MikeOH

I keep going back and forth between a kit from Jaeger or Airtex, and just doing the carpet myself and having an auto upholstery shop do the seats. I'm thinking that may be the lower cost route.

This line from "Liar, LIar" comes to mind, "I'm just going to bend over and take it up the tailpipe."

Note that they will only fit Fs from S/N: 22-1257 and on.

Take $5K in cash; offer him $4K...go up to the $5K if you have to I think he's probably getting to just wanting it gone...the guy in his face that can put cash in his hand could be you!

Oh, joy. I have Global, as well...November renewal is coming up fast, I'm afraid.

@Parker_Woodruff Thank you for the tips! While I'm not there yet, that age horizon is not nearly as distant as it once was Do you have access to the carriers' actuarial data that would back up their new rules? Or, do all of us just have to 'take their word' that older pilots are causing a disproportionate number of accidents; specifically gear-ups? Same question with Basic Med: has there been any evidence that Basic Med pilots are crashing more (for ANY reason, let alone medical related)? More specifically, are older Basic Med pilots crashing more than older Third Class Med pilots? My cynicism smells a GIANT rat! As much as I don't like their new 'rules' if the data is there to justify them, then I can, at least, understand that they are reasonable reactions. That data better be statistically significant...not, "well two pilots over 65 crashed this year; and only one last year. So, since the accident rate doubled no more insuring over 65 pilots!"

One question, one opinion: Which do you enjoy more, flying, and rebuilding is the means to get there, or taking on restoration projects? Don't pay over $5K for this one.

I'd pull the access cover near the pitot. Take off the wire(s) (not sure if the return path is through the aircraft frame). Then, use an ohmmeter to make sure the pitot has some resistance (>1 ohm, <5 ohm, rough numbers!). Next, use a voltmeter to measure across the feed wires (or, hot wire to ground) with the pitot heat switch on. Should see battery voltage. If not, check for voltage on both sides of the pitot switch. If no voltage on the pitot side, the switch is bad. If no voltage on the source side, check the CB on both sides. (you may just have a CB/switch). That should narrow it down to a wiring versus failed component problem.

My '70 F oil temp runs hotter than I'd like, but better since I redid the baffles (I had high CHTs, as well. Ran into the low 400s before I fixed the baffles). CHTs run 320-350 now, even on hot days. I do run LOP. OIl temp is still around 215-220 in cruise, and can get to 230 in climb on a hot day. I've had the oil cooler overhauled by Pacific OIl Coolers (not just flushed), replaced the oil lines to/from the cooler, checked the vernatherm and its seat... I've just learned to live with it. The factory gauge never gets past the green, but it teeters on the edge sometimes!

Ya, right! Looks photoshopped to me

Well, wouldn't THAT be nice

Thanks, guys! Too myopic to figure out it was the fuel pump! Makes perfect sense. Should it be loose? It kind of rattles around when I grab it and move it.

Naturally, I don't have a picture...so, this may be bit more challenging 1970 M20F When I was in the middle of my oil change fiasco, with the filter off, I noticed a part that was below the filter and and slightly offset to the pilot's side. It had a small diameter hose (1-2 inch) connected to it that came from the upper plenum on the pilot's side (I.e., the high pressure source of air to this unknown part). It looked like some kind of 'duct' of an odd shape to cool something, but what? The mags and the vacuum pump are above it... I've looked through the parts manual but can't locate anything in that area. The top of this part is close to round and its top is soldered on, but I couldn't really see the rest of it. It seems like it is over something that I can't see, either. It's also a bit 'loose' rather than solidly secured which is what is troubling me. I'm concerned that it has fallen out of some proper position, (cool the mags??). Any ideas?

Man, did I ever need to hear that story! Thank you!! I'm feeling much better

Yuup! That was the missing element. I should have made a "How do I NOT make a MESS" post before embarking on this adventure!

@PT20J Oh, I was smart enough to put the safety wire on the filter adapter BEFORE putting filter on. But, between working around the mags and vacuum pump, and the other wire already there, it took me awhile! I couldn't even tell where the other safety wire went! I was SUPER careful when I cut the old wire as I was afraid of cutting the other wire by mistake and having to redo that one!

Thanks, Hank! I was having trouble picturing how the flashing was 'installed.' Your procedure has you test flying before re-installing the cowling....hows' that workin' for ya?

Thanks, but it's the IO360A1A, and there was clearly a BUNCH of oil still in the filter after two days. Hard to say for sure, but the filter seemed to be angled slightly down towards the rear; i.e., the oil would NOT drain out of the filter no matter how long you waited. I'm wondering if the poking holes in the filter, bagging it with tape, and rotating to drain would actually work?

Thanks, but I'm having trouble picturing what and where, exactly, the cardboard goes?

I waited two days after draining, as well. I had the baggie all ready to go, but couldn't quite figure out how to seal where the filter mates to the engine; that's where all the oil came from. I'm wondering if I should poke holes in the filter at the top, then seal a bag around the filter, loosen and rotate the filter 180 degrees and let the oil drain into the baggies before losing the seal to the engine.

HAH! I chickened out! I had it done in January at annual, so I figured I. could 'cheat' this one time

Ok, so I've owned my Mooney for three years but I have never changed the oil myself. The CB in me was NOT happy with this situation so, I thought, time to DIY! How hard could it be? Draining the oil was a piece of cake thanks to the quick drain some considerate PO installed! I literally did not spill a drop...ANYWHERE! Now, we get to the oil filter...clipped the safety wire at the filter, no problem. Stuffed a bunch of rags under the filter and unscrewed the filter...OMG! Oil down the back of the engine, down the shock discs, down the nose gear, onto the tire, puddle on the ground! SHEEESH!!! Cleaned up best I could, but lots of places my arm just couldn't get to. What did I do wrong??? More whining: What was the designer thinking putting the safety wire tang at the BOTTOM of the filter adapter??? Good grief, why wouldn't the damn thing be at the TOP where you can see and easily thread the safety wire through? Must have taken me 15 minutes to blindly get the damn wire through the tang by feel. Part of the problem is that there was another safety wire going through the same tang. Does two wires through one tang sound right? I've got better than 2 hours in the project and still need to do the run-up to check for leaks and put all the cowling back on, then cut open the old filter! I may just pay the shop the next time!

I have a Scout and it works just fine with my iPad for traffic and weather. ADSB-Out with a TailBeacon Under $2500 installed, with tax, for both. Happy camper

Does anyone actually look at the fuel selector?? I reach down and turn it through the "off" detent to the right/left detent as desired. I want to "feel" it drop into the detent; no point in looking.

Thanks,...I think