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That's the European racing school method. You can beat them by trail braking into the corner, although I don't think I'd advise that in a fire truck except as a last-ditch measure.

Thanks guys! That seems to be the most straightforward solution then... switch to the hall effect sensor for the G3X and ditch the P-lead pickups entirely (except for the R1). I think with that setup, there's no need for the Tach2.

I used the the Hall effect sensor on my G3X also.

Yesterday 2100 feet in non aggressive braking. No speed brakes. If I had braked earlier I could have not had to do a U turn for the 2000 foot turn off. Lht to variable winds. About 14 landings. The trick being to hold off a little longer which shortens the roll out.

I’ve told this a few times. I think people think it is silly, but it is not. In your situation, if it is a contactor, they are mounted to the floor under the pilots seat. If the gear does nothing, stomping on the floor or bouncing on the seat may knock it loose and get the gear going. I also had this happen once and found one of the motor brushes fell out.

The relays are bolted to the floorboard ahead of the left rear seat.

I wouldn’t worry about that too much, Guy (GeeBee) misunderstood my question also. I think he’s just very busy with multiple websites and a wide range of products. If you have a question about your payment you could message him directly, but it’s probably all squared away.

There are the limit switches and the relays (which are near the actuator i think). Limit switches are exactly as you described- paddles on the rod.

My pax seatbelt is always locked and stowed in a way that cant happen...dont ask why

Do all your braking before the corner. Apex the corner. The reason you accelerate out of the turn is to use engine torque to stand up the suspension. Now do it in a fire truck.

@Marc_B thanks for the very good detail. We are using the same seal. The tightness is on both doors. I don't think the top clamp is the problem on the cabin door as I can tell on both doors the pins are hard to engage in the holes. The doors are flush with the airframe as they were before. Now, just very tight. On an early fitting, I did notice the bulb was squishing out of the frame causing binding, but that was corrected. Also on an early fitting I came to the conclusion that as you noted, the seal for the baggage door near the hinge kind of straddles the door frame edge. The paper strip trick is a good idea and will do that. Looking again at your pics, my bulb is just about as close to the edge "unsquished" than yours that is "squished". So, maybe I need to go just a little further inboard on the doors. Let my try once more and will follow up with pics if I continue to have problems. Not sure where Gee Bee's comment is coming from as I'm not dissatisfied with what I received. I'm just trying to perfect the install. I paid at the time of my order. So, @Gee Bee Aeroproducts if there was some problem with my payment, please let me know and I can get my bank to find out what the problem is. You may contact me at the e-mail from which I placed my order to sort that out. Again, I appreciate the help. William

There are two words to solve all of this: Airspeed. Airspeed. Oh, and a third word goes with those two quite nicely: Airspeed.

We have the 275 EIS, but the JPI style Hall-effect magneto sensor works great with the system. It even reads Rpm with the key off.

Just got my copy and haven't put it down yet--amazing read. If you like stories like Stephen Coonts's Cannibal Queen (another phenomenal read; unfortunately out of print), you'll LOVE this book. The shortest summary possible: Egan (longtime Road & Track contributor and huge car, motorcycle and aircraft guy) and his wife took a country-wide trip in their J3 Cub and he wrote about their adventures. Here's a link to obtain your very own hardcopy or Kindle version: https://www.amazon.com/Landings-America-People-Summer-Piper/dp/1642341894/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3F9J2YCXV9QBV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MDODCHmI_wPCG1qntMHUucpgQGCrCt1ENu5TU8eM9lBsrZKhSY2X1o5Y6t3Id-zIL995ZcXImq6DBkzBeZQj86S6VFRMDbsgaAfefWxZY2AlOru4bqmZ90SxuAEj3qi3dLA540k_b1Q_TBP12sDchki_uYntMTUYIZx9YAFNVpahR4kiMcZHtjHXI-o04GJmYhpYkdKhM7QUV9F4i3nCuOp1klK5tytWxxjb7mdeh80.oM0eeskKgf3vq2-foGJFQS6b7BhuvV6TBzNoDjT0v2Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=peter+egan&qid=1756914317&sprefix=peter+egan%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-1

I have also observed that some pilots exhibit similar behaviors in their cars on the streets -- they don't seem to obsess about staying centered in a lane.

Hey everyone! I have a G3X Touch + 4 cylinder EIS in my J. Before I had my panel installed, when I bought my airplane, it had a EI R1 Electric Tach in place of the factory tach. I also had an old Insight G4. When we installed the G3X, I elected to retain the old EI R1 tach as a backup, since in case of G3X PFD failure, I have no other source of tach info. This setup seems to work fine. I also happen to know, because of some other recent avionics debugging, that my G3X is configured to use P-lead inputs for tach sensing. (In this case, my G3X RPM would read zero on the left mag only, and the problem was a bad connection at the resistor which is right at the P-lead) Because of my recent (very costly) magneto/impulse coupling issues, I plan on switching my left (impulse) magneto to a SureFly EIS. I would like to keep the same setup, however, with the G3X and the EI R1 continuing to work as before. I've been doing some research on whether I can keep this setup and it seems that I should be able to (there a small capacitor needed for the R1 apparently)... but I am trying to figure out whether I will need the Tach2 box or not. Based on the G3X Installation Manual, I believe it should be possible to have a magnetic pickup installed in only one magneto and that should not require any P-lead sensing. I am not sure why mine wasn't setup this way. In this case, I think I could just have this setup in the right (conventional) magneto, and I would not need any Tach2 box from SureFly. Does anyone know if the G3X + EIS STC requires the dual P-lead setup, or did my avionics shop just choose that for convenience? Only requiring a single tach input that is not dependent on the P-leads being ungrounded seems simpler to me.

Yes, and they're very easy to test. If one is sticky, contact cleaner will sometimes rehab it, but it is also telling you that it will need to be replaced eventually.

Use all of the track! You paid for it! This is so deep in my brain I apply it to flying such that keeping the airplane on the runway centerline is my lowest priority on takeoff or landing. There's pavement there, I can use it.

No breakers popped. I clarified the original entry. Is the down-limit micro-switch that button with a little paddle clamped to the linkage rod? Thanks for the info.

That sounds very promising. Thanks for the effort on this.

+1 that it is most likely one of the relays or a loose wire to a relay or something like that. It should be reasonably easy to diagnose on jacks.

If there was no motion of the motor and no circuit breakers popped, then the problem is most likely the down limit microswitch or the down relay. When mine did this (but on retraction rather than extension) I isolated it to the relay by jacking the plane, removing the belly panel and tapping the relay with a screwdriver handle which caused the gear to operate.

At the end of the second leg of a cross-country yesterday I moved the landing gear switch to "Down" and nothing happened. I toggled the switch a couple times and got nothing. No motor motion, no circuit breakers popped, the low RPMs gear alarm continued (along with airspeed...), the "Gear Unsafe" annunciator light was lit, and the floor window showed red-stripe gear up. I lowered the gear using the manual extension and landed safely. Luckily, the issue happened at my home airport, so there's that. Ahead of the troubleshooting on jacks with my mechanic tomorrow, I thought I would solicit info from anyone with prior experience on this issue. Areas I assume we'll look at: actuator motor, breakers, relays (one for up, one for down), any loose wiring. (I did have some rain and turbulence on that leg.) (Side note for others: when you lower the gear via manual extension, be careful NOT to over-pull that ripcord cable. Lower the gear until the Gear Unsafe light goes off and you have normal green in the floor window, and that's it. If you force-pull the cable after you have a gear-safe condition, you will bend the long linkage rod in the belly. I almost learned that the hard way in a hangar with the plane on jacks a couple years ago.)

I have one for sale and few other parts:

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