Yetti

They can be changed as is. Undo hoses first. Go though the starboard side to get the fuel line on that side. There was one suggestion to remove the left mag. Not sure that would have helped much. There was another suggestion of using ball socket allen hex. 5/16" The one supplied was too long about 4". Cutting an extra hex key to about 2" and then using a long socket on seemed to be the trick for the back hex cap bolt. Flexible head ratchet. The safety wire was not too bad. Make sure the plunger pin can fully retract. Start low with the pump. Fully insert, then come up to get the plunger pin, staying centered (the pump not your mental well being) insert the bolts. Maybe put some permetex on the gasket to keep it on the pump. There was a big thread on if there should be a shroud around the pump with a scat hose going to it. for some models the factory drawing deemed the shroud was omitted and the hose just blows on the pump. Not as easy as the one on the left side of a V8 15 minutes or so. More like 2 hours.

The plane is already jacked up for the manual gear extension inspection. Pull the panel, Pull the actuator, lube. Reinstall, swing the gear (Also part of the annual) Maybe 4 hours if you are slow.

I have an Odyssey battery in the motorcycle and I just can't kill the thing. Would there be anyway to get this one in a Mooney? http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries/sbsj16.htm My understanding is there is a bigger size that some people will put in their Pipers I know the battery is listed in the Type data sheet

Mine has the ITT. Don Max's write up suggests ITT be treated like the Duke.

Not that hard to pull the panels. Couple of hours. A $9.00 Harbor Freight electric screw driver helps. Rustoleum spray paint is holding up fine. Just cleaned the velcro glue off and sprayed.

As my transition instructor said. "If you can't get is slowed down for a landing, maybe your gear is still up" The gear does make pretty good speed brakes, just out of the bottom of the wing

Don Maxwell has sealant numbers listed on his how to patch a tank page. If you google there is an RV article about sealants

The down hill at 11R will get you the first couple of times, You flare, the runway leaves you, You flare, the runway leaves you. 11R is where the plane is stored, so landing on a flat runway give me "oh no that looks different" for a second when I fly elsewhere.

Somewhere I am remembering that over tightening a compression fitting like those will cause them to fail like that one did right at the ferrule.

Chief or aircraft spruce has sealant. Trying to figure out which one can be a fun exercise. Best I could find for tools is autobody tools. There are Hyde plastic scrapers and plastic smoothers. Seems like the same as working with epoxy and glass...

For an F Downwind 1.2 miles away from the runway. 15" in the pattern At the threshold, gear down Pull to idle Do a u turn to the runway. You will have lots of energy to work with. Throw the flaps out

So system wise. g1000 already has TIS traffic. What box sends that? What is the data format? Emulate that protocol and and send it to the same input on the G1000. That should not cost 9 AMUs

Theoretically if you want to be compliant, you could install an independent solution such as Freeflight or Lynx for $2.5 AMU It just would not show up on the big panel mount screen and you would have to run an Ipad/Android for traffic

The origin of the question is can a better insert be made for the guppy mouth? Apparently the current lower insert by Laser does nothing for speed. The JPI mod seems to increase speed but is of dubious quality due to the fiberglass parts. I was thinking an aluminum insert for the lower and upper cowls. Something that would rivet onto the very wide and rounded surface area that is in place. The J fiberglass upper cowl seems to have it's own issues. Why not keep the nice sturdy alum upper cowl and just do some modding.

Edges to the front of the aircraft are slow....

Steel is real... until it anit. As you can imagine large furry creatures need custom frames. I have a china mtn bike Ti and a Steamboat springs CX bike. The way the Moots people tuned the frame was interesting. They put a very large downtube on it. I would think there would be lots of tuning of the Mooney cage that could be done with Ti. Using some larger dia tubing in the right places you could probably make it even stronger and lighter at the same time. Maybe expensive as all get out to fix, but they should probably add a cromolly sacrificial skid pad for the gear up the mtn bike gets covered in limestone dust then highly corrosive yetti sweat gets mixed in. The al water bottle cages I just took off had intergranual corrosion on them. The Ti frame I just wiped down with some silicone. Makes me want to build a Ti Frame BearHawk

If the cage were made out of Ti that would be pretty neat. Maybe like one of my bike frames have it welded up by 12 year old unemployed Mig fighter workers in china, then ship over. Lighter than cromolly and no corrosion.

Most of the M20F ADs are for earlier years than 1975. Seems like you could pay an A&P to do a AD report and sign it off. The comment about an engine rebuild prior to the current logs is valid

I could see the back ones with the seat reclined being good for sleeping. I put none of mine back in on the redo. Some day I may do the ones for the back...

So by keeping my 170B that seem to work just fine except for having the pull the face plates and realign the knobs when they skip a tooth, Takes about 20 minutes. I am saving $25 an hour in flying costs. Yipee

Instructions for a stock Mooney one http://dovesnestfarm.com/wordpress/mooney-headrest/

Then I update mine. $5.75/qt * 6 + 18.75 filter * 3/year or $159.75 Of course Mrs. Yetti (used to work in HR) said if you charge for your time you would have to add $600 to the total. But I get the discount factor of getting to work on the plane and not sit behind a keyboard and that brings it down back to $0 for time.

Oh Snap. I do my best work when asleep. What is the first mod you do to a corvette? Replace the mass airflow sensor. So Ardiuno and mass air sensor http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=3690.0 Why are the inlet holes centered between the cowls? Why not put them in the upper cowl maybe more outboard? Seems like it would be a more direct path to move the air in and across the cylinders, then through the fins.

It seems like wind tunnel testing. Would be the way to answer lots of my questions. It was interesting to learn how much the Wright Brothers built wind tunnels and test rigs. Should the inlets be inboard or farther out? Is there just way more airflow than the engine needs to stay cool? Seems like to optimize it and not use a wind tunnel whoever mentioned a Ardiuno with some thermocouplers recording lots of temperatures and airflow in 4 places would be best. Yarn pieces taped all over the cowl and running the engine would be a fun video for showing ground ops cooling.