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For those that removed your Brittian AP, what did you do with the Turn Coordinator? Can it still be used with Vacuum ports capped?

I have a TSO’d version for sale. Worked great as a COM 1 for a while. I just redid my panel which is why it’s available.

Sold both?

Thank you all for your inputs, it is really appreciated. I would really like to retain the Aspen so I've narrowed it down to 2 candidates: the Aerocruze 100 and the S-Tec 55X. The S-Tec is compatible with the Aspen and on their website they have an STC listed for the M20F. Their form factor is really not compatible with my panel unless I do major rearrangements. The Aerocruze, along with a rectangular format, also has round form factors (2 1/4", 3 1/8") which would fit nicely in my panel. When I look up their approved aircraft list, they list many Mooney models in alphabetical order up to the M20E and then they jump to the M20G. Strange since the E and the F are very similar with the F being the long body. How strict are these approval lists, can you install one an "E" kit on an "F"? Did I miss any options? Any comments or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Power for speed.on takeoff; pitch for speed when descending to land. Easy peasy!

Yes, I understand. The bottom line is that the whole airplane will need to be repaired and re-sprayed. I need a facility that has that capability.

its important to follow these steps upon learning you have a bad electric pump on the ground - Step one remove key from switch step 2 remove all occupants step 3 walk to car step 4 drive wherever it was your going

Do your best to route those EDM wires away from the ignition wires; allowing them to be in close proximity to ignition wires will cause unnecessary noise in the readings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the Contnental fuel injection system is fundamentally different from the Lycoming in theory of operation.

Yes few aircraft have “extra transient drag” from gear retraction, so have more emphasis on flaps-gear-flaps sequence

Although the early Mooney electric boost pumps burned out pretty quickly when left on, these days once overhauled they’re all rated for continuous duty. Thus it shouldn’t be the problem or concern it was years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because Piper has those huge inner gear doors on a lot of their models. They create large amounts of drag when they open to let the wheels up into the well. I remember decades ago when I flew Navajos, if it was an engine failure on takeoff, it was actually advantageous to leave the gear down, because retracting it opened up the doors to the point that you couldn’t maintain altitude at blue line. That was one of the rare instances where you left the gear down until you got some air under your ass to retract it because it would sink momentarily with all of that stuff hanging out.

I basically did that coming from further north. IFR. They gave me a revised routing of BROUN - MONIA - ??? - GNV. Unfortunately my knee board is in the plane

I am sure there are variations, like the choice of power for speed? or pitch for speed? * "Point and power" when it's blasting * "Pitch for speed" when it's sluggish Some pilots do both without thinking For flaps & gear, in Mooney, I teach people to go slowly on power, sensible pitch, gear, flap: it works well this way. In school, we get students in Arrow to raise drag flap, then gear, then clean flaps: Flaps retract to 25º, positive rate, Gear Up What I find interesting, the Arrow gear is way more draggy than Mooney gear... Anyway, the recommendation from FAA in absence of POH info is still flaps-gear-flaps sequence: https://www.faa.gov/sites/faa.gov/files/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aviation/airplane_handbook/10_afh_ch9.pdf

This!! No need for hardware solutions for software problems...

BTW, not all Mooneys use the fuel pump on take off. It is not in the checklist for my M20K. In fact there is a Takeoff checklist to confirm that the boost pump is Off/

The tolerance on this is not that important, as long as it fits and is strong enough. I'd drill the other side for a pin. Maybe I'm overly protective of the gear but I don't like vehicles as a tug. I'd think I'd want to front mount on the golf cart so that I can easily keep my eyes on things and moved slowly.

OK, you are right, they were from @flyingchump I found the back messages here on MS. I must have bought something for a similar price from you about the same time. Whoever made them, they are GREAT

I am sorry you have to go through this on a low-time engine, but I have to admit to a little relief to know that the engine was not installed by the factory.

Not every one teaches that. The USAF taught, at least when I went through training, power, gear flaps. And the T-38 was not exactly limited in power. So the Power was only about 50% throttle. And we did full flap touch and goes all the time.

Be there around lunch tomorrow. Hope to depart KFAY around 0800, and dog leg by Savannah to avoid the long overwater stretch.

Well, now. If only I'd known before the plant closed! Have to see what I can find, and how good it turns on a wood lathe.

My road to getting my -SB engine to run smoothly at LOP continues... I now got my Maggie Harness (Thanks Paul for assisting) and also my Gami Injectors arrived. I've suspected lots of things, but made the decision to change ignition harness to be 100% that there wasn't any issues. They looked fine when we looked at it, but since left mag even when I changed it and also did an 500h inspection didn't solve rough LOP I decided to buy one anyway. What can you say, I'm glad that I did order a new harness, since there was damage to the old one on several wires. One of the wires were actually really bad, and was in direct contact with metal. This was 5B on Left Mag... rest of chaffed wires were on bottom plugs too. This was only on ~550h since new! All damage was in clamp. (You needed to remove wire to see it) Wire with most chaffing was forced against an rivet due to wrong installation and wrong clamp. Also impossible to see without removing wire. Even if this don't solve my LOP issues, I now have a fresh and correctly installed ignition harness. Started to install new harness yesterday. Gami injectors will be next up. Cylinder 5B. Severe chaffing, through outer rubber and braid shield... Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. When the installed new engine, they used old/wrong clamps that put lots of force on wires. On several wires when clamped together. After some hours of careful wire planning it slowly looks much better. Now all Ignition wires will be in own clamps, and all JPI probe wires in separate clamps.

Will check it next time.

Somewhere over South Carolina. Despite the appearance, this is not a lake, just summer haze and low clouds.