Ragsf15e

Airpower shows factory rebuilt for $34k. Zero time engine with accessories... For that money, I think I’d go with the factory vs more for a local shop.

Okracoke brings back memories. Gusty there. 10 foot sand dunes off either side make funny wind currents. Took my wife there for an early date. When we went to leave it was breezy. Cirrus did a low flyby. Assessing wind? I waited, hearing nothing on ctaf. Eventually I got tired and peeked out down the runway. Found the cirrus off the side. One wheel had gone off the egde of the runway into sand, spun the airplane 180, the tail had hit the dune and snapped the tail off behind the baggage area. Waited for the fire trucks from town. Once the fire truck and people were clear, asked my wife if she was ok taking off past the wreck... she was. We’re still married!

I have a full kcs55 HSI system with all the parts. It was even “tested” for a few years... I’m gonna be rich!

Yes, when the gear is down, it’s inhibited. With gear up, it’s controlled by throttle position. Easiest way to troubleshoot is with the airplane on jacks. Put up the gear with the throttle pulled back towards idle will/should engage the switch and activate the horn. As Carusam said, there’s a little divet on the throttle that hits the switch right after the throttle cable goes through the panel. It’s adjustable. Also, find the 5amp gear warning cb because that sound is really annoying right after takeoff.

Well said. Do you think you could move down here and run for a Senate seat? I’d vote for you!

Find out what level it leaks at. If it’s an acceptable fuel level for your mission, just stick with it. If it’s not, seek an experienced place for a patch. It’s not terribly hard, but it’s kind of an art finding and fixing inside a fuel tank.

Hank, are you talking about the stall warning? He’s talking about the gear warning. With full power it shouldn’t chirp or anything. The micro switch on the throttle is supposed to cut it off above about 13” manifold pressure. Additionally, it shouldn’t be going off with the gear down. Those are the two things required to make the gear warning sound - gear up and low mp. If it’s going off on takeoff, and your gear limit switches are working, the throttle switch is a likely place to look.

I have had this happen. First, I concentrated on flying the airplane carefully as it was close to the ground, heavy, right after initial takeoff with family on long trip. Then I located the gear warning cb and pulled it. Ahhh, silence.... At altitude, I pulled throttle slowly to idle (through the micro switch that causes the horn) and back to full power. Then I pushed in the cb. That worked for me. After the trip, I hit the switch with some LPS1 just for good measure. Likely some issue with the switch on your throttle. It’s right behind the panel on the throttle cable.

Surprised im the only one, but I created an excel spreadsheet. Very searchable, easy, import pictures of endorsements onto a special tab, etc. I print the new pages every few months so there’s a hard copy as well as back it up online.

Do you have another temp gauge to compare it to? Even a few degrees is going to make a difference depending on what you’re using it for. If it’s just there so you get a TAS readout on your G5 and you don’t use it to determine icing potential, it’s probably ok.

I also used casual sale in TX, and it wasn’t complicated. They did send a letter asking for buyer/seller info, but never heard about it again. When I moved to WA, I did research and realized I would likely owe use tax (8%). After about 6 months I got a letter to register my airplane in WA ($65/year). Step one of registering is providing a use tax receipt (you just pay it once. Previous paid sales/use tax from other states are deducted). So off I went to the tax office... here’s where just sitting quietly might be good... They asked for the type of airplane, year, serial #. Then I sat there while they googled some random aircraft blue book sites. There was no question of purchase price, engine time, avionics, etc. Eventually she said, looks like it’s worth about $30k, that’ll be $2400. I wrote a check.

Yes, tge UL is the thing I was going to caution him on. If you’re looking for a longer two person airplane, nothing wrong with a G. I certainly wouldn’t worry about the few knots. The manual gear is fine. My electric gear is good too, but there has been some extra expense for sure. I use all the 1035 UL of my F because I put the family of 4 in it and fly 500nm to grandmas house. That just wouldn’t work in a G, but if that’s not your mission, a G is fine. ~5 hours fuel (4 flying, 1 reserve), about 55 gallons, 330lbs. Just over 500nm. ~520 lbs of people, luggage, flight gear, survival equipment. 2 adults. Maybe 2 adults with 1 child? Does that fit your mission?

Yeah, if they don’t have one on the shelf, you’re in for a wait just about everywhere.

VA seems to have a very efficient tax system. They came after us a year after we moved out. Said my wife owed income tax even though we were there on a military move and she’s not a resident. It took a long time to fight them. In this case I’d write them a nice letter saying that I checked my records and they indicate that the airplane was in Virginia for less than 90 days. I’d leave it at that. Not on you to prove. Up to them!

Western Skyways may have one which would be fast. They have a solid reputation. I used them for cylinder overhaul and it was done on time and on quote. Jewell for an overhaul would be my next place to look.

Battery terminal or hot side of the master relay is allowed in the installation manual. Mine is on the relay for the reasons @47U said, but I only have 1 battery...

You will find out that your operation costs quickly grow beyond your purchase price. Quickly. I budget ~$18k /year for everything to cover ~80 hours (fuel, insurance, hangar, maint, etc). Usually this works out, but not always. If you need expensive engine work or buy new avionics, you’ll blow right past that. I’ve had $3,500 annuals and $13000 annuals. The inspection is typically $1500. The price I pay is usually ~$4-6k because it includes all the stuff that gets worked on. Fuel, hangar, and insurance (mostly) are known and relatively stable costs. Maintenance, engine work, and avionics are a great unknown. His $120k over 15 years seems about right.

I strongly suspect you’re going to be looking for a cherokee 6, saratoga, c-210, or Bo. The barn door loading would be a bonus, but I think you’ll need the extra room.

Ha! No. I don’t think SF says that, but I have seen that somewhere... maybe electroair? I did notice that I got a few more knots when LOP. This amounts to a small fuel savings in mpg. If you pull back the mixture further (or reduce MP or RPM) until you’re cruising at your pre-SF airspeed, you might see a little fuel savings, but 10% seems high to me. I’ve just been happy with the couple extra kts, smoothness, starting, and lack of maintenance.

I’m happy with my SF. Don’t expect to go noticeably faster, but it starts easier, runs smoother LOP, and should require less maintenance over its life.

Yes, that last part is true for sure. The ones that do go near it often don’t know how to troubleshoot, but are happy to throw parts at the problem. I have a new alternator and VR and field wire and alternator wiring. After none of that fixed my low voltage, I taight myself basic electrical and talked to a friend who does it for a living. $2k worth of new parts/labor and the problem turned out to be a corroded connection that I found and fixed myself.

Not an answer, but I noticed the same on my G1000 system at work when I started using Garmin navdata. I don’t think my previous Jepp navdata required it. Honestly, I just select the first vor listed even though it’s not on my clnc or route. That lets me load the DP but it won’t sequence to that vor because there’s a “man seq” leg in there. It does force you to pay close attention to your programmed flight plan.

Ahh, glad you found it. It’s common. There are some threads around here about fixing it. I am not an expert, but I think I remember some folks talking about doing this repair pretty carefully/specifically. It would pay to get some specific advice/plan before going in. I think some people use a sealer on the gasket. A litt google with “Mooney” in the search and you can find threads about leak at fuel sender. Good luck!

You’re going to have to thoroughly educate your installer after all the research you’ve done!

Definitely. While you’re doing this, the less probes, antenna, etc, the better. No need to make it look like a porcupine!