Drumstick

I’m ready to sell now. Just not available to show the plane and my schedule hasn’t allowed the time to fly it to a broker.

I’ll send you a quick note on specs. I don’t want this thread to turn into a for sale posting.

I've spoken with Jimmy and he will likely be helping me out after he returns from vacation. I was just curious to see if people had personal experiences and how much time it takes to go through the process without a broker.

I am moving from the east coast to Colorado, taking a new job and will be selling my nicely equipped 1965 M20C. I have a question for those that have sold planes. Going with a broker - do you just drop the plane off and then only deal with the agent? AKA - does the broker deal with all the tire kickers? How does the paperwork get handled if the title is held by a bank? For those that have sold their planes using this site, barnstormers or Facebook, how much time did it take to deal with inquiries etc? The broker fee represents nearly 10% of my likely asking price and I was just wondering if the effort and aggravation of selling the plane myself is worth that fee. I will be very busy during the next 6 months and am concerned that potential buyers will see me as flakey if I can’t respond to inquiries within a day. I will also not be local and therefore unable to show the plane conveniently.

I "no kidding" made the same mistake this week and had to do a google search to figure out what I did wrong. I followed this link the 2nd time - filled in the same info and got the GAIRS report. https://adsbrebate.faa.gov/PAPRRequest.aspx If it is just an IT issue...hopefully you won't have to wait for govt funding...

You need to request the report via the rebate site and not the public report site. Form is the same but it’s the only way to get the rebate incentive. I made the same mistake. Edited to add that I did t read your 2nd post.

If there airplane has been sitting - anything and everything on it is subject to needing replacement. STEC autopilots are notoriously expensive to have repaired. If you go forward with a pre-buy - make sure it is not just for the high dollar airworthiness items but verifies the operational condition of things like the nav/comm and the autopilot. I don't know how much individual servos cost...but they are in the thousands... Having watched a friend recently go through the process of buying a "barn find" - it hasn't been cheap. Trade a plane isn't working for me either but if you follow this site...the popular opinion on this sites is that the top price for a C model....should be around 50,000. More than that and you are competing against E and F models. You could easily sink 100K into a C model...but most people shopping for that particular model are doing so on a lower budget. Why make a C model compete against a J?

Its on the top of page 20 of the User and Installation manual. Step #5.

TSO Installation Manual Intallation and User Guide So the difference between the manuals is that one suggests that the mounting screws is sufficient for grounding (even though they are isolated by washers) and the TSO Installation Manual (stamped "approved") does not have that language contained. These manuals are both linked from the manufacturer website.

The original draft installation manual and user guide on the website stated that the grounding wire may not be necessary. On the TSO approved Installation Manual it appears that the grounding wire must be secured. I confirmed with the company via email that attachment of the grounding wire is necessary. Just trying to figure out where the A&P should attach it. The access panel on that part of the wing doesn't really allow access to the wingtip.

The existing wingtip light grounds to the frame - there is no grounding wire. For others that have installed this device - where/how did you add a grounding wire to complete the installation of the skybeacon? Has anyone run an extra wire yet to power the strobe? Edited to add - an A&P will be installing mine but just wondering how much time to estimate for installing an extra grounding wire etc.

Just FYI - My November order was just shipped.

When did you preorder? I've heard nothing on mine.

I would say the custom plugs are not expensive at all relative to the quality of the product. They are basically made to fit your plane, have N-number attached and are very durable. It takes nearly 2 months from the time you order them til delivery. They will also ask for pictures after your order to verify the pattern they need to make.

I was curious because I'm thinking about the sky beacon now and then getting the other wing tip when uavionix releases it. Has anyone installed the SkyBeacon on an M20C yet?

Any reason why you are opting for the tail mounted version vice the SkyBeacon?

Resurrecting this thread because it has become relevant again. Last year I started this thread because my dimmer switch wasn't working and when I went back to the hangar to take pictures etc it miraculously was working. Well...fast forward to now and its NOT working...so I will go back to the hangar and get pics this time...hopefully taking pictures of the switch will make it work...if it doesn't I will post some pictures and let everyone know. Edited to add: Type JS

How many AMUs dues the DIY kit run?

The plastic panels in my airplane are good but the sidewall carpeting is starting to deteriorate a bit. Are there vendors with pre-cut carpet? What seems to be the preferred method of keeping the carpet in place?

Farris Aviation in Ridgecrest has an instructor with those quals. 760-301-4522 Instructor is Brian Cepaitis. Not sure what his going rate is these days.

Apologies for the necropost - but I could use an electronic copy for a 1965 M20C Owners Manual. Anyone have an eCopy?

I think the biggest problem most of us have is the orphaned STC for new installations.

Oil fouling and black oil but good compressions is likely a worn ring issue. On a high time C model its likely that it ran a bit "hot" over its 1800 hours but that is just guessing. I have an email from Mike Busch saying that this condition is not really a major issue other than its a pain in the butt and you always risk having plugs not clearing if they get oil soaked. The lycoming run up procedure should be followed: https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Magneto Drop-Off.pdf Leaning the motor slightly during this run up seems to increase the EGT enough where it burns some of the oil off. The fix for the oily plugs is to have new rings installed or new/overhauled cylinders. Another symptom you may see is that you are blowing lots of oil out of the breather since you are pressurizing the case due to blow by. You may also have a stuck ring or two and these can be freed with a solvent ring wash...your A&P should know how to do this as well. I'm not an A&P.

#3 cylinder fouled due to lead fouling or oil? Lead fouling can be somewhat prevented with the AGGRESSIVE leaning on deck. Oil fouling is a different problem. What were the condition of the spark plugs when you pulled them out to replace them? Clean and dry or oily? Does your oil get black quickly after an oil change?

Anyone here every done this work and have an estimated cost?