cctsurf

Was thinking the same thing. Just got done cleaning out the extra wires under my instrument panel. I removed disconnected wire after disconnected wire from behind my panel... 0.2 pound of wire (which is what the weight and balance change shows) seems small, but its really quite a mess of wires.

There are a number around here, I have one that I am planning on replacing in the near future. Just post that you are looking for one.

I'm guessing this is "fish paper" https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/gc-electronics/560/257752 I'm not certain what the purpose was (prevent scratching of things, provide some sort of electrical insulation...not sure), but I've run into it a couple of places. One is between the gear warning microswitch and the throttle cable bracket.

I believe there is a split or star retaining washer underneath the door retainng the camlock to the door.. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/fast_1camloc.html I'd have to go look at mine. I thought mine was more along the lines of a dzus fastener, but I could be misremembering. They also have a retaining washer (split) underneath in a more narrow area of the neck that holds it from falling out. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/dzus.php Just looking at them, it might be a southco fastener, I guess I haven't looked that closely at them... https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/fast_1southco.html One thing I would note is mine is not philips head, but flat-head... It is large enough that with most coins I can open it. I appreciate that because I don't always have a screwdriver in my hand when I want to check fuel.

You beat me to it. I was going to post their web page. I know people who have fought for years trying to seal especially small leaks in their tanks. One trip to Willmar and it was dry. My plane required new doughnuts before they would guarantee it. 13 years later she's dry as a bone. http://www.weepnomorellc.com/

I'm of the old school that flew the entire slow flight portion of my check ride with the horn blaring. It impressed my dpe (who was really old school...and old...and has since passed on.). However, I could get 100% behind this, especially if the stall warnings actually indicated something approximating a stall. Perhaps mine needs to be adjusted, but it goes off way above stall.

I'd look for a clogged vacuum filter. Mine goes around the vacuum regulator, which (in my '62) is on the back side of the firewall (toward the passenger compartment). My vacuum was high and we replaced the filter and now it is much better. Just thinking about it, I'm curious about all of the filters on the back of the instruments... They've been there for years, I wonder how they are flowing... hmmm... might be worth a check. James

You have a much higher risk of failure in new parts than you have at this point in the lifespan of an engine. The statistics show that gross malfunctions happen after bad maintenance or with infant mortality (new parts or assemblies breaking), not with old, tested parts. One of my airplanes has a bottom end that has over 3600 on major. It has had 2 sets of cylinders on it. The ONLY reason I need to do an overhaul on it is cam lifter spalling. Even there, I have been running it at the direction of my IA until it doesn't make rated power. A few oil leaks can be dealt with. As someone mentioned, if you are not showing oil pressure issues, and your cylinders are showing good compressions, there is NO need to overhaul/rebuild. It is, of course, your choice, but why spend the AMUs to repair that which isn't broken? Mike Busch has a webinar on this:

An overhaul is MUCH more than you would have to have done to drop the pan. Yes, there's a lot going on under there, but I would talk to a competent A&P or IA about the work involved before I would jump from oil pan gasket to overhaul. Perhaps your other items add up to an overhaul for you, but I think you're trying to throw $15-20,000 at a $2,000 (or less) problem. Just my $0.02, but from a CB, that's a lot of money...

Just received Manifold Pressure gauge. Thanks!

I thought those weren't available for the early models (pre-j). How'd you pull that off? Any RPM restrictions? If you don't mind, what was the cost?

I grew up with, "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a crayon, cut it with an ax."

What are you looking for for the manifold pressure gauge? There's nothing against new posters here, it just means that we are a little cautious about new posters who just post things for sale. James

Finally got time to install the Maggie Surefly Harness. What a difference! She ran like a Swiss Watch! Run away from the ACS harnesses! I would suggest that they were even shorter than that. 1/4" or more! Useless.

I tried to make a fuel stick when I was installing (and calibrating) my JPI. I failed miserably. I was trying to use a paint stir stick as suggested above, but the fuel soaked up all over the stick and I could never tell what level I was supposed to be marking. Oh well, the JPI is way more accurate than my old Garwin gauges... I Probably should have installed the digital senders that are available...

How much for the air cleaner surround? And possibly the toe brake cylinders?

Only if QRC_M20E wants to fly in rule airspace. I personally don't have $2,000-$6,000 to spend on replacing my transponder right now, so I am opting to remain outside of that rule airspace until I can get that money together. (the only real complaint I have is staying below 10,000ft. I don't have any charlie or bravo airports I frequent).

Well... I finally got the half harness from Maggie harnesses and carved out some time to work on the bird. If you look at the harnesses, the further away one is the one that has been on the plane. It's springs are rusty. I put my phone behind the surefly and took the other picture. You can see the rust on the plastic around the connectors... I'm sure that makes great contact... Now to install the Maggie Harness and see if I can get it to work correctly. Gotta check/clean the contacts before installing.

Eureka, SD 57437

I was considering the AI and the VSI, but checked out UPS shipping, it's over $300... Oof. Hope you can find a buyer closer to home.

Will do. I'm curious as well!

The world is dependent on the electrical system... It's not a big deal as long as the alternator/generator works. I've had too many failures of electrical systems to be comfortable (one on my long cross country during primary training). When I installed my JPI, I retained the Tach and the Manifold pressure gauge. If you've ever had a failure of one of those (I have), having a backup is a great thing. I have quite a bit into this install now, I hoped I would not have to use the replacement gear, but alas I did. I'm waiting for my second ignition harness (If this harness works, I'm going to look for a refund for the 1st one). I have heard about the higher CHTs, I don't know if I can afford those she runs hot enough as it is...I've thought of going to the fixed timing mode, we'll see. Wish it was on the right side of the engine instead of the left, so R&R would be easier. I never had hard starts, so that's not an advantage to me. I really like the idea of better spark and not having to worry about the 500 hour inspections... Having worked a lot on cars and small engines, I would expect the timing advance would be a good thing for gas mileage. As you say, we'll see.

Well, the Maggie harnesses with elbows is going to take at least 'till next week to ship... More down time. Is this worth it?

Yes, the "unchecked" screen remains with an oil filter adapter. I believe the "unchecked" screen that is being spoken of is behind #7 on the picture. As Carusoam said, it looks easy to get at in the picture...not so much in the aircraft. You have a remote mounted oil filter, that goes in place of the oil filter on the picture. Mine had a screen in the location of the oil filter, but that is replaced by the filter.

Need to mount an o-360 on it so that the future A&Ps can learn how tight it gets inside of a mooney cowl...