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Posted

I had the same problem a few years back, but it was a bit more harrowing than having them stuck in the down position on the ground. I was executing a go-around (due to another plane crossing the runway at an uncontrolled airport) in a very heavy plane on a very hot Florida day and the flaps didn't retract. Once on the ground I was able to retract them by vigorously shaking the right wing flap panel. In the end it was the micro switch.

Posted

I have a zero tolerance for electrical parts acting up. Earlier this year my landing gear wouldn't retract. I put the plane on jacks, verified the failure and opened the belly and tapped on the relays, and it started working. I replaced both up and down relays. The problem with electrical contacts is that once the thin precious metal plating wears through, the base metal corrodes increasing the contact resistance. Contact cleaner can be a temporary solution and is useful for troubleshooting. But, at least for me, a decades-old electrical part that fails once gets replaced.

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  • Like 1
Posted

@PT20J @Yetti If you got the v3-1 can you simply remove the lever actuator from the old switch and lay it into the new switch? Or in the event that you ordered a v3-1 and the JV-5. It looks like it has slots to receive it. Not sure how it’s held in place. 

Posted
11 minutes ago, 201Steve said:

@PT20J @Yetti If you got the v3-1 can you simply remove the lever actuator from the old switch and lay it into the new switch? Or in the event that you ordered a v3-1 and the JV-5. It looks like it has slots to receive it. Not sure how it’s held in place. 

Looking at them some of the levers looked pinned.   The V3 looks like you might be able to reuse the old lever.   I am trying to find one with the lever in it.  It's the matter of working through the search on digikey

Posted
15 minutes ago, 201Steve said:

@PT20J or does the JV-5 encase the v3-1 switch… not sure how that works

It attaches to the switch with the switch mounting screws, so it should be easily swapped.

Posted
12 hours ago, Ragsf15e said:

Sometimes the hydraulic flaps make me smile…

So easy, so simple, so Mooneylike. Would be fine with me if they left them that way.

Posted
8 minutes ago, rickseeman said:

So easy, so simple, so Mooneylike. Would be fine with me if they left them that way.

I think there are more posts on here about fixing the hydraulic flaps than the electric flaps....

  • Like 2
Posted
43 minutes ago, 201Steve said:

@PT20J @Yetti If you got the v3-1 can you simply remove the lever actuator from the old switch and lay it into the new switch? Or in the event that you ordered a v3-1 and the JV-5. It looks like it has slots to receive it. Not sure how it’s held in place. 

No, the JV-5 lever is external, the V3L-3 lever is integrated in the switch.   I looked at that previously and didn't see a way to reuse the lever.

Posted
7 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

I think there are more posts on here about fixing the hydraulic flaps than the electric flaps....

Very true, which is why I had to take my shot when I had it!

  • Haha 1
Posted

Here is a photo of @ArtVandelay with the v3-1 and jv-5 I pulled up in another thread, just to tie these together. As Eric pointed out, the -3 has the roller inside the switch, the -1 and jv-5 combo, it's just mounted differently, but achieves the same thing.

 

image.jpeg.58be8468ab5f73ff8481310f6209a47d.jpeg

Another thought to toss around, I'm not sure I understand what value contact cleaner would do here. It's a sealed switch. You're not actually cleaning the contact. Your just cleaning the plastic part of the button switch, which I don't see being super effective unless the problem is simply the plastic rubbing against the plastic and causing a jam.

Posted
This makes more sense. Here is photo of the JV-5. It is represented differently on Newarks website.
image.jpeg.bc8ef423f0bb5f07dba7b09378b8835b.jpeg

You probably can just remove this from existing switch and install on new one, doesn’t look like it would be the failure point.
Posted
21 minutes ago, ArtVandelay said:

You probably can just remove this from existing switch

If you have the V3-3 the armature is not removable. It is integrated into the switch. If you have the V3-1 and the external armature (JV-5) like you have, yes I would agree. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, 201Steve said:

Another thought to toss around, I'm not sure I understand what value contact cleaner would do here. It's a sealed switch. You're not actually cleaning the contact. Your just cleaning the plastic part of the button switch, which I don't see being super effective unless the problem is simply the plastic rubbing against the plastic and causing a jam.

It's not hermetically sealed.   There's a path for the cleaner to get into the switch around the button under the lever, and maybe some other paths as well.   You do kind of need to soak it pretty good to make sure it gets in, but it doesn't take much getting in and then work it a little for it to make a difference.

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, 201Steve said:

Yeah, there is no scarcity of the v3L-3, it’s just $185 instead of $30. 

Yeah, the $183 price and 10-week lead time means, "We don't have this and probably can't get it."

Posted

For those of you with the failure prone electric flaps :-)   How often do you remove disassemble and relube the jack screw assembly? 

Seems one might want to do it along with the electric gear actuator  They are kind of similar aren't they?

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