Martin S. Posted July 13 Report Posted July 13 Evening gents, couple of firewall-forward questions (J with IO-360A3B6D): Can somebody tell me whether the hose from the fuel servo to the fuel manifold (should be p/b: LW-12784-4-172) comes with a firesleeve? Can't see a sleeve on mine and it seems wrong. Also wondering whether there is a special wrench to hold the engine mount bolt nuts (see foto) when removing the engine? Many thanks, Martin
Joe Linnebur Posted July 13 Report Posted July 13 1st question: not sure 2nd question: the “special tool” is created by you. What worked for us: get a 5/8 (I believe that’s the size) open end offset wrench (we used a 45 degree offset wrench) and grind down the back so it’ll fit. Maybe 1/4 inch thick will allow it to fit in between the pushrod tube and the end of the bolt.
PT20J Posted July 13 Report Posted July 13 My rebuilt IO-360-A3B6 came from the factory with a fire sleeved hose between the servo and the flow divider. Generally I believe any line forward of the firewall carrying flammable fluid should be fire sleeved. 1
N201MKTurbo Posted July 13 Report Posted July 13 For the wrench, go to Harbor Freight and buy a combo wrench and then spend some quality time with the wrench, your engine and a bench grinder. Polish it up nice after you are done, it will be in your tool box a long time.
Martin S. Posted July 13 Author Report Posted July 13 (edited) Thanks for the anwers - that helps. Edited July 13 by Martin S. 1
Jim F Posted July 14 Report Posted July 14 Offset box end wrench. Some grinding might be necessary. Yes, on fire sleeve. As Skip said, flammable =fire sleeve
OR75 Posted July 14 Report Posted July 14 7 hours ago, Martin S. said: Evening gents, couple of firewall-forward questions (J with IO-360A3B6D): Can somebody tell me whether the hose from the fuel servo to the fuel manifold (should be p/b: LW-12784-4-172) comes with a firesleeve? Can't see a sleeve on mine and it seems wrong. Also wondering whether there is a special wrench to hold the engine mount bolt nuts (see foto) when removing the engine? Many thanks, Martin a few years ago , worked on shimming the engine. Could not torque the nut because the wrench would not fit between the pushrod and the nut ... so I decided to go the the hardware store and buy the cheapest wrench and grind it (I did not want to ruin the snap on tool). Guess what ... I did not have to . The cheap made outside the US wrench was thin enough but it did the job !
jetdriven Posted July 15 Report Posted July 15 Snap on calls it a performance wrench, but icon sells a set of these at Harbor freight for 100 bucks, it’s a double box wrench, but the box is twice as deep and it’s very thin and it fits on those engine mount nuts perfectly. 1 1
N201MKTurbo Posted July 15 Report Posted July 15 2 hours ago, jetdriven said: Snap on calls it a performance wrench, but icon sells a set of these at Harbor freight for 100 bucks, it’s a double box wrench, but the box is twice as deep and it’s very thin and it fits on those engine mount nuts perfectly. You can get it past the pushrod tube? I had to grind mine down so it was about 1/8 inch tall at the far end.
Jim F Posted July 22 Report Posted July 22 There is one more option to get more clearance, but it has some pit falls. You can release the push rod cover spring clip and push the push rod forward until it hits the push rod. This can give you +.100 additional clearance. make sure you pull the case and cylinder push rod cover seals out of there recesses and spray with pure silicone spray and reseat the push rod cover and reset the spring (both clips)
Martin S. Posted July 26 Author Report Posted July 26 Thanks Jim, I ended up grinding down a cheap wrench as others suggested - fits well and seems to have enough grip to get the nut loose.
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