Ragsf15e

I also teach folks the simple math to get the descent gradient when it’s not published. Say a vdp on a non precision approach or multiple stepdowns such as this. Some people like the math more than the charts. I’m sure you guys knew these, just thought I’d chime in in case someone likes the math. A little practice and you can quickly do it in your head. alt (in 100s) / nm = degrees So 4000’/6nm = 40 / 6 = ~6.5 degrees usually 90kts gs (1.5nm/min) or 120kts gs (2nm/min), so 6.5 degrees x 1.5 nm/min = ~1000ft/min for creating your own 3 degree vdp if none is published: alt (in 100s) / 3 = VDP distance from runway so 900’ MDA gives 900’ / 3 = 3nm

You do hear that a lot, but my old 3 blade mccaully on my F seems fine. I have heard a few folks that thought theirs had more vibration than a 2 blade, something about 3 blades on a 4 cylinder, but hasn’t been my experience.

Was that on the work order / estimate?!

This is a good point about takeoff. I typically don’t use full rich for runup, and I relean after runup, but you want to make damn sure you’re full rich (or leaned appropriately at high altitude airports) when you takeoff. Leaning during climb is ok if you know how. Easier with an engine monitor.

There’s a setting in the engine for idle mixture adjustment. If it’s not perfect, you can be too rich at idle. If leaning more solves it and you want to dig deeper, that might be a place to start. In my experience (slightly higher altitude airport), I need to lean on the ground no matter what.

So with an engine monitor it would be easier to isolate the issue, so our leaning questions are a stab in the dark, however, how do you lean for taxi? Most of us will start the engine, set 1000-1200 rpm, check oil pressure, then pull the mixture back until the engine starts to stumble. Like actually sputter a little, then twist it in enough to just barely make it smooth. If you add power to taxi, the engine will sputter and maybe die if you don’t add a slight bit more, then take it back out when you go back to idle. For runup there are various techniques, but somewhat more rich is fine, no reason for full rich though. Below 65% power you can set mixture anywhere and not hurt anything. On the ground all you get from rich mixture is fouled plugs and potentially some cht cooling if you have to sit in very hot temps for a long time. Im not saying you are fouling plugs, but it’s one of several possibilities. Leaning very aggressively on the ground usually stops that issue completely. In the air, do what you were already doing.

So to elaborate on @MikeOH question… what do you do with the mixture immediately after starting the engine? Describe it exactly…

Sometimes it helps to take a step back and see what’s causing you to bust altitudes on an approach because maintaining altitude/changing altitude is a basic ifr flying skill. Typically I’ll find people misprioritizing secondary tasks (comm, checklist, etc) or being behind. So what’s my recommendation? Make sure all your pre-approach checklists and approach brief are done before the IAF or before base in a radar pattern. You will have to do your before landing checklist before the FAF but that’s it. I usually shoot for 1nm prior so I’m configured and stable starting the descent, but there are other techniques. That checklist must be memorized and done expeditiously, but then checked (gear!). Done right, you should have the approach plate on your lap, easy to read and be concentrating only on flying until the before landing check. I do say each altitude leaving and the next one during my concentration. Yes, there may be one or two radio calls in there and a switch to tower, but again, tower freq should already be already accessible/entered in a radio before you hit the IAF. Practice comm so you do it second nature because your number 1 focus needs to be on flying. If you’re leveling off and you ignore them for a few seconds, fine.

I think the Dynon is another good option if you don’t want Garmin or maybe already have Avidyne gps units. Just be aware that the dynon autopilot isn’t approved yet for Mooney. It should be at some point, but you’re betting on them finishing that as you’ll be locked in. Aviation approval timelines work on the decade scale. I’m pretty confident it will be done this decade. Past that, anyones guess. If you need/want an upgrade now, Garmin is your option (and you’ll still likely wait 6months or more for parts/scheduling). You could also install a Dynon pfd without the autopilot as that is approved and wait on the autopilot for now. There are several folks on MS that have done this.

There’s a fun place I go for breakfast sometimes (1S9) where you park on one side, walk down the taxiway, cross the approach end and walk to the golf course for food. Airport even supplies a golf cart if desired. 9 out of 10 times, the airport manager will cross over from his house on his Segway to say hi. On the way back I always notice the official looking FAA sign saying something like “No entry, active runway, unauthorized entry punishable by fines of $1,000…”. Im sure there’s some rule that you’re not supposed to, but I’ve never seen or heard of a problem (35 years of GA). & @N201MKTurbo a buddy and I did do a “very expeditious” FOD check on a USAF aux field runway once, but we were in the same car, so no drag racing!

Oh, jeez, I didn’t realize that. That’s a long time.

Possibly, or maybe basic med? I’m not sure exactly when it started if a 2001 medical would have qualified?

Says a Canadian?!

I’m not saying Kerville has great adsb, but depending on the coverage, it’s used to deconflict vehicles and airplanes during low vis at bigger airports. If it’s getting a valid signal from the airplane on the ground, it’s got a valid waas posit. None of that matters in my opinion as we don’t know who did the maintenance, but we do know that the Mooney factory service center did not. Jonny cleared that up.

You can find a lycoming recommendation “for maximum engine longevity” to cruise below 75% power. Which also would allow leaning per the poh, and the key numbers work there as well. It all kind of comes together at 75% power or less. However, if you’re racing and don’t care about ff or longevity, perhaps greater than 75% power becomes a better cruise option.

As @Shadrachsaid, the “hottest” egt isn’t really a thing. The egt number values don’t matter. Use the egt trends to find your leanest cylinder. Set 100rop from that. So no matter the value, first egt to peak is the leanest. Use that one even if another egt is “hotter.” Also, a lot of people will cruise below 75% power which will help. Not a concern up higher when thin air forces that but down low might require a small power reduction. Either from poh guide or key numbers as @Hank said.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but there’s only really 2 possible “rates”… Avemco does their own thing and you have to call them, or any insurance broker gets you a quote from the remaining 2(?) aviation insurers? So i use Airspeed because Parker has excellent service, but the “rate” he gets me should be exactly the same as AOPA, Hardy, or Joe’s Dirt Cheap Insurance (i made that one up). So you got Avemco or the brokers, 2 rates, no?

My ack seems fine. New battery is expensive every 4 years but that’s probably similar to others.

In the absence of someone with actual knowledge of this, I found this on kitplanes. It shows the rpm pickup plugging into the side of the mag. Jpi also has magnetic pickups for edms. I’m guessing I have that type. It seems to only be required on one mag and will pickup rpm whether or not the mag is actually firing because it’s sensing the rotation. I think this is what my mechanic switched to the other side. It fits in the mag vent hole/cover. Tachometer Traditionally, tachometers have been mechanical devices driven off a dedicated output at the back of the accessory case, but now electronic tachometers are more common, either as standalone units or as part of an engine management system. If the mechanical tachometer drive is not used, a small cap available from aviation supply sources should be installed and safety wired in place. The sensors commonly used for electronic tachometers or EMS units screw into the side of one of the magnetos and connect with standard aviation wire. Electronic ignition systems often have an output for engine rpm built in. A magnetic tachometer pickup screws into the vent hole in a Slick magneto. When using electronic ignitions, the manufacturer typically provides a lead that can be used for rpm sensing.

We need a mechanic to chime in, but I don’t have any special converter and I do have rpm running on either mag.

I’m sure it’s good, but if you wanted to know your actual tas, do a 3 way gps run and input the groundspeeds into an online calc. Or at least do a 4 way groundspeed test and average them (which is close but slight Off depending on wind). You can use the real tas to work backwards to your ias and see what the actual error is in your asi. If you don’t care about accuracy, only about trends, the tas page on the 430 is good.

I believe you, I was just joking. However, now that you mentioned it… did you use the TAS calc page on the gns430? Because if you do that, your answer includes installation error (ias to cas) and any errors in your 55 year old asi/pitot lines.

To me it might also depend on how fast it was moving and building. If it’s moving/building fast, ADSB becomes even worse as a tactical guide (it’s already not a tactical guide). Mark 1 eyeball is still good but tougher with fast buildup knowing how long to get past. Doesn’t sound like you did anything wrong. If there was obviously buildup to high tops, anvils, lightning, then I wouldn’t get so close as you did. Also if I was imc (embedded) I’d definitely be more cautious.

…And an airspeed indicator adjustment…

I don’t doubt you as I’m not a good mechanic, but I have a SF on the left and an edm930. I was there during the installation of the SF and remember my mechanic saying he was switching the pickup to the right. Maybebi misheard him? Are there really 2 rpm pickups feeding the rpm gage?