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Instead of greasing the pins I'd use Door Ease. I think it's cleaner/easier (I think it's a wax base), it's called for in the Mooney Service Manual and you apply it like a crayon. Plus you can find it locally at ACE or Walmart. To lubricate the door seal after install and annually, I use 3M Silicone Paste. It comes in a jar with a lid with a brush that makes it easy to apply in a light layer, let it "soak" overnight and lightly wipe the seal and door jam. FROM MSM:

Can you get data for the 100LL pumps for comparison?

Adding for posterity: Cleaning off the old seals: Baggage door seal looked different than the cabin door. Baggage door was the foam core rubber seal, but the main door was dense crunchy foam seal. Baggage door came off cleanly and way too easily, but the cabin door came off in chunks. The money was to use plastic razor blade scrapers to scrape off the foam between the rivet heads and get down to adhesive. This worked surprisingly well but was a little tedious in places. I used cheap thin plastic drop cloths from Home Depot with some painters tape to mask things and keep any remover or parts off the paint and out of the aircraft. It was an easy step that made clean up super easy! I took off the interior panels for both the doors. I initially removed the hold open arm on the main door, but it really didn't open that much more and I think you could easily just leave it on and be fine. But it makes it a little easier. If you do take it off, be mindful of the washers and the cotter pin when removing. Hold open arm parts: Door Cotter pin AN380-2-2 (MS24665-132); Washer AN960-10; Washer AN960-10L I then used white shop terry cloths (and a brass brush as needed) with a small spray bottle filled with Adhesive remover. Given the fumes I'd recommend good ventilation and a respirator/glasses/gloves. Depending on how thick and crusty your old adhesive is, dictates how much you need to use a brass brush. Some have described using drill mounted brass brush, and I found that I could control the use of a brush easier without worrying about damage to the underlying frame by hand. Being able to spray the adhesive and keep it wet as it softened the adhesive made it MUCH easier. With softened adhesive sometimes using the corner of a terry cloth rag dipped in some adhesive remover pulled off the top layer of the glue and that coupled with a brush turned it into about an hour+ per door. I think the 3M General Purpose Adhesive is less damaging to painted surfaces than other types of removers. I think overall it worked well and I had no damage to paint or any surfaces inside or outside the aircraft...although I did mask with drop cloths very well. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 6-pack of cheap plastic drop cloths from HD Plastic Razor Blade Scraper 3M 08984 Adhesive Remover Small 2 oz spray bottle Wood handled brass brush After cleaning off the old adhesive, I used isopropyl alcohol to clean off the metal, cleaned up the drop cloths/area, and reassembled the hold open arm and reinstalled the door panels.

It depends on which way you want the motor to turn.

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/fd03665a-9127-4f79-a429-ee3607a81548/downloads/Wayne Fisher on Landing.pdf?ver=1619678278351

Hard to miss - the pictures are in the first post on that thread. Are we sure the son didn't murder the father . . lol?

For all RV, Vne is based on true airspeed (TAS) based. It's a lot easier to display now that EFIS are so popular. I suspect that for most airframes, Vne was based on a TAS but backed down to an indicated speed to make it easier for pilots. Van's had to write articles in the RVator, the newsletters that used to be source of information for builder/pilots to let people know Vne is a TAS limitation. Even once online forums became available, like Van's Air Force, it still shocked many 15-20 years ago that Vne was based on TAS. I suspect a great number of pilot did not understand that limitation and just used the Vne on the airspeed indicator (that you could purchase through Van).

I didn't see headliner shots there specifically. Any chance you could also shoot both sides of yours? Bonus points for little post it's that label what they are? Like lay one that says gear horn, stall horn, dome light, etc.

Wow! That would be tough to keep up with, if it's not clearly visible on the panel.

Old one is gone. The interior was out when I got it. Previous owner died, wife was selling, son threatened to have me murdered. I didn't stick around too long...

@WilliamR Before you go adjusting too much, add some grease to your door pins. Mine were bone dry. The new seal made it concerningly hard to close /open the door until I added the grease.

I posted some photos there. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/51672-overhead-console-replacement/#comment-920451 My headliner is out but I'm happy to take more photos if it helps.

VNE on the RV10 is 200 KTAS. Not like the Mooneys that have a KIAS VNE speed. TIO540 would probably overspeed it at 15000ft or above.

That's my logic of thinking about it, does it matter? does it involve a compromise and what is at stake? can I use judgement to avoid situation with compromise? * I usually land with 1/2 flaps, so go-around is trivial, this rarely involve any compromise as it's usually optimal: gusty conditions on long runway * In cases where I land with full flaps are usually cases where I tend to go-around higher with plenty of speed, raising gear or flaps make no difference, I can even climb with full flaps (if they fail). The only case where compromise is involved is balked landing on short runway after long landing in calm hot conditions, it's very unlikely but one should never say never. In this "unlikely case", I am on full flaps, slow speeds and not much runway left for go-around. In this case, I tend to prefer gaining speed in ground effect, raise gear to accelerate and then raise flaps. I had it probably twice and worked, one has to beleive in building speed even with obstacles in front, I could have fiddled with retracting flaps while climbing steeper. However, I prefer to see where I am going, worst case I am still in ground effect, if I am not going to make it: pull mixture, cut the loss and hope for the best. I think lot of things in aviation are "done in a rush" for "optimal performance", however, one rarely need to get to do that except few unlikely cases? For example, applying max power immediately on go-around, this only make sense in few exceptional cases. Most of the time, one can apply 1/2 power initially, fly level and re-trim, it's not "optimal" but it's "easier" than fighting with yoke ! Another example is applying full power and raising nose immediately after stall recovery for minimal altitude loss It's optimal but high risk as the order and timing matters, it also re-inforces the wrong idea of raising nose and power to recover from stall (the syllabus now teach stall recovery without power). An "optimal go-around" with minimum energy loss will involve immediate power with flaps-gear-flaps where flap retraction is done at optimal speeds before climbing at Vx to 50ft in short distance, this is rarely needed in practice unless one lands long in runway lengths at raw POH data with no margins One has to use judgment to stay in cases where "order does not matter" and stay away from cases where the exact order of gear and flaps matters: "A superior pilot uses his superior judgment to avoid situations which require the use of his superior skill", Commander of Apollo mission.

Actually, @jamesm did chime in about getting the gear up. I have limited time with the manual gear, but I learned quickly why it is so important.

If you build the Rv-10 can't you put a tio-360 in it, heck tio-540?

Yes this is an old thread and yes he probably can do 160 on 11.3 gallons at 12k but i do 160 at 12k on 10gallons or 1.3 gallons less than he does in my m20k and the kicker is every 1000 feet higher i go i pick up 2 to 3 knots on that same 10 gallons of gas per hour. The RV is stuck at that speed to fuel ratio. Even mooney’s own speed chart shows a 252 equals the speed of an ovation at around 14k in speed but even at that altitude the 252 is doing it on less fuel as simple physics a heavier aircraft is going to need more fuel burn to go the same speed as a lighter aircraft if the drag coefficients are similar. And even though the RV has a slick riveted wing that gear hanging out makes more drag than those flush rivets reduce. Course insurance is better for that fixed gear which is good helps him pay for more fuel used.

this is august by event again KWVI only

this is KWVI. I should clarify

I wonder how many "active" consumers are vs one or two times consumers. I haven't heard anyone using it on a regular basis.

I did not know that. Makes sense there'd be a spike.

Didn't they start selling at one more airport recently? Somewhere in TX?

Wonder why it went up by 200 gallons (67%) in August?

So, essentially, 10-ish fill ups per month nationwide, i.e. potentially as few as 5 or 6 planes using the fuel?.. Wow...

Or is red and green positive and black wire is negative? Black is usually negative in car batteries.