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@Moondoggy, don’t take this the wrong way - but you sound a lot like an AI chatbot. Since I can’t imagine that a sentient chatbot is spending its time hanging out on MooneySpace, I assume you’re a human … but are you running your posts through ChatGPT or something?

Interesting. So if you have an eligible J model, it might be best to hold off for a while. Funny enough, the 2900# GW was a major consideration when I was looking for a J, but I’ve never bothered to have the SL compliance done. I just don’t fill the seats that often, so it’s been a non-issue.

I have heard (i.e. I don't have a cite) that there are different dipstick/tube possibilities...IOW, it is possible you have the wrong one installed and are getting an incorrect reading.

Savvy seems to agree in this case. There's a lot of large metal fragments missing into the engine. They were onboard with a simple repair if the pieces could be accounted for, but unfortunately not. In fact, when the magneto was removed, there was a mass of metal dust/sludge that can only be described as the consistency of toothpaste. Plus presumably lots more that went down into the accessory case. And the gears on the engine side did sustain some minor damage. In principle it needs just a look through of the accessory case and the sump flushed out, but I don't think anybody is signing their name to such a thing under the circumstances.

Yep, merely requires the software update to eliminate the extra tach.

It is possible that the prior owner may have used the lighter plug for some portable device and he wanted to limit the current to 5A. Pure conjecture, though. Did you see any log entries related to changes in electrical system? Does the plug go cold when the 10A C/B inicated on the diagram is pulled? Looks lik someone got creative with the wiring in that plane.

Definitely worth it in my opinion. I noticed the biggest difference in cruise, not so much in the pattern or climb.

That's good. This might be a case where Savvy might be able to help.

Not like this, after landing? I was looking at the Trim settings, had already raised flaps. Flaps are marked Up, Takeoff and Down, but they can be positioned anywhere within the range.

It's at the mx shop attached to WestJet Air Center. They are reluctant to do anything with it without an engine shop looking at it for liability reasons and honestly I don't blame them. I think the engine would have to come off anyway to open the accessory case on my J. The right mag is indeed no impulse and was already replaced with a brand new Champion Slick, and is no longer a QAA mag. Unfortunately the left mag was a QAA Slick, and the only reason I had left it that way was because, at the time (no longer), the engine was under warranty. I definitely will be going SureFly. In the meantime, I think we will be doing a brand new Champion Slick on there. I need to discuss w/ the engine shops whether they can do it with the SureFly from the start. Never had any kickback during start.

Unfortunately a rather large part of the impulse coupling itself is lost into the accessory case (and is presumably in the sump)

Which shop at KRAP is working on it? KRAP is hometown for me and was home base way back in the day. I know a little about some of the current operators and have had some experience from various trips home over the years, although nothing too recent. I wouldn't assume an IRAN is necessary, fwiw. And +1 to get a better ignition on there. I *think* there are Bendix mags approved for that installation, which I think would be a good choice. That said, also getting a non-QAA better Slick model on there would be good, too. I'm assuming the right mag has no impulse coupler? One thing to double check is that the right mag is cold (grounded p-lead) during start. Kickback due to a hot mag at high advance can do all kinds of damage, including fubaring the impulse coupler on the other mag. Have you witnessed any kickback during start?

Yes, regular 100-hour inspections and nearly constant use helps a lot, apparently.

@EricJ, you may not know that flight school engines are some of the longest lasting. Apparently, our engines (at least the normally aspirated ones) thrive on daily abuse.

The dipstick just reads what's in the sump. If your filter holds some oil, which happens sometimes, or there is otherwise oil suspended somewhere in the engine other than the sump, this can happen.

The new 61.316 states "you may act as pilot in command of an aircraft that, since its original certification, meets the following requirements..." (emphasis mine) "Since its original certification" as it affects VS1 is explained on page 244 and specifically excludes modifications, so any airplane that was 2900# from the factory is out. However, I can't find anywhere that addresses the question of aircraft that were originally eligible, then modified to a non-eligible state, then reverted back. Unless I'm missing something, it seems whether those aircraft satisfy the "since its original certification" verbiage is still up for interpretation?

Yes the control pannel has takeoff flaps and take-off and trim marker.

From what you're saying, why would someone own a Mooney over an RV 10? I love my J, but you're going faster than my J (I only get 150 ktas rn) for close fuel burn (probably 10.9ish) and there's less complexity and lower insurance cost with fixed gear.

Antenna frequency responses drop off fairly slowly, i.e., they're not very good filters generally, and 978 MHz or 1090 MHz for ADS-B wind up being well within the bandwidth of an antenna made for a transponder, or even a DME, so those antennas all work fine for ADS-B. My in-panel ADS-B-in is hooked up to the former DME antenna, which is otherwise unused. Really the main issue is just that the connector and antenna still function decently, which they should barring corrosion or damage. Edit: I should add that if there's something that transmits on an antenna, like a transponder or DME, there generally should not be any other independent receivers connected to it. This is to prevent the entire transmit power of whatever is transmitting from going into the receiver, which at minimum will saturate the amplifiers and knock it out for a bit, and more likely would damage the receive amplifiers. Any transmitting device generally gets its own antenna for this reason.

It might try to, and it’s 300hp with much larger flaps and drooping ailerons, but I just use the elevator to correct Being able to manage a max performance to around should be second nature in anything one is PICing

I wouldn’t have those things out below 500’ AGL

Pretty good view of the damage here, definitely needs replacement. Nothing much was visible on the engine side gear, just some small chipping. The biggest issue is the missing ear of the impulse coupling, which is a big chunk!

If your G1000 now shows 2700 RPM as a red line on its tachometer then I don’t think you need the E.I. tachometer any more. I removed mine after a software update years ago.

I've been flying my new to me 1978 M20J for a few months now. I recently purchased a inogen G5 oxygen concentrator to increase comfort flying at and above 10k feet. My mooney has a 12v electrical system so I figured I could just plug it into the cigar lighter in the aircraft with the adapter for cars. Tom Laux of Windblade suggested that if I have >7.5A on the capacity plug, then it should be no problem. I reviewed the electrical diagram (http://mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney Service Manuel M20J Vol. 2 of 2.pdf page 4 for my s/n)and saw it is on the 10A circuit breaker (shared with ignition) and didn't see any fuses depicted (did I just miss it?). During my first two flights with the G5 starting fully charged, the system successfully maintained 100% charge from the aircraft while running on the max flowrate. On my third flight, I started with the unit at ~80% state of charge before plugging it in. After a few seconds the device lost power, and I plugged it into the other socket which had the same result. I dug around behind the panel and found a 5A fuse inline with the socket, which would make sense given my experience. I was surprised to find this given I had not found it on the service manual schematic. In the meantime, I intend to replace it with another 5A fuse, but I am curious for input from others as to why this fuse would be there if it wasn't in the schematic? I would love to swap it out for 7.5A or 10A fuse assuming the wiring and other systems are sized to handle that current draw. Does anyone have any insight they can offer?

Hey all. I've got one of the early G1000 Ovations that has the extra E.I. tachometer in the lower left portion of the panel. I've heard that this was required during early certification as the G1000 tach wasn't certified yet and this was the "official" tach. Don't know if that's true or not. At any rate, lately that E.I. tach has gone wonky on me, showing very radical readings both higher and lower than what the G1000 is showing, although usually within 10 minutes of flight it settles down. I suspect corrosion, which here in Florida seems to be my #1 culprit whenever I suspect electronic weirdness. So now my question: are there individual pickups for each tach in the system, or is there one pickup that is then split somewhere to feed both the E.I. and the G1000? In either case, where would I look for corrosion in the connection to the E.I.? Appreciate your thoughts...thanks! Jeff