MB65E

StreamLight stylus pro!!! They are usually on the snap on rig. $27 on Amazon. 2 AAA batts. High powered LED, I buy them as gifts. They are awesome in the shop. Usually always have one on hand. Push button switch. The stupid mag lights always need to twist on, then you pull a dead lamp out of your pocket as it rolled and turned itself on 5hr earlier. If anyone finds one in New Orleans... it's mine!!! -matt

Where are you located? I'll take an IPC check with him in my E...That would account for some time. I had about 3 hrs in M20C's with a few buddies. Then another 40 or so in an M20M with a friend. At the time Falcon didn't require any E time for me. My partner with 3000k hrs, 2500 multi, and 2700 retract was actually required to obtain time in the E before he was covered. They can make up whatever times they feel comfortable with. We have been happy with Falcon. -Matt

I saw them at OSH too... The entire time I was thinking "yea right" no way they can make this work for the angle valve... Sure enough. nope! Bummer! Another reason for you guys with your C's. Lol. -Matt

The Extra 400 had the similar Continental. They were really trying hard to make the engine work, but the -400 didn't do too hot sales wise either. It would be neat to see reworked, because I bet you could get the cooling drag down to nothing. Maybe Continental should have consulted with Rotax a bit more. However, A "Liquid Cooled Rocket Ship" has a nice ring to it. -Matt

The camp ground has 110v outlets. There is a Target and I think even a Best Buy in town. The Fly Market might have a DC 12v cigarette lighter or something like that. I think GO Pro may have their tractor trailer there. They might have one. I know a lot of camera guys use the power stations to charge their cameras. -Matt

Skytec has always had amazing Customer Service. I had an old LS on my E that lasted more than 25 years and 1200hrs. I replaced it at overhaul with another LS. The old one was still working. I'd rather have the NL, but I didn't have a spare core at the time. They are a great family company!! -Matt

Check inside the exhaust. Some times the muffler comes apart from the inside and makes a horrible racket. -Matt

I find rotating the tube in the housing 180° helps spin the seal enough that it reseals. It just puts fresh seating area on the seal. -Matt

Jet Aviation has always been great. I find my myself there once or twice per year. -Matt

Some older IA's may only dial the crank and let it fly on a prop strike. To be honest all that is required is to inspect the crank gear, dowl pin, and to change the bolt with new locking tab. To comply with the factories inspection guidelines, I don't believe you need to even split the case. I wouldn't touch it if some one wanted me to sign it off with out splitting the case. Espically after 42 years. -Matt

Maybe I shouldn't go to Oshkosh tomorrow either? Looks awesome!! -Matt

Hang in there!! My airplane partner and I have named our 65E "Patients" -Matt

Welcome EIR! Currently I work as an IA in SoCal for a part 91 operation. The Mooney stays anywhere I can find space for it. Airplane partner lives in the Bay Area and we make it work. Past work included 10 years on the airshow circuit maintaining a few preformers airplanes. Slightly addicted to aviation. My wife puts up with it. However, We need to start actually taking vacations instead of traveling to cool places to work on airplanes. ... Headed to Oshkosh on Sunday... -Matt

Haha!! That's the place Chris!! Thanks, -Matt

I took my right aileron off to be reskinned due to some hangar rash I wanted to take care of. I had a nice used aileron I had with great paint and minimal filler. It was at the limit of 9.2 oz at the trailing edge. I stripped the aileron and started over. (Don't quote me on the oz limit, please look it up, but I remember it was at the aft balance limit) Williams Aero in North east Indiana can do wonders in their sheetmetal shop. Factories send their flight controls to them for repair! Awesome place!! -Matt

Sorry to here about your airplane. These airplanes are truly awesome! However, I really don't get the market. You painted the correct picture with regards to the market. So the thing is scrapped and you get a check. Now what do you go buy? That's where the real value of working and improving the airplane comes from. You couldn't touch the next nicest one for the amount they will sign the check for. I have been asked what would I buy if I had to sell ours. There is not a single airplane that will replace its form fit and function for the same price. This is why a lot of people don't carry a hull. But, If anything happened to ours, I'd take the money and go buy a cherry fabric wing Luscombe. As for the repairs, I'd try and fix it. I would not fill the ailerons. They are aft CG with just a few coats of paint on them. The light weight fillers are good, but not when it's probably at the limit already. -Matt

Well shoot, if you get the engine with a clean airframe and a 530W with an Autopilot... If it's priced as run out, that's still a lot of boxes that are checked. The Airframe corrosion is the largest box I believe. Double check the troubled corrosion areas on the airframe and have fun!! I thought you were looking at a core engine... If the airframe only has 1600TT too that's really low now days... -Matt

Haha, as for last night, I had traveled to Chicago, and was still on California time. I don't do FB, so Mooneyspace, and eBay for tools, car, and airplane parts is it for me. I used to actually read magazines, now I just look at pictures. Lol -Matt

Pete, You could probably go back with the same rivet. But you'll need a small strip of aluminum on the back side, so it won't pull thru the leather. The bad part is that backing plate will spin when you try and drill it out. The tinnermens and screws shouldn't spin. I would not recommend rivets. -Matt

Oh crap Tommy!! Looks like yours are riveted in!! All those little -3 pop rivers around the jam will need to be drilled out. I'd go back in with PK screws and tinnermen clips. I grabbed some leather and rope and made my own. Usually a 3/8" to 1/2" piece of foam or rope will work for the inner material, then wrap it with the leather or fabric. Finally stitching one seam close to the edge of the rope. Leave about 1.5" past the edge to fasten it to the aircraft. Lots of patients with the screws and tinnermens going back together. Where are you at? I have a friend down in TAZ that flies out of Davenport I believe. -Matt

You'd still need to buy the STC for the barnstormer adds.. . I think John Breda, was trying to sell his 360 system completely new, all drawings, paperwork, STC, turbo, exhaust, clamps, the entire deal... He wanted $14k originally and I don't think it sold. Considering the performance gain, and difficulty to source another vendor, it might be a nice investment for a guy with a sweet 201! I thought it was a little steep for my old 65E. I like 11.5 and 12.5 in our E but the power is really down. It would be bad ass to pull 28" at 12.5 in the E!! My TAS is maxed out between 7-9k ft, so I have been running there lately. Good Luck Pete! -Matt

Depends on who is trying to sell it, what part of the country it was in, who put it together, what was the scope and detail of the prop strike inspection? Was it taken all the way down and reassembled with new parts? Or was the crank gear inspected and slapped back together. Based off of my learning curve with a 1200hr/28 year SMOH io-360-a1a, I can tell you that I'd price it as not only run out but plan on scrapping 10k worth of parts while your in there. I was only able to salvage the Crank, one rod, accessory case, and sump. Granted mine may have been a worse case situation, but I was shocked how well it ran vs. how bad it really was. What's the S/n, are the middle numbers 4 digits? (L-xxxx-51A) I'm just curious. Mine had the 4 digit middle, the shops I had rework done were shocked mine was that old. I think the IO-360 line started at S/n 1000 or 1100? I can't confirm, but might be a good guess. If I was purchasing the engine I would pass on the transaction. Good luck! Welcome back to an M20 hopefully! -Matt

Intresting!! That looks like High Speed Aerodynamic Filler. Lol. At work, our CJ looked like that before we refinished it. It was nasty around the cabin door and windscreens where Cessna loaded the filler on. The new fillers are pretty good for most under 1/16". That looks pretty thick. -Matt

I know it costs right around 10k to change a registration number on a Jet. Mode S dip switches changes, ELT beacon dip switches, repaint of tail, waiting for all the paperwork to go through. The number can't be on two aircraft at the same time, so letters between owners. Letters authorizing the release of the number to another party. The list goes on. We missed a trip due to a paperwork glitch. If owners had a clue on the cost, I don't think they would do it. All said, I'd ask for at least 10k for the number! -Matt

Thanks Ned & Clarence! Glad you were able to stop the leaks! My nose seal drive me nuts until a few old timers said, "you gotta let the seal do the work." A few things happened after that... Mine no longer leaks. Hope to see you both at OSH!! -Matt