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At last annual I/we installed a new WAT Parmethus PAR 46 landing light along with LED wing tip lights and I am very happy with the result. However, I must say that in the 18 years that I have owned 1TF the GE landing light has only been replaced once, and that was about 15 years ago. That being said, the WAT was expensive, but the LED is so much brighter and I’m happy with my purchase.

I went for the AeroLites which was $145 at the time (7 years ago) and had my A&P do a 337 since they are technically not FAA/PMA approved.

For the win! Never had covers on mine when I bought; didn't even know they were a thing until MS educated me

I used to have a couple. Need to dig through my thumb drives.

Post your videos somewhere online, then paste a link into your thread here. Mooneyspace does not host videos. I'd like to see this video!!

Thank you. I have gone ahead and sent them an email.

Posted a couple of photos. I have some great videos if someone knows the best way for me to upload those. My approach to Nuuk, Greenland, will be the most memorable of my life. Flying with a high broken cloud layer, the sun shining through, flying over a low cloud layer, and a fog bank over the entire runway except for the threshold. Amazing and beautiful. I will be heading to EGPO tomorrow.

Does anyone have pdf files of the reviews of the various Mooney models that used to appear on the old MAPA website? Or maybe a link?

Too bad it is not a 40:1 gear...

You can get a much better and longer lasting LED landing light used on ebay for a hundred bucks. You will likely never need another landing light. The draw is minimal compared to old tech lights. It is a no brainer upgrade.

Or bottom out and strip the threads.

It matters where the JPI is measuring the voltage. I assume it is using its power wire. The measured voltage may be different than the alternator output depending on the voltage drop between the alternator and the JPI. The voltage drop depends on the buss resistance and the current flow through the bus between the alternator and the JPI.

Hey All, I have an exhaust leak from the circled joint. It's blowing out towards the front of the aircraft (In flight its being pushed out of the cowling at the cowl flaps joint. My A&P suggested we leave it, any suggestions here on how I can seal it up bar replacement of the full exhaust system? Engine is a TSIO360LB Thank y'all!

I have a JPI 700 for the voltage. Typical voltage is around 13.8 with the IFD440, Garmin Nav/com 2, sky track in/out nav lights and strobes were all on before I turned on the landing light.

800 for 4 seats is kinda crazy if you’re re using the hardware (which one would be) I’d probably as my local rigger what he would charge as they deal with harnesses all the time which are under much harder use conditions than a plane seatbelt

Thanks! is there a more flush version for the Cessna panels?

The PMA7000 series is slide-in compatible with the KMA24. Might be an option.

My Owners Manual says to turn on the landing light and watch the ammeter needle wiggle as part of the Post-Engine Start checklist. Proves that the meter still works. Best thing to do is test it while the prop is off. Check your field wire, too--mine just broke, thankfully in VFR conditions.

What is your bus voltage normally (without the landing light)? What is the rated output of your alternator and what kind of load are you running typically? I don't recommend randomly shotgunning parts, and wouldn't start OH'ing or replacing parts before someone fully troubleshoots the system and determines where the problem lies.

An LED landing light is a lot cheaper than an alternator. The old landing lights draw a lot of current. To tell if it is the alternator, you need to connect a voltmeter to the alternator output. The landing light could be pulling down your bus downstream of the alternator.

I noticed last weekend that when I turn on my old incandescent head light the voltage drops to about 12.3V. Is this an alternator issue or maybe I've never noticed the drop? I downloaded the Plane Power trouble shooting article suggested in another thread that I'll go through in the mean time. It's time to get a new belt so I figured since the prop and belt are off if it needs an IRAN or replacement that I should do it now. I prefer it not quit in heavy IMC. BTW, a 65 E leaks a lot of water heavy downpour in the clouds. I need to figure that out or stop flying in the rain. Tim

Just take a regular tap to the grinder.

Exactly, 50ROP will burn it up

I do believe my belts were originally Davis and re-webbed in Georgia in 2011 but I need to verify that. Since mine have been re-webbed, Davis won't touch them and Davis' position is no one can legally touch their belts. I asked if they had any documentations as to why no one is legally allowed to work on them but the person I talked to was not aware of any, it's just what he's been told to say. Aircraftseatbelts is the cheapest I've seen at $735 for all based on their online price. I called an authorized repair station 45 minutes away that does them; their cost is $225/seat and their process is to replace the material (rated by G force), re-stitch is how it was, and relabel. 10 days turnaround. It makes one wonder how hard it is to get the certification to be a repair station; it sounds like a great business to be in (probably till you get an insurance quote for liability).

I have an ovation so same but different. I was pretty close. Don't have the POH in front of me but found this reference online. Not even sure how accurate this is as I am serial #243 and it isn't even listed.