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Should, if it has the wire in the hose like it should and the wire doesn’t have an open circuit, but also believe it or not but static builds from fuel falling in the air, that is why the tanker trucks that top load have the dip tube https://www.chevronwithtechron.com/content/dam/external/chevron/en_us/marketing-support/all-other/Static_Electricity_Hazards_and_Prevention_from_CBT.pdf8v https://docslib.org/doc/12963317/petroleum-loading-and-unloading-procedures-top-loading As I said probably over cautious and when was the last time you heard of a GA aircraft catching fire being fueled, so probably not real necessary, but why not do a couple of things that require nothing special like be sure you touch the wing to dissipate static from you before you stick that nozzle in the tank? I refuel inside of my hangar so I guess I’m overly paranoid. But if you care when we refueled from a truck, (Military) the truck had to be grounded, the truck bonded to the aircraft and the nozzle bonded to the aircraft before being attached to the aircraft, we never open port refueled too, because of the danger from vapors, and that was Jet fuel which is harder to ignite than gasoline

This was the response from Insight. 450/500 for warning levels seems pretty useless right?

I did the same thing, the kit is well done and it works great.

I was looking at this thread again and noticed you use the Foam Cannon. I'm not a big fan of pressure washers with planes, but do you know if it will work with low pressure or even out of the faucet pressure and still get a good foaming action? I like the idea of a pre wash with the foam to dissolve the grime and rinse most of the dirt off. But again, personally I don't think you should be pressure washing a Mooney. It would be too easy to actually push grime and grit into areas you don't want it and you'll never get it clean... Until your mechanic has to start taking things apart due to the corrosion.

This is correct, or at least it was in 2021 when I got a rebuilt IO360 from Lycoming. On my engine, case was cracked and couldn't be repaired. Also previous OH, done by well known shop in CA, screwed up and mixed the narrow deck camshaft and accessory case on my Wide deck engine. This and few other things was found out after the shop I intended to use (forgot the name: in Kamloops, BC) took the engine apart for OH. Basically, they told me Factory rebuilt would be a better deal (Lyc OH was not an option). They placed the call to factory sales rep and so factory accepted the engine in pieces, even I've heard often that can't be done. It can! It sure helped they were decent size shop and dealer of the engines and had a great relation with factory.

my step somehow fell off the plane 8). it was a fixed step

Asked and answered in 8 minutes. Take that, Beechtalk.

Doing new panel and hoping to get a less faded face for the instrument cluster. Looking for replacement instrument cluster or the lens in good condition. Cheers, W

Electric step worked for me… no vacuum system on mine with avionics upgrade… http://flightenhancements.com/index.html @takair sells them… -Don

Yes, wide deck. The doghouse had to be modified a little and I had to buy a new starter ring gear and support.

I am upgrading some avionics and hoping to get rid of the vacuum pump in my M20C. Has anyone made a setup for the retractable step (with pin/latch/etc) to allow manual let down and retraction?? I think could do OK most of the time with it fixed up, but definitely some passengers where that step is nice! Many thanks. W

Here's the Service Bulletin: https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-322.pdf BAS and the other salvage places know that these are very valuable. You'll probably have to bite the bullet and just order a new one. As it mentions, the airplane is grounded until the stall strip is replaced

Did you try replacing the bolts? Sometimes the bolt shank wears more than the hole in the ball.

It might have to be changed on the G1000 to the new sensor. There are options starting with software version 401.30.

I shared the SAIB with the owner. The FAA FSDO did visit the aircraft onsite with Cirrus, so they are aware. If you note carefully in the SAIB, the notice was for FSDOs to report what they had learned too.

Do you know if this G100UL problem instance has been reported to the FAA per their recent SAIB?

Same Cirrus that I reported on previously. It went to a Cirrus service center near Juan for inspection and repairs

Strangely, the parts are pretty easily available and not that pricey!

Unfortunately it’s the actual holes in the joints.

Yes, 27, but it's essentially just two spherical rod ends connected together. Those are generally standard parts, so if you can figure out what each part is you can just replaced the rod ends. Sometimes those have the part number on them, or you can take the dimensions and figure out what it is. McMaster-Carr is a good place to start when looking for those: https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends

I had this issue with install of the 830. I had purchased a JPI probe and it didn't work with OEM six pack. I replaced the jpi with OEM bayonet and works fine again.

Installation went smoothly today. Both the starter and Voltage regulator working perfectly. Nice upgrades. Three hours labor for work. Job done.

Could you take them off, tighten then a turn towards each other and reinstall? Or is the slop inside the holes at each end?

I had them quote my IO-360A1A back in October 2024. $36.7K with OH cylinders, $38.3K with new Cont/ECI cylinders. Pricing assumed that crank/cam/cases check ok. Shipping to/from California was just under $1K. Lead time was 26 weeks. Approximately 18 weeks with $15K pre-payment for parts to be pre-ordered.