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Looking for the above....

If I looked for a place to do this, I'd have a trophy shop do it.

Do folks use 48109 or 48110-2?

The thing with antennas is they all have different footprints - the M20K has a 4 hole mounting, but the RF connector is offset to the left to miss the stringer on the centreline. There are some nice combined VHF / GPS antennas on the market, and BAS often has good used ones. An older one is still likely to meet the specs for a GNS430.

I do not have one, so still taking off at 40MP

There is a lot of vibration around alternators, and a lot of deterioration of wires forward of the firewall. It's not at all expensive to redo terminals, replace simple wires etc. Then look at your logbooks - when last was your alternator replaced or overhauled. ACU's are a little more difficult to troubleshoot. Use this as an opportunity to give your charging circuit an overhaul. Including the alternator mounting bushes etc. Your airplane is 'talking to you' - listen, get it fixed before you go fly. Aerodon https://pinpointharnessing.com make nice replacement wiring.

That happens when someone's account is hijacked. But you can usually see through it when you ask a few intelligent questions that only an aviator would know the answer to, or star seeing mismatches between names and payment addresses etc. I bought a high value item recently, and did my due diligence on him, his airplane, his email address his phone number etc. Then he gave me his wife's email (without the same last name) for a payment and I stated all over again. She had a good internet footprint with a fascinating family business. And eventually I found a direct link between the two. Kind of fun to do this type of research, trolling with a purpose. Aerodon

If you were to trace the outline and holes, I could draw it and CNC cut it. Even add an extra hole for a Lemo plug. Don

Interesting. I’ll take a look around plant shops. I’m not much good on working with aluminum. I’m pretty picky and I don’t stand up to my own criticism!

Remember that a prop is an airfoil. At high D-Alt, just like the wings, the prop has less to grab on to. The visual we used to teach was to think of driving a screw through whipped cream rather than a piece of wood. It's obviously not that extreme, but it can help with the concept.

Absolutely, but repeatedly resetting a tripped breaker in flight without knowing what tripped it is certainly tempting fate. https://planeandpilotmag.com/should-you-reset-a-circuit-breaker/

Lots of places can make decals or vinyl placards. I get mine from the paint shop.

Thanks for the heads up, it seems to be more common with special interest groups now. If you don’t mind us asking what payment type was used? Some are clever yet some are a little obvious with vague responses or questions posted overtime. I wouldn’t be surprised if we already have a new member. Sorry this happened to you.

That’s why we have circuit breakers. To stop the fire when something shorts.

That makes the most sense. Use the old plastic one as a template. It will never crack again….

That is not true! KMA24 has no built in intercom while PMA has one. You will need to rewire (new) I/C wiring to the top connector that with KMA24 install would go to the intercom. The other (bottom) connector wiring stays the same. It's not an insignificant job and I've done it in the past. Regards,

a member that was on here for 2 years and had lots of posts got me on a needed prop. raymondscott0321 was working from Nigeria. I figured if he was here that long he must be legit. not so.

@EricJ I think that the theory my A&P has is as you said, the exhaust seals when the pipes get hot and expand sealing up. I'm 50/50 on this theory as there was some evidence of exhaust on the cowling, specifically on the cowl flaps, stemming from where the cowl flaps pivot in a white streak. Having spoke to a couple A&P's someone suggested the use of a ball peen and a sandbag to open up the pipe very slightly and tighten the fit. I'm still very much undecided.

Thanks! I didn't think to look there.

Does it leak all the time or only at startup? Many of the exhaust joints leak like crazy at startup and then seal when the pipes get hot and expand. Your A&P may be saying he thinks it's just a startup leak.

For future reference, this would probably be better in the new M20K section. Also, I'd find a new A&P that doesn't encourage ignoring exhaust leaks.

Is this with the intercooler?

small threads, soft metal, I would have to take it off and put it on the drill press and use a centering end point to make it work and would probably still fubar it. I would buy 2 start it with the unground one or a regular. Then use the ground one to finish up. But I am going to be really pissed at the shop after I spent a day fixing it and they gorilla hand it and strip them out again. I still like the jb weld idea. To the point of coating a screw with grease. Fill hole with Jb weld. put screw in hole and let dry. Form a threads. take like half an hour and if it works great, otherwise fill it up again and drill and tap.

Or if that one is abs plastic, remove it, repair it with abs glue/putty, paint it, then reuse it.

Yikes - in flight fire waiting to happen. Figure out where it is shorting.