cctsurf

I appreciate that, David, at the same time, I think we all know you are the real deal. You headed up the gear lock blocks and we've seen your work on the cowl both in pictures and at the air shows and they looks GREAT. I'd go for a few more updates, like, "Hey, we had a setback." Maybe you posted it, but I didn't see it and I've been watching pretty closely. It is sometimes difficult to watch what you are doing amidst the excitement when you post from other users. It'd almost be nice if on these forums people like you who are progressively doing something to have a post to which you alone could post updates... Anyway, Thanks! I'm not certain I will be able to pay the price when you are finished, but I hope so and I don't want to do drastic things to the baffling until I find out.

I was really hoping that I could accomplish 2 goals with @Sabremech's new cowling. New baffling and better aerodynamics... Haven't heard much recently. My doghouse is in pretty bad shape. I plugged a number of holes recently and things cooled down significantly.

I've never heard of an stc for installing the rear shoulder harnesses... My understanding is that the cage is not located correctly for that install... I hope I'm wrong, because I would love to have rear shoulder harnesses. I'd love to know how you accomplished it. (especially getting the bracket around the tube once the aluminum box was cut) I've heard that the cage is so close to the skin and window that people have had to remove windows or slide the bracket down from the top to install... That seems impossible with the aluminum box. I looked at that myself and wondered what to do. Another issue on my 'C is that the ELT is mounted almost exactly where the shoulder harness would mount... I think I've heard about moving it to the rear of the window... Really want the shoulder harnesses...Never want to use them.

Talk to Lasar...

I know this is an old post, but is there another source of these, other than salvage?

I fly a C model and looked at a G model when I was considering which plane to buy. I like the Carbureted models because they have a significantly lower price at rebuild. Great for the CBs like me out there. While it's not applicable to the OP, I appreciate the Powerflow on mine. I think a G model with the powerflow would be great. I'd love the possibility of a TN on one...

You need a pressure vessel that can take the pressure. I think you would end up essentially redesigning and replacing the cabin. I have to say, because my family has grown beyond the number of seats available on my m20, I've thought about designing and building my own homebuilt, modern take on the M22, using Mooney's wings and tail and designing a fuselage that would carry 6...with future provisions to add pressurization. My understanding is that the airfoils on the M22 are the same as the M20... I'd love a turbine on the front.

Assuming stp, thats a mach number of .78. With the compressibility of air and lower pressure areas changing the speed of sound, that easily makes a higher mach number and locally supersonic flow. Not as loud as a T-6, where they like to make the prop tips actually go supersonic (that's what the BRAAP noise they make is), but the propeller and especially the speed of the tips make much of the noise in our small planes.

Just a little googling on the specs of these two props tell me that they are both 74" in diameter. What you did is add an extra high speed tip to your prop. I wouldn't be surprised if it is nearly half again as loud as your previous prop. Prop tips near supersonic make up a lot of our airplane noise.

My IA suggested exactly this screwdriver for maintenance on my flying pile of screws (was just musing the other day with another pilot on how much all the screws on a mooney weigh). My wife bought the Lowes screwdriver for me pretty soon after the suggestion and I LOVE it. I'm a little disappointed when I get into an area I can't use it. To the OP's point, I would suggest cadmium plated screws over the stainless (as others have noted), but I think going to torx or something different would just interfere with maintenance (I understand the impulse, I love using torx when I get to in other situations). The Philips head screw is ubiquitous in the aviation business. You may find shops not equipped to work on your plane if you change to torx. I recently had a car battery fail next to an airport shop, when I begged the IA for tools to help with the replacement, he had no metric tools...I ended up using a pliers... I expect that very few shops are equipped to deal with torx. Just my $.02

I've been making fuel lines and oil cooler lines under supervision since I started flying. It's really easy, the tools are cheap. I guess I'm a CB, but I can't imagine an amu to replace hoses.

How much for one of the M20C boots? Thanks,

I had a similar problem on my '62. We added friction to the wheel and no longer have this problem.

That's significantly more helpful than I initially believed. I knew the part # for the duct was useless, but I hadn't looked at the clamp... Good catch! I was initially groaning, 'cause a 2.25" duct would NEVER go on. Looking at other websites, the last number (91) is the largest diameter of the pipe in 32nds of an inch, so 91/32nds is 2 and 27/32nds, or 2.84375", making 2.75" pipe really quite possible. the smallest size it's supposed to close is 2 13/32nds, which is 2.40625", more than the 2.25" that Aircraft Spruce quotes. Really, 2.5 is closer to the butter zone, better get back to trying the duct I have...

Does anyone know the diameter of pipe 24 on here? I bought some 2.5", but it seems -REALLY- hard to get on the fittings, is it 2.75"? Thanks!

Sounds great! I'd give up cupholders and armrests for the reliability of the manual gear... 'course I'm nowhere near affording one of those long-body mooneys, so it wouldn't help me, but its nice to dream.

Gotta wonder what a reverse conversion would require on a plane originally built with electric gear...Say a late model F model...of course not one with a quadrant. Sadly, I believe early model Js were all quadrants...

I have to say, I appreciate the better view out of my single-piece windshield. I'm pretty sure the '66 you have has the flat topped windshield and it is even smaller than mine was, so any extra viewing space would be appreciated. Another plus is two fewer seams to leak.

I believe he's referencing another thread, talking about the fact that a number of digital gauge packages have outside air temperature as a feature and therefore people desiring to remove the big ugly one on the windscreen:

I'm still drooling on your cowl...Hope I can make it work. but a better airbox would be a major move forward for the carbureted owners. I have to wonder if the carb heat, etc. could be separated from the vibration of the engine...perhaps attaching the carb heat box to the air filter end/cowl, then using a more common scat tubing to connect to the carb. I know that something like that would require an stc, but it would be a good thing for the longevity of the airbox.

Something like this? I'd love the air filter...

Wondering if other people have that wedge between their carb and the heat box... I don't think I've ever seen one in a picture on here and I don't have one... Looks like my accordian might have appreciated the different angle... Another reason I'd love to get my hands on the sabrecowl... modern airbox, modern baffling...

I wouldn't totally give up on getting a decent one off of here... I'm not certain how long this fact will last, but my understanding is that all of the mooney service centers had rebuild parts on hand. Lasar will rebuild them for a $um, or you can get the parts and your a&p or IA can rebuild it.

I stand corrected. I was working from memory from working on my JPI. The thermocouple wire packs all have big warnings on them about soldering and using copper wire to extend them. From rereading their literature, they mention that zinc chloride flux is necessary when soldering the thermocouple wires.

The thermocouple wire can be cut, it just can't be soldered to be extended... They do a connection with crimp connectors and terminals to connect the sensors to the thermocouple wire. I would think that this could be done to extend the thermocouple wires as well.... What you did in getting new wires would probably be better. How much did they charge you for the new wire?