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So that M20E at that price as equipped really is an amazing price. Panel is only opportunity, but at THAT price? Not sure why it is priced so low, but it is like $30k low. Great price for someone. I saw it and my mouth dropped open in surprise. Maybe the best price I have ever seen with mods. I almost hope it has a fatal flaw or I overpaid big time…

All the ads for a Bravo here in Europe are lower priced than what I paid last year. So I either overpaid or the prices dropped. And I remember seeing one or two similarly priced last year than what I paid.

This photo makes me think that our wives attended same class on how to pack for a weekend

tech wise this can be done but due to economics IT NEVER WILL BE, except for the random barely engineered experimental. Now back to when will i be able to light 100R on fire in my mooney

There’s a nice series of articles in Air Facts Journal about a Chevy V-8 installed in a Skyhawk. I think this has been referenced on MS before … well worth an entertaining read. https://airfactsjournal.com/2020/11/the-20-an-hour-cessna-172-experiment/

$65k is a good number to plan on. If your exhaust is totally trashed, it will cost another $5K or so.

There's so many part numbers involved and it's highly unclear to me what makes a compatible v-band or not. My part number is 646534 (at least according to the last replacement log). That RAM one seems to be a replacement for 653332. The mooneyspace thread says it works with GB and LB engines, but the RAM PMA only indicates the -LB engine. The parts catalog doesn't seem to help, and it seems like there are a ton of versions of this clamp =/

Fisherman’s warf is great on the lake too! -Don

I gave them all your notes ;o) -Don

Not sure what to make of the mag. That line running to the mags definitely looks to be a pressurization line, but the dataplate says it's a 10-79020-18 and not a 10-79020-118 (which as far as I can tell is the pressurized version). I'll have to poke my mechanic to see if he can explain it. That said, the picture of the actual sensor resolved the whole thing, thanks @rklems. I had seen a strange metal tab sticking out of the mag, but didn't connect that it was sensor connection since it looked nothing like the images online. Once I saw that it was really clear what had happened. The only thing holding that together is the rubber sleeve and the bulge on the end. Someone had decided to pull it out instead of cutting the ziptie and disconnecting the molex during a recent maintenance. That particular mag was just replaced after the previous one failed, and two days later the alternator failed. Either of which I could see having the mechanic needing to pull that out of the way. When the put it back they didn't push it all the way down (like in the image) and likely just pushed the head in. That worked it's way out after 10ish hours of flying. Either way it's reattached now and everything is good to go.

Be sure to allow for the difference between up and down movement on the pitch servo as just setting the arm in the middle between the two hard stops may not allow the correct travel before hitting the hard stop. Check your TCDS to review how far up and down the elevator goes each side of center and allow for the difference between the hard stops. The center rod for the pitch is not drilled and threaded through the rod and each end depth may be different. Measure three times before cutting to length to make sure you can get the proper thread engagement for the Heim joints and sensor. . Make sure you make up a dummy rod the full length out of 1/8 by 1/2 aluminum (drilled at the length you think you want) and try it out in place after everything is installed BEFORE you cut any of the rods to length.

Don't overcomplicate it...set your prop, twist mixture till rough, add a couple turns till roughness goes away and you are good...come out to be about the same as reaching peak EGT and adjusting to ROP since you are not an IO360

man i'm feeling claustrophobic just looking at that pic

actually that's rwhp in the charts, so crank would probably be 10 to 20 percent more

My mistake, I believe the total price was $17K

My wife was there when the piece hit the asphalt and she said buy a new propeller. I’m pretty sure it is best I not argue.

The Mexican place at the top of the hill is pretty good.

There’s a version from RAM that has also worked for some people. they did extend the AD, but you better read it carefully to make sure you meet the requirements for continued inspection.

Flew in today. The ILS is down, so I had to fly the RNAV 5 circle to land 31. Broke out 900ish so it wasn’t too sketchy.

Injector would have been my first guess, too

Ditto about the same time by Wet Wingologist. Great job, on time, on estimate, I think all in was about 13K

I can always mfg per sample and weld a insert bung extension so you can screw in a tube / suction after 14months Iam finishing the E225 complete breather tubes upper mid hump lower all 304

Thanks! Sounds like best answer...

The battery bag will contain the flames, but not the heat. It might be good to keep a wool blanket around as a fireproof insulator, just in case. The battery fire will generate a lot of somewhat toxic smoke too, so open all the vents and windows. Water will not put the fire out, but it will cool it off and slow the reaction. I have set quite a few Lion batteries on fire when I was developing a 100 battery charger for medical devices. Many on purpose, some were casualties of development.

It probably failed because it wasn’t taped properly. Can’t imagine buying a new prop because of it. If you want the prop overhauled, have it overhauled, and let the shop decide if the blades are too far gone. They are probably OK.