Tim Jodice

How much do the extensions cost from Mooney?

Buy in to a Baron with 3 other people

Why would you do just 4?

I am not a ROP vs LOP operator, I do what I think works best to keep the cylinders below 380 and get the most power out of the engine. How I do that is this, if it is a low density altitude I fly about 20-50 LOP at 2500 RPM or higher. In the winter I will run up to 85% power (11.5GPH) if I am hitting a strong headwind. Summer will usually take what ever I can get unless Boston keeps me real low(2500MSL) which rarely happens or I have a nice tail wind. Around 8-9000 density altitude i will run peak, higher than that 50ROP. The one thing this all revolves around is CHT of 380 or less. If that means 200FPM climb so be it. Approaching 600 hours it has not caused any problems with the exception of the electrode breaking but based on what I have read here it doesn't matter how you run your engine. I originally bought the fine wire plugs for reduced maintenance the other benefits were a nice bonus. Not sure it is related but I when I first got this airplane I did 50 hour oil changes but around 35-40 hours it was using a quart about every 3 hours compared to 6-7 with clean oil so i now do 25 hour oil changes. I use Philips victory oil with no additives.

This was me.

I had Tempest fine wire plugs and one lost a center electrode. The local service center didn't have fine wire in stocks so i bought tempest massive plugs. I noticed a difference in how it started and a difference in mag drop and it doesn't run LOP as well. Minor differences. Tempest was very responsive and asked me to send all of them in for evaluation and sent me a new set of fine wire plugs. I like the finewires because of how the engine runs. That said if the Tempest break again I will try Champion. My A&P said champion made in the past few years don't have the high resistance issues.

Are Acclaim engines that much?

1:1 for me

I had a slow cranking problem that ended up being a starter but the battery was checked first. My 3 year old concord 35-AXC passed the capacitive test at 112%. That said I would think a 3 year old sealed gill would pass as well.

Sorry to hear about you experience. I had a similar experience with my first airplane. You don't know what you don't know. Nice to see your positive attitude now that the airplane is done and performs as it should. I think it is great that the shop kept you involved and showed you first hand what the problems were. While a very expensive annual you got to see for yourself why it cost what it cost and not show up to pick up you airplane and have a huge unexpected bill.

Both. Next time I am at the shop I will take pictures of regular baffles.

When you down for annual send youy current baffles and he will use them as templates. As long as the ones that you have now fit well when they were new his will be awesome likely a better/thicker material than you have now.

I don't think that @GEE-BEE has a website. just reach out to him on Mooneyspace.

When I bought the plane in the winter I thought it was difficult to keep cool. My reference was a 67 M20F that I had flown for a few years that was easy to keep cool even in the summer. The original baffles were not horrible (so I thought) some light was visible where the baffles meet the cowling and were wrinkled in some places. Spoke to @GEE-BEE and learned about cooling stuff from him. I ordered a set from him and put them on at annual in February. They brought the CHTs down about 20-30 degrees. I still need to keep an eye on it in the summer but i can only imagine how bad it would have been with the old baffles. I installed the baffles and having never done it before I was really happy how it came out. No trimming and no wrinkles. It sealed everywhere. I didn't realize how bad the old ones were until I checked how no light came through when shining a light through the hatch on top of the cowling.

A great year it was, it is a perfect match for the flying i do. Like many I still look on controller and look at bigger better faster it take but 30 seconds to realize that I already have an awesome airplane. Special thanks @MarkD34M for all kinds of help while buying the airplane, @FoxMike for propeller advice, @GEE-BEE for awesome baffles to help get my temps down and many others with nick nack questions. Lurkers here in the area that are interested in a Mooney but have never sat/flown in one reach out if you would like to. 3 years ago a friend did it for me and it is a big reason I now own one. Took a new friend flying Thursday and now he is looking for a M20C instead of a 172. What is your story? How long have you owned your Mooney?

Your going to love it!

I wonder how many airframes it will be STCed for. If they say $50,000 figure 65 when you done with the other airframe specific parts and the "while you are in there" items.

I didn't think that wide decks were made in the 60s. I say that because a 64 M20E that is maintained by the same shop as I do has a narrow deck engine. Do you know what year they changed?

I can't find the app. I searched simply "aircraft power". What am I missing?

I dont think your engine is original to the airplane. I say that because it looks like you have a wide deck engine and if it there will be no surcharge from lycoming even if you want a different engine say an IO-390. If it is a narrow deck you would need to get a rebuilt or new. You might want to go that way anyway to get the roller cam.

Only you can make a seal for a heater box look good.

Thats great it lasted so long. Any cylinders or repairs along the way?

How much time is on your engine? What year was it built?

$750 plus install to keep warts off your glareshield. No wires, no batteries. That looks like an awesome way to get ads-b in.

@bmcconnaha Have you flown your Mooney with the 390?