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When I overhauled my IO360A1A, DIco had welded that area and tapped the hole. It was a straight thread and the fitting was a pipe thread. I bought a straight thread fitting ewwith an O-Ring seal and it worked great. The previous overhaul had installed the pipe thread fitting with sealant. Not good. May be why it was cracked. This could be the source of your leak. Remove the fitting and check the threads on the case and the fitting to see if they match.

Ouch! Reference the recent discussion about proper go around procedure, although this go around was to recover from PIO.

Thanks everyone for the discussion. I went back and looked at the video again and keyed-in on the fact that the Lycoming basically floods itself after shutdown. So in my case, if I pushed the mixture forward too quickly (don’t remember if I did or not), the motor didn’t fully light-off because it re-flooded. If that is indeed true, my previous “Plan B” to do a normal start 2nd, because I’m assuming the cylinders are ‘dry,’ actually exacerbates the problem since the cylinders are actually crazy flooded by that point. So now my question becomes: is there some sort of a rule-of-thumb anyone uses in choosing between boosting first (as in a normal cold start), or a hot start after the plane has sat for a period of time after a flight (e.g. out-&-back). I understand a hot motor and an obviously cold motor, is there some clue as to whether there’s still fuel / vapor in the fuel lines and the cylinders, or if it’s all evaporated out of a ‘warm’ motor?

I imagine any time the nose wheel bounces and the leg goes "boing" in rebound against the stop, the moment it imparts will unlock the nose gear momentarily. A shock damper would really help with that phenomenon, if it does indeed happen.

I agree with Ross @Shadrach. My 1978 J had one; my 1994 J does not. If I don’t get a greaser landing, the pitch down when the mains touch can bang the nose wheel down. It was much softer on the 1978 with the shock.

Good idea to remove it. It’s questionable to modify the wiring for the factory gauge if it is still the primary indication.

Clean thoroughly with mineral spirits, spray with dye penetrant developer, run engine to get 150 dF oil temp, shut down and look for oil trail

https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/287250

Flew to Indy with my wife on Friday. Winds were benign. At 7500 with max MP and 2500rpm at 10gph groundspeed was 150knots. I am very impressed with some of your planes ability to achieve speed numbers LOP. My plane runs very cool (290-330 on cylinder temps), BUT starts stumbling below 9gph. Return trip this afternoon had turbulance at 6500 with a weird almost invisible layer that forced my higher. Wind was gusting from south and could not get over 145knots on return. Return flight took ten more minutes. I'm good with that. Andre, your 914 is beautiful. Love the paint. I was at a local chapter Pcar event and a member had heavily modded his 914 (spending over six figures!). It had Martini Racing colors. He also put a 911 type six gauge set up that was painted blue of exterior on the surround. A gorgeous example. He also has a 356 Super.

That's a lot easier than buying the whole turbine to begin with, isn't it?

Brian is worth every penny!

Bump

That is easy...just write a big check. We are complaining about part costs...how about replacing hot section of turbine

I had a contract on N562BG located in California. Sounded like a good deal. I had Brian Kendrick do a very detailed Prebuy inspection. Cost me $5000, if you are considering this airplane, contact me.

I removed the shock from my F model when I received a new nose truss from LASAR that did not have the upper boss for the shock. Maybe it served no useful purpose according to Mooney, but it definitely dampened the rebound in the nose gear suspension. I have a parking pad for the nose gear that essentially has two rounded chocks for parking locators. The nose gear suspension behaves completely differently on the rebound going over those chocks without the shock. Maybe it doesn’t matter, but it’s way less refined then it was with the shock. My shock is still flying on the nose of a C model near Stuttgart. The owner is based on grass and prefers the dampened nose gear on turf.

I do similar to MikeOH on a hot start. I pull the mixture at 1,000 RPM to shut down and when I restart I slowly push the mixture in (without touching the throttle) while cranking. It typically catches when the mixture is the richest. The is a Youtube video demonstrating this.

Try this one - cropped a bit, adjusted contrast, circled with red oval. You'll have to take my word for it that it is the only oil to be found on the engine or anywhere under the cowl.

What 47U suggested. See if the inside of the flywheel has a slime of oil in there. I had this happen after overhaul, in my situation it would occur every 30 hours…..it takes that long to build up enough to splatter.

Well, if you can’t see where it’s coming from the only thing you can do is clean everything up and wait for a clearer (dirtier) picture to emerge.

There are a lot of salvage Mooneys for donor parts - crashed airplanes and neglected airplanes.

Once $28K came from ABS. The other $500K came from an estate specifically for overcoming the ruddervator skin issue. Maybe we need to form the American Mooney Society and as a group of owners and maintainers tackle our most pressing problems. Have the AMS work the parts that are needed and not available at true cost to the members. It could be setup as a not for profit entity for the benefit of its members. @cliffy Care to try something different than the promises generated by AI from LASAR?

Prop was IRANd 140 hrs ago, same time as engine overhaul. Back of blades appear immaculate.

Mine leaked there after a few hours on my overhauled engine. The pipe threads were not very tight. A bit of sealant fixed it. I think it was just a small drop of Permatex Aviation. Mine did not spray, but it is always possible to have two leaks.

I don’t blame you for getting the new alternator and you get a new bracket. That being said, when I installed my engine I ran a new field wire and coiled up a few inches of extra wire. The terminal at the alternator is prone to breaking due to vibration. I change the terminal every few years. Also like Yetti, my local alternator shop checked and cleaned my tractor alternator a few years ago.

When was the prop overhauled? Do you see any oil on the face (backside) of the prop blades? It’s hard to diagnose oil leaks online, but if I had to bet it would be on a blob of grease coming from the prop. Does not mean that the seals are herniated. Occasionally a prop hub will throw a little grease. It can atomize in the prop wash.