MikeOH

Interesting. My ‘70F has the 201 windshield and the brake fluid reservoir is on the engine side of the fire wall; easily accessible with the top cowling removed. I just assumed that was the stock location until this thread.

That’s what I have; don’t have to take ‘em off, thus they are always there when you do need to tie down. Very happy my plane had them installed.

Glad to hear you're back up 'n running:) My first annual is coming up the end of this month....palms are getting sweaty!

Technically, spelled Bowden...just sayin'

LOL! Yeah, been bugging me since I was at the hangar this afternoon trying to get it to work...brought the Zulu home and finally got annoyed enough to post! Should have done that FIRST!

MS comes through again! That was it!! Feel like a DIP (tee hee hee)...I did RTFM, but only the section on Bluetooth. Never got around to the section on the DIP switch settings. Thanks again, Marauder!

Hopefully this is an easily ansered newbie question! I have become the owner of an original Lightspeed Zulu headset and am trying to Bluetooth to my phone. The link goes fine, and I can make and receive calls, but the microphone doesn't work! I can hear, but the other end of the call can't hear me. The mic works fine when using the COM radio, but not the phone. What am I doing wrong?

Man, that is one CRAPPY weld...is there ANY penetration??? Sure doesn't look like it!

I have had some recent experience troubleshooting the control box. PM me if you want the schematic.

With a schematic to the box you can manually trace each wire and figure out which pin goes where in the connector block. Pain in the arse, but that's likely what you need to do. The wires MAY be labelled (they are on the wires going into the mating connector block, but I'm not sure about the wires in the control box itself. PM me if you need the shematic.

Amen! I really like the idea of an actual, accurate, fuel gauge.

Thank you! I'll work with my mechanic on this on the next oil change if running at 7 qts doesn't change anything.

Perfect! Thank you! Do I have to drain the oil to inspect, or is it above the oil level in the sump?

Thanks; I'll try running 7 quarts, as I normally keep it at 6. Also, pardon my ignorance but where is the inlet screen? I believe there's a screen near/part of the oil filter adaptor, but is that the one you're referring to?

Slight thread creep question: Not sure if this has been going on since I bought my plane last year, but yesterday I was watching my oil pressure gauge for 5 to 10 seconds, rather than just a glance, and noticed it 'twitches' every few seconds, as does my Insigt G3; maybe a 3 psi change rather than a steady reading. Normal? Anything to worry about? Thanks!

I had time in a M20B before buying my F...saw the same issue as you are having when I transitioned. I use the same approach as you, trimmed for 80, 70-75 over the fence and after planting the mains I have to hold the nose off until it settles, otherwise a bit of a bounce.

Hmm, I'm not so sure. Depending on how you read note 20, I could still see that the dash number is important for the particular application; i.e., IO-360-A1A. If it was me, I'd call Precision Airmotive and ask...maybe even a call to Lycoming. Doesn't seem like this is something to leave to chance. DISCLAIMER: I am NOT an A&P

Looks a lot like my '70F. I have to watch it on take-off to keep #2 under 390. Normally #2 runs right around 350-360 in cruise (65-70% power). Used to be a bit higher (405-410 on take-off) until I noticed the upper baffle wasn't sealing against the top cowl on both sides; 1" gap! Pushed pilot side into place and saw temps drop 10-20 F. The co-pilot's side still has a gap. I got a set of new baffles from Guy, but haven't had a chance to put them in just yet. They do look great! I'm hoping that will drop CHTs a bit more and also lower my oil temp which runs pretty high (220).

Ignorant questions: Is putting a metal wing on a plane originally designed/built with a wood wing going to cause 'certification issues?' Are the wood wing and donor metal wing Mooneys under the same type certificate? Going to need a DER?

It is painful to look at what's left of that poor wing. This thing falls deeply into the "Run, Forrest, run!!" category.

I went with the mounting kit from Spruce; $20, IIRC. Somehow, I ended up with an extra set. If you want to pay postage you can have it. PM me. I went with fixed from Hooker ($420), and have zero complaints. I like being able to cinch them up real tight for take-off and landing; then slack in flight. When I need to switch tanks I just slip my shoulder under the belt, and slip it back when I'm done. I've had annoying experiences with inertia lock retractors in various cars over the years; lock-up, won't retract/tension, and locked where I couldn't pull the belt out! Had to take the damn thing apart...total PIA! Didn't want to repeat any of that with the plane! Installed them myself (NEVER again!) and had my A&P sign off the install. All-in, a little over $500. If you can find an A&P to put them in for under $300, go for it...I must have had 6 hours into the project (putting the clamps on the frame tubing is beyond difficult on the pilot's side...only a mere PIA on the passenger side) Mike

You are correct; and, I was a bit disappointed to find it pretty much the book number. However,....and I wasn't going to admit this until now,....I realized a day later that I didn't CLOSE THE COWL FLAPS!!! Not sure what that took away, but I'm going to have to run the test again; or, more likely, just stabilize at the same power setting, at the same DA, note the speed...then close the cowl flaps, and look at the rise. Then, just add that to my 168.4 mph number.

This thread prompted me to take a 'speed run' flight today. I attempted to be as scientific as possible (criticize away!), here are the conditions, methodology, and data: Aircraft: 1970 M20F, Mods: Lower cowl closure, 201 windshield, flap, aileron, rudder, elevator gap seals, dorsal fin mod, PowerFlow exhaust, brake rotation. NOT freshly waxed Test weight: 2237 +10/-20 pounds (uncertainty in 'stuff' in cabin, plus fuel burn during test) OAT = 78 F. (G3 Insight). RH = 40%. (I used an online calculator to determine the surface RH based on the temp/dew point at my departure airport and assumed the same RH at altitude where the OAT was 78 F as I had no way to determine dew point or RH directly. I do not know what error this assumption introduced) Pressure altitude = 6700 (I was trying, unsuccessfully to get a DA = 10,000). DA = 9,600 based upon PA, temp, and RH. I used the GPS method described by Prof. David Rogers (Google "horseshoe method") which is completely independent of wind speed and direction and requires flying three legs of 90 degrees heading change. I stabilized for several minutes on each leg after the GPS speed no longer was changing. Throttle: WOT. RPM = 2500 +/-20 throughout test (Horizon digital tach). FF leaned to 10.3 +/-0.1 gph. (Based on many fuel fills being accurate to 0.5 gallon vs. fuel totalizer this should be an accurate fuel flow) Drum roll, please..... TAS = 168.4 mph

OP here. I wanted to follow up with closure on this. YEAH!!! A/P working once again. Despite having crawled under the panel and finding the D-sub connector not fully seated, removing said connector and lookingfor bent pins....that's EXACTLY what the problem was; I just needed to pull the TC/RC out of the panel in order to see that two pins were shorted together due to one of them being bent. Pretty clearly done by the shop that had my panel torn apart to find the static system leak. A/P had been working just fine until then. Anyway, hat's off to Al, and Barry, at STEC (Genesis). VERY helpful and friendly advice. Based on the symptoms and measurements I made at Al's direction we thought that the unit needed to be sent back to the factory for repair; that's why I was pulling it out of tha panel. Al was originally betting it was a bent pin...and he was right!