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I found a guy on marketplace that had a set from 15 years ago...call Don Maxwell, he seems to be able to find them for people until LASAR gets something figured out..

Call Sigma-Tek. I found them helpful a couple of years ago when I had a question. They also repair the gauges.

I'm looking for a fuel gauge for my right fuel tank, picture attached. The PN is 169BK-910-3-1LBW. LASAR has one for sale with a PN of 169BK-910-4LBW https://lasar.com/gauges/right-fuel-gauge-28v-169bk-910-4lbw-880059-103-28v. And it's on sale!!! Any idea if these are the same?

Stupid question… how do I find out exactly what TIT probe I should have? I looked through the logs and they show a JPI 900 was installed in 2018 with all new sensors. Then a g3x with gea was installed in 2023 and “reused all sensors except mp and ff”. But if the jpi tit isn’t compatible with the g3x as you stated above, then do I have the correct probe? And what is the correct one? Thanks, Drew

You can't see the two big fan jets there either? :-)

Maybe we should say "I’ve stopped losing money when I’ve sold my planes…" True every time I’ve sold mine… -Don

Hi, everyone! Does anyone know if there are patterns available for cutting and sewing wing and tail covers for our Mooneys? I’d rather not try to reinvent the wheel by starting completely from scratch if there are templates or designs already out there. Thank you!

I was gonna suggest that as well, that it just looked like a poor-man's pressurization mod to a regular mag. Somebody may have been taking some high altitude trips and had some ignition hiccups and just decided to solve it that way.

It's not transparent to the user since the charging strategy is determined by the internal battery management system. They're not all done the same depending on what the manufacturer is optimizing (charge availability, longevity, etc., etc.). The "100%" charge level may just be what it allows the user to see, and what it's actually doing is something else. There's no way to know without knowing the details of the strategy, which is usually internal to the specific battery. As I mentioned, the behavior of certain tablets just between the consumer and ruggedized version was different, but in that case the visibility was passed to the user because of other concerns. It's usually not visible.

From a comparison of the parts list in table 11-5 of the S-20/S-200 service support manual, the -18 and -118 are essentially identical parts lists, except the -118 has the orifice instead of a vent plug(#44a vs #44), as well as 3 additional gaskets (#14, 34 & 49 in the parts drawing). So it's possible someone "converted" that to a pressurized mag without updating the data plate. At the end of the day, glad you got it working again, but technically, the sensor is not the one they are calling for to be used with that magneto (though appears to be working fine when it's plugged in), and you may want to be sure the magneto was properly converted between the -18 and -118 (if it was really converted, they should have changed the data plate)... in the pictures it doesn't look to me like the gaskets are present (they are a rubberish+metallic and you can usually see the edges of the metal fibers sticking out), but again, hard to tell. They may have just put the fittings on the mag to feed the upper deck pressure, I'd also be curious if the proper calibrated leak orifice is installed instead of the vented plug where the sensor is.

I've done this when I balloon in the flare [first time was the second of three landings on my first solo], but I've never heard it advocated after a hard bounce. The problem with PIO is that the pilot's throttle and elevator application are out of sequence with the nosewheel-first hits, which just make each bounce larger and each nosewheel impact steeper and faster. That's why I went full throttle and tried a second attempt from downwind. PIO is more than a float, a balloon or a bounce, it breaks landing gear.

Aircraft ownership is just a way to lose money…some planes faster than others. I have been paying $580/mo. for a hangar for about 15 years. That is about $7k per year and before that it was $6k per year. I have paid the City easily $130k just to keep my plane out of the weather over 20 years. And I am bracing for a rent increase. Everyone brags about their fabulous new GFC500 autopilots and flat panels after spending about $80k. New interiors, $20k+ on paint, $15k on tank seals. And that doesn’t begin to touch the engine or prop…depending on what you are flying another $60k?…maybe a $100k…more like $130k if you have a Bravo. Oh and insurance! I just laugh when owners say “I’ve never lost money on selling a plane” …

I don't remember where I learned it, but if there's sufficient runway left a PIO cycle can be broken by application of just enough power during a bounce to arrest the pitch change into a stable attitude (e.g., to make the elevator work again). I used it once not long after I got my airplane just from screwing up a landing, and then again when the MP hose broke and idle RPM stayed much higher than usual during a landing (coupled with not paying sufficient attention). Works really well, and can be easily turned into a go-around if so desired.

I keep track of the Js, they’ve averaged around $160k (listed) for past 2 years, fairly stable.

I'm looking for a "new" set (to me)..where did you find a used set? Thanks in advance for the response

more i think of it, i'm not sure how this makes any sense. engine overhaul cost this not even adding a prop and hub, just got a quote for paint from between 21 and 32k there just isn't path for me to think about selling my girl for 50k, better to let her rust out

Thanks! I just sent @donkaye, MCFIan email. Cross your fingers he is available!

I have a set of Mooney M20C cowl plugs for an M20C with the 201 mod, cowl closure. These were sent to me by mistake. Unfortunately my N number is embroidered on them. They are brand new never used. Again, will only fit an M20C with 201 mod. $100 shipped.

Best choice in the area is @donkaye, MCFI

Totally agree with the computers and higher end devices. And yes, data would be the best thing to see on the smaller items like the battery packs. But I actually reached out to a few Support people for various pack, including mine, and just played dumb to see what they did. I wanted to be able to plug it in overnight and forget about it, but none of them said they limited the charging to 80%. From a few blurbs I've read, I think some manufacturers are doing it. This may have a lot to do with it just being promoted more by Apple especially saying that they had an 80% mode to extend the battery life. My Android also has this feature. But then even my not that old iPad Air with the latest iPadOS does not have this capability.

In the middle of pre-buy of an M20K, and looking for an insurance checkout around the San Jose area for myself (CPL/IR) and my partner (CFII) if said pre-buy goes well. Any recommendations?

Actually no, that's not correct. There are a few higher end ones (Anker I believe and some others) that will let you set the charge limit. So maybe you've always had one of those brands that do limit the charging. But the VAST majority of Power Banks or whatever you want to call them will charge to 100%. No marketing dept is going to let a product go out to get feed back that "it all ways runs down" or "it barely has enough power to recharge my iPad" etc., etc. And then if you have a cheaper made pack, you can be in for a surprise if it's been dropped a few times. Even your phone or tablet will charge to 100% unless it is a newer version and it is set to stop at 80%. Most??? Many??? have them set to go to 100% so the users don't have to plug in as much. My little Nimble pack got good reviews, but there is no way to limit the charging. But it does have 4 lights to tell how much charge it has, so I charge to 3 solid and maybe a little more to get a good charge, but not push it to the limit to repeatedly heat up the battery in that last 20% charge. Besides dropping it , that's one of the best things you can do to prevent a shorter life span. And to be honest, I've never used it. I take it with me are SAR missions in case we're out for an extended time and my phone with our SARTopo starts to run down.

Excellent broker in the midwest.

Never found what exactly was causing the system to go haywire. Jake at Bevan Aviation tested my AP computer and did not find anything wrong. My AI gyro was in need of overhaul so I had that done and I changed the A/P disconnect switch. System works fine now.

Makes me miss the good 'ol MAPA Log days and @jgarrison Jimmy's monthly Mooney market reports . . . With that said, I also look profusely at the market and take the Romanian and French Olympic diving judge approach, as in "throw out the highest and lowest" and then you arrive somewhere close to what each model should be trading at. But doing so doesn't mean I don't laugh every time I see a '64 M20C listed at $175K . . .