Browncbr1

I'll taxi some riding the brakes to see if the glazing helps.

I can understand how pads may need to be broken in if the rotor isn't perfectly smooth. Perhaps it will get better, but will check everything again first. But, this was somewhat how it was with the previous pads that were quite worn already. I didn't do any break in procedure and wasn't advised by anyone until now. And I just had one landing on these pads before the above described scenario.

Not sure how old rotors are, but they seem to look ok... I'll check again.

It just came out of annual and my mechanic said he replaced the left slave cylinder seal due to some moisture showing. He also installed brake pads on both sides and bled the system at my request. It seems the same as before. I can't imagine him doing all that and not greasing the slider pins. It brakes evenly. That is to say that one side isn't stronger than the other. Are the right and left systems completely independent of each other? It's odd that they would brake very evenly poorly.

ive read that some people have said that mooney brakes are not the most robust or lack some authority compared to other planes. Im not sure if those accounts are the standard or the exceptions. I installed new brake pads and bled lines thinking it would help. They don't feel spongee. But, they don't stop my plane very well at all. I was trying to make a turn off today and I was stomping as hard as I could and it was just slowing down at a comfortable rate, not representative of how hard I was pushing. . Other planes I've flown would have locked up the wheels had I been pushing that hard. Does this sound like a problem or just how the mooney brakes are? There is literally no way I would be able to lock up the wheels with these brakes. This is all with just me... Wondering how it would be at gross

My exhaustive research found that the best were produced 66-67 also... I think I recall MAPA saying the flush rivets are good for 5kts improvement in the real world and the claimed performance was exaggerated 10-15kts when Republic owned Mooney.

That is intimidating!

The guy I bought my F from built his RV... either 10 or 12?? 4 seater.. lots of room.. he built it very nicely... he said he gets 4000fpm climb performance and very very fast.. of course, those are probably cold MN winter numbers.. it was cool to see a guy put in what he wanted, including a head liner from a chevy Tahoe because he wanted to without government interference.. But, he said he had about $250k and 5 years building time into it..

i have not experienced radio issues with my whelen.. it is whiter and brighter...... i have a generator, so this has helped me in more ways than one... It has been my best bang for buck upgrade thus far.

sounds like they've packed the wings full of coke and weed and need to find a pilot to get it into the states... haha

I'm still learning... can someone please explain to me what the difference is for a Top Prop? I have a scimitar prop and I'm not sure what a top prop is.. the hartzell website doesn't seem to offer any detailed information... All I can see are the claimed benefits .. Is the Top Prop the same thing as the Scimitar prop?

Sounds like a nice plane, I wonder if it comes with a nice price. . You'll like the brittain system. Actually, they have a plunger valve you can put in the panel to bypass the yoke button. You can pull it out to engage the system. It's just a vacuum valve to let the suction out. Actually, on mine, I can just pull the button out of the yoke and put it in the ash tray while flying around. In bumpy air when cruising, I'll put it back in and it is awesome how it holds in even in a lot of turbulence. I bought the accuflite and alt hold systems for it, but haven't installed yet. But, just wanted to tell you that you will probably really like the PC system if you buy that plane.

Maybe I misunderstood him. I haven't even flown mine 50 hours before it went in for annual. Maybe he was saying every other oil change, change the filter too. I'll clarify with him. In any case, I saw the lycoming 50hr requirement, so I'll stick to that. Thanks!

I don't know. They said changing the filter more often shows very little debris in the filter. They also sent oil for analysis and they said there is hardly anything in the oil Generally, they told me that if the oil is changed often enough, then the oil filter can go longer. I don't know

I am currently using Exxon Elite 20w-50... The previous owner used this and said that it contains some additives similar to camguard to keep the cam nice and wet. I am no chemist, but I believed him, as his breadth of knowledge was impressive.. I've started to add Avblend as well, at the advice from some very experienced guys locally here... I was told it would mitigate risk of a stuck valve, which I have heard of killing motors.. On the advice of others and my CFI and A&P who operate a 6 plane fleet doing 100 hour inspections ever month, changing oil every 25 hours and filter at 100hour inspection is how to get long life out of your motor.. So, I trust their advice, as they are way more experienced than most of us..

+2 There are more scare posts on this forum than I found consistent with reality... It is reasonable to assume that a plane that has lived near the coast for 40 years will have corrosion somewhere. Likewise, it is reasonable that a plane in a hangar in a cold dry climate its whole life would have little corrosion. When I was looking at planes, coastal locations were deal breakers for me, I wouldn't even look. I ended up finding a good clean one that lived it's whole life in a MN hangar with a long time owner... Do yourself a favor,.. just focus on finding a good clean airframe... all else, such as avionics, motor, appliances, etc are replaceable. Someone on here said that people with 60's era mooneys are cheap and defer maintenance.. I don't agree... I, and many others, have a slightly lower acquisition cost 60's era model so there is plenty of budget leftover for anal meticulous preventative maintenance. For example, when I acquired mine, I had the entire fuel delivery system overhauled just for peace of mind... I see a lot of high dollar planes showing threads on the tires.. .. I figure it's because they are broke after buying it... I also honestly believe the 67 year was the best vintage and the proven safe johnson bar system was not offered in the later years.. don't let anyone scare you. My F is easy to start, hot or cold.... forget about it..... use your head and take a lot of salt with what you read on these forums.

mine too

Badmoon, I really suggest you not bother with that C. You'll end up having much more into it than it's worth. I have seen good E models go for that price. I think you would be much happier with the fuel injection and extra power of an E. Not to mention speed. I think the E is the best mooney for a single guy with $30-40k. F is best for a family guy with $40-50k

It may be a good idea to pick alternates that have multiple runway directions if possible. That's one thing I've been thinking about these days.

I suggest you to go buy some aluminum plate and cut a new panel for the left side. Move the vor/ils head over to the left side under the gps head. Put a GEM with ff under the rpm gauge.

Thanks for the advice. I'll check with him.

I'm wondering if I would be better off just getting one of the pma4000 intercom units that go into one of the round holes. I wonder if the install cost of this would be a lot less.

Is that for this gascolator?

What if I bought a ps unit second hand and itcomes with the rack and about two ft of wires. Can my a&p install if the unit has been tested by a non dealer avionics shop?

Right, otherwise I wouldn't have been wondering what to do. I have a friend with an extra one of those he would nearly give me, but I really want to get rid of the clunky intercom boxes everywhere and wire in all my Lemo plug headsets. It seems the real cost involved is all about installation.