Ragsf15e

I definitely agree. Nice to have one manufacturer and all your information working together. This is only an example from my current G5s and jpi930, but I have a temp probe that feeds the jpi. It provides that info to my 430w. However, if I want tas and winds on my G5s, I will need to install another temp probe. Stick with Garmin and all data is available to all the components.

My personal airplane only has adsb wx. My work airplane only has xm-pro subscription. Neither does trips more than 500nm in a hop. In my opinion, there’s not much difference in the data given. There’s more differences in how the data is displayed between different systems. The work airplane with g1000 can give you a snapshot picture with color coded metars, radar, lightning, etc. Not so much on a 430w (although ipad / FF is better). I’d spend more time working on a good wx display plan for your type of flying vs which service. Just my 2 cents.

$46 for the correct parts isn’t stratospheric in this case. Sure it’s $45.50 markup, but it could easily have been $1500 or unobtainium. Just pay $50 and move on. Unnoticeable in your yearly airplane expenses.

If you live close to a state line and have the ability to keep the airplane in either state, it’s definitely worth researching how it will be taxed - what tax each state has, how they decide (home address, faa registration, aircraft hangar location), yearly vs 1 time fee, etc. you could potentially use an llc based at your hangar vs home address?

Cht monitoring is nice, however chts are lower when running lop. It is important to have all 4 (or 6) EGTs so you can ensure you are really lop on each cylinder, but you’ll find that the chts are definitely less than rop. If you are very close to peak on the rich side, you will get warm chts.

Or G5s. I’d likely do the -275s first just based on form factor, but save a little cash with G5s. I wasn’t sold on installing the rsm for an E5 and the basic e5 isn’t a full HSI (but it’s still fairly nice).

Yes. We did it from the hot side of the master solenoid (right next to the battery) which is allowed. Yes, that was the hardest part. Not running the wire, but taking out and replacing the interior.

I just had my regular mechanic do mine. He read the directions and had it done pretty quickly. I removed the interior and ran wire for him. Surefly is easy if you follow the directions. Setting timing is important to get right, but it’s not rocket science. The instructions aren’t bad. I’ve been really happy with mine, but it’s on a 14v system. I’d wait for the improved version for a 28v. in my opinion, no need to go to a special shop for the install.

Different airplane, similar but different system… I’ve seen prop ice when just below freezing air temps. Formed about the same time as on the wings. I suspect the 2500ish rpm prop cools itself pretty quickly to ambient temp even though the hub might be slightly warmer.

I’m gonna preface by saying I’m no ee or a&p… however, I’d check the solenoid is very well isolated/insulated from the frame. The master supplies grounding, so if it’s getting a ground elsewhere it’ll stay on.

Get a voltmeter / cigarette lighter plug in. At least you’ll have voltage there. Cheap on amazon and a good start.

Yet another reason to lean aggressively on the ground.

I have an F so it’s slightly different, but You really need to be 100% sure you know what you’re doing. Never try to put up the gear with the emer system engaged. Pull the gear cb prior to doing the extension. My “Mooney cfi” had me do it on my checkout flight. He knew about 75% of how it worked. We got the gear down ok, but the emer system was still engaged when we put it up and it almost took off my left knee winding back up. Not good for it!

I don’t have the specifics but it’s been done recently. It’s on this sote as well as YouTube and FB.

Fair enough, but would you buy a “new” dme and put it in your new glass panel in the US?

Yeah lots of higher flying airplanes (Sr22T) have a minimum temp around -40c and it’s pretty rare to get there even in the upper 20,000’s in the winter. I’d be happy with the better grease.

it only works with personal sales, not with from brokers who have purchased the airplane to sell it.

I don’t think so. This from the Texas comptroller website and your average personal airplane sale meets the first circumstance. Your example was the second circumstance, but it definitely says either… Occasional Sales by Individuals If you occasionally sell personal items, you may qualify for the "occasional sales" exemption. If you qualify, you do not need a sales tax permit, and you do not collect tax on those sales. You can qualify for an occasional sales exemption if you meet either of these requirements: You only sell one or two taxable items during any 12-month period (not just January-December) – the price of the items does not matter. Example – you sell a piano for $400 and a bicycle for $200 at a garage sale in a 12-month period. You later sell your used lawn mower for $100 before the end of that 12-month period. Selling the lawn mower is a third sale, so you must get a sales tax permit and collect and pay sales tax on the lawn mower. You sell in a calendar year (January-December) items originally bought for you or your family members for personal use, and you don’t make more than $3,000 on those sales during the calendar year. You can sell as many items as you want to as long as your total sales are $3,000 or less during a calendar year.

Don’t you have a J? I think the RAM air didn’t help nearly as much when they improved the intake on the J. It’s worth it on the F, especially if you fly up high.

If it’s a private seller and buyer (not a business), there’s a casual sale exemption in Texas. I did it. It wasn’t difficult. However when I moved to Washington, there was no exemption and I had to pay the Washington use tax. Dont worry though, Texas is just like every other state, they get their tax money from somewhere!

It gives about a .75” of manifold pressure bump on the older airplanes (e/f). I cruise at low power too, but I definitely use the Ram air (this thread was about alternate air which is different). If you’re at 9,500’, and full throttle in an NA airplane, you’ll still be at low power with the Ram air open. It adds about 2-3 kts. The early Js had a better intake though, so probably helps less.

Does the G3x work with your autopilot?

Id do everything possible to put in an ifr gps now. A Garmin 355 or the avidyne is fine. You’ll get the dme, and so much more. Even if everything else is steam gages, legally going direct and flying gps approaches is a whole new world. Find a friend getting rid of a 430w. Buy it cheaply. Have it installed. Swap with an avidyne when you’re ready - it’s a slide in replacement. Problem is used 430s are still pricey because they’re still very useful.

I can comment on this… F-15 profile goes to 9 gs just like the F-16. F-22 and -35s have a different/better g suit setup. The f-16s do have a slight difference in seat incline. The actual airplane can sustain 9gs in flight (F-16) or something more like 8 (F-15). A normal, athletic person can’t do that without a g suit and training and currency. Someone who knows how to strain and has very strong legs/abs might tolerate 8 gs for say 15”, but it is very hard work. A random 70 year old, not so much. At ~22 years old and reasonably fit, I did the F-15E profile. Part of it is a resting g tolerance. No strain, no suit. When the world starts to grey out you’ll can start to strain. I was about 3.5 gs. I passed the centrifuge course at 9gs that day. Straining properly is the most effective and the g suit adds about 1, but it also helps you strain. It is exhausting for any length of time. Until you’re really use to it, you’re exhausted after a BFM sortie fighting another jet. The centrifuge is one of the worst experiences ever. You’ve never been so exhausted, dizzy or sick in your life.

Buy a $100k F instead of a $300k O. Minimize taxes by 1/3. Either of those will be really nice. I live in a state with a high use tax. When I moved here I tried but couldn’t find a hangar in neighboring Idaho which would have saved some. Washington sent me a nice letter my first year so I went to pay the 1 time tax. They didn’t ask for or have any purchase info from my purchase 2 years before. Just asked some basic questions (no questions about the engine time or avionics) about the airplane and gave me a tax value. It was very fair, so I wrote a check. While it does hurt, the onetime tax payment is likely less than operating expenses for the first two years. Mine was actually less than 1 year of fuel.