Yetti

I would be surprised to be able to get a nut on the back side. If the holes are wallered out, Move over a bit and then alum tape the old holes. You could also go to a #6 screw but that may make it harder to hook the rod. Deduct the weight savings from your W&B and enjoy the extra couple knots speed increase. Stainless screws are good for a .005 knot increase.

Realizing of course the 1970s planes roll cage was painted with real epoxy paint and it should not be as big a concern. For 60s planes yes a concern.

I would think: Don't really want fiberglass parts being blown around the radios and cabin. There is positive ventilation provided up there from the starboard side intake vent and clear line. Don't want water logged stuff on top of electronics Don't want insulation blocking the airflow to the radios and such. As far as sealing the access panels. Pulled the gunky foam out of the channels. stainless wire brushed the glue out. Used two part contact cement below to put in I believe 1/2" round caulk backer (Ace Hardware - maybe says for driveways). Plane has not been in the rain to see if it works, but by my shade tree gineering I can't see why not.

I still think there is room for some enterprising person to make a conversion to firestone air bags

Nice work. I repainted the leather accent on the panels and the arm rests with regular Rustolem from wally world just to annoy Big Tex. It has held up very well. The Rustolem on the panels is doing very well also.

My lottery plane is a Pilatus

Are you sure that did not drop from above when the filter came off?

I am kind of with Bonal on this. A $2 AMU pre buy (1 AMU the prebuy and 1AMU on logistics) on a $35K plane is a lot of money compared to $2 AMU on $250 AMU plane. And you now don't have the 2 AMU to spend on fixing it up. Which you will most likely be spending anyways pre buy or not. I missed that it had been in annual for the last 2 years. I am also thinking the engine rebuild it prior to all the bad metallurgy years. Older engine rebuild is not always a bad thing. See if they will give you a copy of the AD compliance list One of your negotiating points is that they are a long way from most buyers

One of the seat backs was not put in correctly. Yes redid all of the interior in leather and new carpet for $750 and a $70.00 sewing machine and 4 needles.

The reclining tops spring pins are on the outside pivot point. There is an L spring loaded rod that you pull. Then move the top to the inside and the inside pivot point will let go. The earlier comment about backs in first before seat bottom I don't think will work. The seat belt on the outside has to go over the spring loaded pin. Going straight down seemed to work best to get them in. Along with a flash light. It is not easy.

" an interesting project" Do you just want to fly or work on things and have a great plane when you get done fixing it. I would say $10K to fix it up to airworthy not including avionics. Engines are a crapshoot.

If you have the strip of carpeted card board between the seats and the baggage compartment they are under there And how long are the rear rods? And who's fault is it that I did plane things without getting to fly? Grumble Also found that the bottom of the new seat that I sewed is an inch longer than the original. Time to stitch in a new seam.

pictures at 11:00

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches/pushbutton-switches/1114209?k=push+button+switch&pv183=23&pv130=1&pv235=9&FV=fff40011%2Cfff80061&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

They must have gone to J yoke in 76. or it was converted. My Mongo 75 yoke definitely have the map light on the left side down below the PTT.

yep two rods. I think the back clips line up with the outside edges of the covers. just behind the last row. Not sure the back clips are that necessary for it all to work. Some how when I sewed my seat up it was a bit long so the rear is not clipped.

The rebuilt fuel pump seems to run at 30psi at full throttle

I was under the impression that Mooney test flys the planes unpainted. Then paints them. Best I can tell Mooney painted with all the control surfaces on the airframe.

If you hook the rear first, then hook the front rod, not so bad to do. Sitting on the seat compresses the spring

My hooks are put in with #4 screws. The same screws as the covers to the spar area. I have the split removeable seat backs. It is easier to put the seat backs in then the bottom cushion. The seat belts make the two rod thing for the rear retention necessary.

Being able to stop the flow of thick oil in a down angle seems to be the key to eliminating drips. I cut half off half the flexible tubing. You can bend the tubing to cut the flow along with the valve at the bottle. I learned not to have the dipstick in while trying to add oil

I think it would make a mess that no one would want to clean up. Moving further south would work better

I love looking at the pictures of snow.... From Texas

And I did repair one split on a window plastic with Goop since I was in a hurry. Seems to be holding up so far.

do you have electric trim? Now I am going to have to look again.