MikeOH

WOW! That's nuts. Mine went from $1056 to $1197 and I can assure you I don't have close to your experience, and only have PPL/instrument. 1970 M20F with hull coverage of $70K and liability $1MM/$100K, NOT smooth.

@M20Doc I know people like SS, but is there any reason cad plate would be preferable?

Yeah, what with VORs being shut down, and no GPS, I'm looking forward to the resurgence of AN ranges!

My plane had an old school OAT installed in the pilot side window, but the hole was plugged when the PO installed the Insight G3. I don't know how easy to see your OAT is in the windshield, nor the ergonomic ease of reading your new CGR-30C, but I sure wish I had the old OAT. They are so much easier to read than my G3. Maybe consider those factors before summarily yanking it out. You can orient an OAT gauge so that 0 degrees C is at the top; a quick glance and you can tell if you are close to freezing. Like setting your tach so red-line is at 12 o'clock (oh, wait...no one knows how to drive a stick anymore, nevermind)

Nothing wrong with that answer! Thanks

And, the point I failed to communicate, is that 10% is a pretty significant difference to me! IOW, an 0.005" diameter difference affects area by 10%. No idea if a 10% area difference makes an appreciable difference in flow in a tube with a large length/diameter ratio, but I would not just assume it's insignificant. If Lycoming supplies on the high side of tolerance, and brand "X" on the low side...

He's in San Diego, but I enjoyed working with Paul @kortopates He owns a M20K 252/Encore, so I think you'll be in good hands!

Well, that diametrical difference represents over 10% in area. Just sayin'

All I want to know is why Mooney changed the mechanical flap system in the M20B? Johnson bar simple; wish my M20F had it.

Just rebuilt both mags at annual this past January. I thought briefly about an E-mag but went traditional. This data based thread makes me feel like I didn't make a huge mistake; maybe gave up easy starting. But, I've only had a couple of hard hot starts...never ran a battery down. And, I've got my hot start procedure pretty dialed in, now

@Ragsf15e Curious about your methodology for establishing the error bars. Thanks!

You might consider replacing the zip-tie on the pushrod tube with an Adel clamp. Eventually vibration will cause it to cut through the metal tube.

Seriously, though. I bought my Mooney with a gear-up history; it was before the last engine overhaul and had the one piece belly, which was a plus! I didn't give the gear up a second thought.

Yeah, that's a defective Mooney, right there! Mooneys are designed to be Time Machines into the FUTURE! Run from this one!

It's in SOME POHs. And, appears to be in ALL newer POHs. That fact begs the question: are all those owners of old aircraft suppose to go buy the latest edition of their models POH and follow it? I mean, that would be the SAFEST thing to do, right? And, if they don't then they must be dangerous pilots like me. Yeah, no one's said that..but it's dripping off your prose. Good night.

Good thing I have a 1970 M20F...the lawyers weren't swarming at that point, apparently

@carusoam I made it quite clear what I was going to do with the information.

I think your logic is flawless. However, the POH cite above hardly describes anything close to that process. In fact, it is in a bolded section AFTER the pre-flight checklist. It's AFTER telling you how to shut and lock the door, and it doesn't mention even remotely how long to drain, let alone which tank. Cliffy's comment about crud and at annual (which likely doesn't happen, unfortunately), I'm going to periodically position a decent size jar that is greater than the sump and line volume, and drain for long enough to fill it. THAT would be a worthwhile check; I can look for crud and all that water that is supposedly lurking in there. I'm sure NOT going to do that before every flight and fill-up. Which is likely why the POH does NOT have it as part of the check list itself.

Wait, I thought we were talking about WATER?

Sigh...what's the point? I want to KNOW if there is water. That's the point of sumping the tanks, isn't it? If I see water I'm damn sure going to do something about it! The POH excerpt to pull the drain after you're already in the plane is pointless.

Maybe, but that is NOT what I said. You are most certainly NOT CHECKING for that water. Per the POH cite above you are already ensconced in the plane at that point.

Hmm, what is the point of doing this? You are already IN the airplane; they just told you how to shut the door for gawd's sake. You're sure not checking for water in the sump!

BINGO! Exactly how I handle it. It's probably about time for me to check the sump to make sure it still works, but since I've NEVER found water in the tanks I'm not about to start draining the sump before every flight! As you say, IF I find water in the tanks I will most definitely be THEN draining the sump.

Solution: Buy a plane that has been flown 100 hours/year for the last couple of years. The airworthiness bugs have been worked out. Upgrades are your own fault

True, dat. But, nothing looks and smells as good as leather...mmmm. Comes down to functionality vs. pizazz