $180.00 and hope to have this tooling issue resolved by months end. If we may be of assistance to you in the meantime please don’t hesitate to contact us again. Best regards, Cecilia Henderson Manager, BRITTAIN INDUSTRIES, INC. (918)836-7701

Thanks! Anyone have a source for replacement parts?

Does anyone know if Brittain has bellows for a 1965 M20C retractable step. I read a few threads that are a couple years old that mentioned they were having problems with that particular part. I noticed today that I did not hear the unmistakeable "thunk" when I shut my motor off. Investigation revealed a 2-3 inch split on the bottom of the bellows by the pulley wheel. I did a quick repair with 3M electrical tape but it doesn't appear to be working and I can't find a volunteer to stick their head out the baggage door while flying to check on the step... I'll call Brittain on Monday but often times Mooneyspace can get the answer a bit faster...

I had a 149-HT and the case was found broken during annual. It was replaced with a 149-NL. The NL is prettier but the HT spins the prop faster. Hopefully the new one will last longer than 4 years. The HT was operating just fine even though broken and was installed 4 years prior to my buying the plane.

Not even close to a fighter but definitely more challenging than a 172! In many ways, the modern fighters are actually easier to fly because of all the control augmentation. They have to be made easy to fly so the pilot can manage the weapon systems. I find managing an engine with a fixed pitch prop, throttle and mixture much more tedious than any turbine aircraft I have ever flown.

She will descend or slow down but not both at the same time.

If the keys are missing - what about the logbooks? Think long and hard about aircraft ownership unless you have disposable income and lots of it. So calculate your expected costs and then double them! Define your mission and requirements. If you are sinking money into a non-flying plane then you are spending money and not actually doing any flying - meanwhile spending money to insure it and just do preventative maintenance - not restorative work! Once it starts flying - the money to restore will decrease as its more fun to fly than work on a plane! Second thought - you will have a major financial liability on your hands. A non flying plane is very very very hard to sell unless its dirt cheap. My bank won't even consider a loan unless the aircraft passes a PPI and has a current annual and registered. Finding a lender may be hard so you might have to buy this airplane with cash. You will also need CASH to pay the taxes on the purchase...that is unavoidable and you can't finance that part like you can on a car. Expect a 20% down payment plus an additional 7-10% for taxes. Include 1-2K for PPI. Additionally 3-5K minimum just to address all the rubber items on the aircraft that will have dry rotted and need replaced. All this and you may get to first flight - IF the motor checks out. I would not expect to fly it more than 100 hrs after that before it starts making metal. Bottom line - an aircraft is a luxury item. I waited 23 years and even though I can "afford" a Bravo or 252 - I settled with an M20C because it fit my financial risk tolerance. I don't know your financial situation but unless you have fully funded plan in place to retire at 55-60 - I would skip buying at this time. There will be other Mooneys to be had. I'll admit that I'm being the negative nancy...but I've been in the business of trying to keep young people from making stupid mistakes for a long time...

I MIGHT be able to help. I'm based in SoMD - you can drop me off and solo in to your home field. I have to be back on 31 July as that is the day my M20C is being dropped off for its annual.

Just FYI - my new lord mounts did not come with shims.

I just reviewed my FF data from the last years flights. I peak at 18-19GPH on takeoff roll at sea level. FF tapers off during climbout and looks to avg around 16 GPH in a climb to 10K. My FF meter is spot on. I have never flown 25^2 at 2500 feet so I can't pull any of my FF data to compare. I have no idea how to fix your FF issue but just offering my own data to help - not sure if mine is correct either but it seems to be working without roughness.

I thought fuel flow at takeoff should be around 18ish GPH? (sea level - standardish kinda day)

Anyone have experience with the ATX100G? I have a non-WAAS 430 and KT76C. How does the ATX100G integrate to provide an ADS B solution?

Hoses and fire sleeve are being replaced with 124J "brown" Teflon....I had the same question about the firesleeve though...

Fuel Flows are stable and seem spot on. If the Shadin says I have burned 16.x gallons I usually see 16.x gallons on the 100LL pump. I think I will leave it alone other than to replace the hoses. If its funny after the hoses go on...this will be the first place I start to look. FF transducer was installed 10 years ago by previous owner. However - this brings up and interesting question. The Insight G2 has a FF indication and the Shadin also shows FF. The FFs sometime do not exactly match. I wonder if there is ANOTHER transducer in this airplane somewhere...might it be on the other side of the firewall?

There was a little yellow stain adjacent to the fitting on the opposite pipe. It wiped off - no biggee... I'll have A&P look at that fitting at annual. Makes sense to me! Thanks!

I have started to question anything done on my airplane and since I can't get to my mechanic on a day to day basis - I turn to the mooneyspacers for info. Today's questions: 1965 M20C Oil Cooler. The fittings are facing inboard...is this correct or should they be on the outboard side? 2nd question: The aircraft has a fuel flow transducer installed between the fuel pump and the carb. The fuel line has has a 360 degree loop when it looks like the hose could have run directly from the transducer to the carb. Is it more proper to have the big loop or should I have a hose made that runs directly from the FF transducer? Lastly - is that an indication of an exhaust leak at the muffler? - (its a minor leak at the junction of the adjacent fitting) Bottom line - None of the hoses have manufacture dates, test dates or other info on them or any data plates so they are going to be replaced before annual because they could be from 1965...or who knows when.