Ragsf15e

I put the gear up quick too! If I blow an engine and land straight ahead, I may get it back down, maybe not. If not, at least I’ll stop fast! I want to get airspeed and altitude quickly after takeoff to increase options. To the OP, I have hydraulic flaps too. My technique is to retract them at 100mph. I feel the “settle” slower than that a bit uncomfortable.

Interesting. I haven’t heard that and I have a GTX345. What is this patch supposed to do? We’d need one of our avionics folks to answer this.

You should probably see weather and traffic on the g3x too from the adsb, does that work?

I want to do this! What “power tool” exactly and what type of applicator was on it?

Do yourself a favor, get the ADSB traffic and weather working right first before throwing money at XM weather. Try it for a while. If you don’t like the free weather, you can always add on XM. You should not need any new equipment to currently get free weather and traffic.

Not sure how the original gauges were on the B-707s, but that’s similar vintage to our 60s Mooney. There’s plenty of good equipment for that these days and it’s not even cost prohibitive, but I wouldn’t wait for the Mooney Corporation to fix it for you...

The GTX345 should supply Adsb traffic and weather to the G3x (hardwired) and the gtn750 (Hard wired) and your ipad (via Bluetooth). If it’s not working the avionics shop probably needs to finish setting it up correctly.

You and your airplane definitely need to fly more. Something around 60hours a year depending on your prior experience is gonna be required for both of you to remain proficient and mechanically sound. Additionally, I’m all for new techniques, but tell me more about this “controls full aft” thing on normal takeoff and “getting more altitude quickly”... generally you want to accelerate in a normal takeoff attitude if there’s room because an engine failure at low speed and high pitch angle is less likely to end happily than one at a slightly lower altitude but higher airspeed and lower pitch.

In my opinion, a minimal oil leak that’s been stable for a good long time is not reason to open the can of worms involved in any type of MOH. I’m as anal as anyone out there, but clean it religiously and get use to it, then enjoy your engine for a couple hundred more hours until it actually needs OH. Just my 2 cents.

Actually I agree with you and can see only minimal, almost immeasurable gains in efficiency and/or LOP operation. They are there but probably not worth installation on their own. However, buying a new “mag” for $1200 that is supposed to last 2000hours maintenance free is a cost saver compared to the traditional mags cost, maintenance and overhaul over that same time. It’s still backed up by a traditional mag if it doesn’t work out. No way I would put two on right now, but the maintenance cost savings is nice if it pans out and I get the additional benefit of the admittedly small efficiency gain.

Yes, the 50 year old “traditional” fuel sensor systems are not good, however, any of the newer EIS systems (JPI 900, 930, Garmin, etc) can be paired with digital CIES fuel senders for an exact reading. I have a JPI 930 paired with the original (overhauled) sensor and it’s accurate to within a gallon and backed up by the separate fuel flow totalizer.

I think lyc is piggybacking on Surefly though... don’t they offer an electronic mag with some of their engines that’s simply a rebranded SF? I like my SF so far, but time will tell...

Just so you know... purchase price plus/minus $10-15k doesn’t even scratch the surface after a couple years ownership. Owning an airplane is not like buying a car, most of the cost is NOT the purchase, it’s the yearly expenses.

I agree, and yet Emag hasn’t been able to get theirs certified yet.

Agreed, those are an option, but if I was using it as a failsafe for my electric mags I wouldn’t want it connected to anything else in the electrical system. A total electrical failure is bad enough without the engine going silent for lack of spark! A PMA type arrangement self contained within the mag is probably the safest bet, but then we’re pretty much back to our traditional mags.

That’s how Emags works. Only it’s not yet certified.

So far only electroair and Surefly are approved and neither self generate. EMag has self generating mags but only experimental. They’ve been taking many years to try to bring it to certification. There are experimental guys flying with 2 Emags, but not for us yet.

Personally, I had both mags up for 500 hour service and I overhauled one and got a Surefly on the other.

Neither of the current approved electronic mags supplies its own power or has a backup power source. Too many things can go wrong in your electrical system to count on it. If the emags ever get certified with their own power, then maybe but they’ve been trying for a long time. They sound like BK at this point.

That is good speed... how much power was that? Greater than 75% I would think?

No matter what, that’s definitely amazing. Good speed at 10,500’. Just be careful trusting the 50 year old pitot system to be accurate. The poh has a ~4 mph subtraction to get from IAS to CAS and that doesn’t even account for airspeed indicator errors. The best way is to do a good 3 way groundspeed run and enter it in an online calculator. If you do this a few times you’ll get a feeling for how close your IAS is, but it’s likely showing faster than actual. As I said though, impressive no matter what!

How much did it set you back?

Definitely. I fly a Turboprop for work and it’s fine all winter. Yeah there’s bad icing at times but the climb and descent is fast enough that you are out of it pretty quickly. The turboprop is fine here. Ive been contemplating finding an Eagle with tks for flying in Eastern Washington in the winter. Usually we just have a thousand feet or so of clouds with icing from 1000-2000’agl and then it’s nice on top. It would really increase your dispatch options. Crossing the cascades in an NA airplane in the winter is still gonna be dicey. The minimum ifr altitudes are pretty darn high and right where icing is common. Even with tks, you don’t wanna plan on cruising in icing. I actually had a hard time getting to Portland from Spokane in mid June. Cool weather had clouds over the mountains and into the Columbia gorge. Min ifr altitudes are 7-9k. Freezing level is 7k. Ugh.

The POH for my 68F says the fastest TAS is found at 2500’ MSL on a standard day. 2700rpm, 27.5” mp, 98% hp, 180mph. Not sure anyone is actually gonna run that and have their engine survive for long. Sea level and 5,000’ charts show slightly slower at 2700rpm and full power. For 75%, the same POH shows 171mph at 10,000’msl, 2600rpm, 73.6% power. That’s about the fastest one I’ve found at 75%power. If you have cool weather, it’s reasonably fast up high, but loses speed quickly as it warms up and density altitude increases. In my experience with realistic power settings, ~6,5000-7,500’ is your best bet.

The PP voltage regs do have that adjustment, the Zeftronics VRs don’t have any adjustment. They sense the bus voltage and then automatically keep the alternator putting out appropriate output to maintain 13.8-14.2V ish. However, if you have old wiring and corroded connections, the resistance builds up and you’ll likely end up with a lower bus voltage. I think at times the PP adjustment is just masking the developing problem with our old wiring.