anthonydesmet

Concur with Don. I also priced the big 3 and went with Edison at WetWingologists after meeting him and couldn’t be happier with the process. Here is a link from D Max walking through tank inspection and repair from minor to major strip and reseal. This maybe something you and your mech can walk through to decide if you need a complete strip and reseal or bide some time until you can get in with one of the majors. Or maybe have D Max look at them. http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/_overlay/Fuel Tank Repair_How We Fix Them 2-05.htm A personal note - my mech and I did a couple patches over the years until I got tired of not being able to top off after each flight and the cabin smell. It feels like a nice luxury once you get them done to to land, top off and throw it in the hanger knowing your ready to next flight.....

Mike, let me check tomorrow afternoon when I get back to Florida. I have a digital version of all the K maintenance pubs I received from another Mooney space member. I think I can sort through and get you the diagram. PM me with your email when you get a chance.

Exactly!

Edison did my wing reseal about a year ago. Awesome service and couldn’t be happier that’s why I was asking if he did the long range tanks. Well this makes my decision a little easier....the thought of going to a Bravo is a nice one but the reality of continuing to fly an airframe I’m intimately familiar with and having spent a handful of years perfecting makes it seems more practical to do the long range tanks.

@LANCECASPER @Piloto can Edison do the long range tank mod? I’m starting a new position with Lockheed Martin and moving to Orlando. My current Virginia Beach to Boston trip to visit my son just became Orlando to Boston so looking at options. One of which was moving to a Bravo/faster/factory 89+ gal Mooney.....my wife’s suggestion God bless her......but I still like my 185kts Trophy...

All these are good suggestions especially an alarm if you are not getting flow to the mask. However I am hear to tell you having personally experienced hypoxia every four years during my aviation physiology refresher in the Navy and also experiencing it once in an F-14, all the alarms, bells and whistles wont help if you’re already hypoxic. The key is to know your own hypoxia symptoms which we experienced every time in a pressur chamber. Mine are sweats, burning in my finger extensions and irritability. The second time I experienced hypoxia in the Hornet I felt the symptoms, we got down to below 24K (pressurized cabin with a cabin altitude below 10K) and canceled the mission. Turns out it was my OBOGS regulator wasn’t working properly which the PR’s found post flight. If you are a “fly above 10k” guy and you have the chance to execute a pressure chamber ride I highly recommend it because you won’t forget what it feels like. Plus the eye opener of having little to know cognitive ability. In the chamber my task was to stack alternating shaped blocks. Passing through 19k without O2 on our way up to 25K I couldn’t remember what I was supposed to do and just sat there with blocks in my hand. I was awake but not functioning. If you think you’re going to have the ability to remember to descend let alone the motor skills to do it, you won’t. If you can’t get a chamber experience, it’s always good to review yourself during your pre flight brief the hypoxia symptoms. I think you can find them in the Basic MED lecture series and splattered all through AOPA online. If your climbing through +/- 15K and your sweating with air vent open and an outside temp of 0 deg Celsius and don’t feel right or maybe it’s taking you longer time than usual to dial a frequency in, it might be time to check your flow.

For old wax the toothbrush dipped into a cup of water works. Go behind it with a dry towel. When I wax the build up happens but I also go behind my buffing with a damp towel just around the rivets followed by a dry cloth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Godspeed!

Ziggy, you probably have already thought of this. But any chance of keeping it on the jacks and setting up a conference call with Don Maxwell to talk through some troubleshooting with you and your mech before you stiff leg it down? I have done this with him once before. Just a thought.......

Copy. Thanks Kortopates. I concur and that does make sense. I just remembered someone having a latch issue is all.

KLR is spot on. The point I just wanted to bring out is because density altitude changes and air temperature effect your true airspeed and you have a turbo, you are taking better advantage of why we all bought a turbo because your resultant true airspeed will be higher. Over to the individual if you want to run ROP or LOP.

Concur. Just a Private Pilot option but I bought a 262 because of speed, economy and to go higher to get into smoother air and away from the <10K traffic. If your not up in mid-teens your not taking full advantage of why you bought a TSIO-360. Granted mine is a 262 with an MB and I fly at 65%, between 12-18K. 2400 RPM and with a MB that puts MP around 24.5. I like 100 deg ROP for best power. This puts my CHT'S around 350, cowl flaps closed, TIT at 1400. All set with my fuel flow at 12.5GPH. my result KTAS is 180KTS +/- 2 to 3 knots.never had a problem with plugs and I do borescopes x 2 a year and my valves look great. i do think your numbers are off a bit but is would,try cruising higher and different ROP and LOP settings after you do your GAMI spread checks before you really start to think something is up.

Ziggy, I think I remember reading a post here (or possibly on MAPA) about a year back about someone having a somewhat similar issue. The individual stated that he also looked down and saw the emergency gear extension latch was also closed. However upon investigation he realized that the latch was slightly backed out just resulting in not enough contact to make the airplane think it was engaged. After he cycled it up and re-latched he did not have an issue other than the need to ohvousoly re-rig the latch so there was no play in it. My question is, did you cycle the latch or just look down at it? You may want to try that first because if you say it was a bumpy taxi I can see the latch moving out and up causing the same issue for you especially is the locking mechanism has some play in it. Just my two cents but this sounds real familiar.

Ron at Red Sky Aviation - Marion County/X35 also has a lot of Mooney experience and a great reputation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Floridians, I currently have a nice insulated hangar at Marion County for 300. Marion County is a nice alternative for OCF and Williston if someone is looking. Usually the cheapest gas around as well. I am also writing to see if anyone has info around Orlando. I am looking for hangar space during Monday through Friday starting this fall. I might be taking a job in Orlando and my family will still be in the Va Beach area so I will commute on weekends. I was thinking of Orlando Exec or Orlando Apopka Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick follow up - I finally got a chance to talk to the folks at autopilot central yesterday. The above information addresses preventative maintenance that should be performed on my flight computer and module. However after talking with Allen and Stan, it does not address my primary issue of the autopilot engaging the clutch to drive the servos. After the discussion we are moving onto a faulty wire (oh joy). The plus side of this is that I am going into annual tomorrow so the airplane will be torn down to parade rest and I will have access to behind the panels a lot easier. They are also sending back my computer and module this week for the troubleshooting. Personally I still feel there is something up with my CWS switch since the airplane acts as if that button is depressed when the autopilot is engaged. I.e, all autopilot engaged indications are present accept the servo's driving the controls which is exactly what happens when the pilot depresses the CWS switch. This also sounds like what militron had above plus would account for the short electrical smell I had before all this happened. i am glad I did have the computer and module checked out also. Helps isolate the problem. I am also a big preventative maintenance guy so I have factored in the above cost into to my 2018 preventative maintenance plan for the year as a way to continue the good health of my autopilot once it is fixed. the folks at Autopilot Central are outstanding to work with by the way and I highly recommend them. more to follow........

Uhhg. just heard back from autopilot central. Had a few issues. Here is the bench test results: PRELIMINARY INSPECTION: Bench tested; unit needs securing hardware; has old style filter capacitors; connectors have sticky substance on them; pitch rate caps are faulty and need replaced; no other problems seen at this time. Looking a little over 3AMU's to fix

Bruce, concur, great details. Point number 3 - "Now I had the "gear unsafe light" and the "gear down" illuminated. The gear remained down as verified in the window with the gear handle up. Then I lowered the gear handle and the tone stop and the "gear unsafe light" extinguished. "Gear Down" light remained illuminated" you didn't mention if you think you still have a problem but i dont think you do. Your indications are normal I think. Remember though, " 65 knots, flaps landing (33deg), gear up with landing gear tone" - the landing tone is coming from where your throttle position is and resultant manifold pressure not the airspeed switch. If your interested here are a couple excerpts from the maintenance manual: LANDING GEAR WARNING SYSTEM. The landing gear warning system provides the pilot with an audible warning that the landing gear is not down and locked when the throttle is retarded below 10 inches manifold pressure on SIN 25-0001 thru 25-0780. The warning system on aircraft SIN 25-0781 & ON is activated when the throttle is retarded below 16 to 18 inches MP. When the landing gear is down and locked the electrical circuit is opened and the intermittent horn is stopped. This warning switch is mounted on the throttle housing forward of the instrument panel and can be adjusted for the proper setting by loosening the screw and repositioning the switch. 32-30-00 32-30-01 - EXTENSION AND RETRACTION - GEAR SYSTEM OPERATIONAL INSPECTION 1. Raise aircraft on jacks. (See Section 7-10-00). 2. With Master Switch ON and gear switch in UP position, apply pressure to pitot tube (see Section 32- 60-01). Verify gear retraction occurs at 75 MPH +/- 5 MPH (65 +7/-4 KIAS). Allow gear to raise completely. Check for any tire interference as tire enters wheelwell. 3. Close throttle and confirm gear horn sounds........etc, etc, etc like I mentioned before, mine likes 80+ knots. I am going into annual in a couple,of weeks and I can see if the airspeed switch is something that is adjustable because that I am not sure of....maybe someone else knows.

All, reading through my last post I may have mis-led a little. The airspeed switch and squat switch's entire purpose is to prevent inadvertent gear up on deck. That's why the gear is taking so long to raise becaus you are not above minimum airspeed.....I know, duh. the throttle position resulting in MP while airborne and gear not down will give you the gear horn to lower the gear. In either case it's a "hey dummy, check the handle" because it doesn't agree with where the airplane is.

I am almost sure you have an airspeed switch behind your airspeed indicator and not a squat switch. I can try and find when the switches changed but I know mine is an airspeed switch and I think it happened with J and K models around 1981ish. If you have the airspeed switch you are getting the red unsafe light with warning tone because you are below the airspeed the switch is set for with the gear handle in the up position. The switch is giving you the tone because you are in proximity of landing speed with the gear handle in the wrong (up) position. It's saying "hey dummy (that's what mine calls me) you are trying to land without putting the gear handle down". This is because the switch references the handle location and not the gear location. Before I would try all this good advice I would fly a couple of times and refrain from putting the handle up until your at 85kts and accelerating just to give you a couple knots of cushion. I think mine is set around 82kts and in my service manual ref's 80 to 85 kts so yours maybe a little higher. if i'm wrong there is plenty of great advice and education in the posts above. Good luck and please let us know......also welcome to Mooney ownership......great airplanes but sometimes....#@!!

Doubt it. Can't see Grumman paying Breitling for a clock under a government contract.

I am kind of partial to my F-14 Tomcat 8 Day clock I got to keep from taking the last F-14 to the boneyard. Wind it up and it keeps time just as good as any digital including my Omega. Nice start and stop watch feature. Plus the backlighting works at night.....pretty hard to get ahold of one these days though.

Carusoam, will do when i get back out there tomorrow. Google KC-295 autopilot computer and you will see it. Basically a blue box with two square wire harness connectors and a single line in from your static system for the altitude hold. Flyboy, I am sending it to autopilot central. Personaly i I think I have a shortered wire and tomorrow I am going to pull some panels to take a look and see if anything is obvious before I pull the boxes. That's why I didn't pull them today and I didn't have time to look behind panels. Reason being is that on takeoff at gear up I remember smelling something like a little burning but there was also some controlled burning a few miles from the airport. So I discounted it and also thinking that would have popped the cb. But looking back the smell seemed a little more intense than outside ground burning. Plus it did cause me to glance at the cb panel but the smell was over before it started. I could be talking myself into things but it doesn't cost anything to look. Plus a nice Friday morning at the airport.....who wouldn't that.....

Quick follow up - I talked to the folks at mid continent and autopilot central and after some over the phone troubleshooting in the plane I need to send the autopilot computer that sits in the avionics bay to them to bench test. They think it's either a distribution line on the circuit board that sends the signal to the pitch and roll trim servos. Apparently there is just one line that sends this signal. If the bench test is good they think I may have a short in a wire harness. In any case they seemed to have dealt with this before. I am also sending the control module but they think it is functioning properly since the on switch magnetically holds and the module is sending all the right info to the displays. More to follow. yoke CWS and TRIM switch are both good.

Thanks Carusoam. But yes, the electric trim was engaged and works fine. When I disengaged the electric trim I would get the flashing red trim light and warning tone. I was thinking that so I disengaged and reangaged to see if it was the reason you are saying.