Conrad Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 I now know why my oil temps have been wandering to the bottom of the yellow even on cool days with low power settings. Quote
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 mine route under an aluminum shield and the lower cowl skin Quote
Conrad Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Posted October 25, 2016 I am told that that is what will be done with them after the damaged one is replaced. Quote
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 Had to tweak my shield a little when I installed new hoses with fire sleeves Quote
Guest Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 Those hoses should also have fire sleeve. Clarence Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 If that photo doesn't make you get a lump in your stomach and make you want to do a bee-line to the airport with a flashlight and a screwdriver... That is a face-palmer. Glad you caught "it". 1 Quote
cctsurf Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 I'm afraid this is probably not the problem that the OP is running into with oil temperatures. It looks bad and should be replaced, but I doubt that will cause oil temp fluctuations. Check your varitherm, etc. 9 hours ago, MyNameIsNobody said: If that photo doesn't make you get a lump in your stomach and make you want to do a bee-line to the airport with a flashlight and a screwdriver... While I agree with the sentiment, the hoses on my mooney were showing large sections of the underlying steel braiding when I got her. New hoses were one of the first items I did. It had been flown for quite some time like that. The pressures we run for the oil and the stratoflex or aeroquip hoses we use on our oil coolers are so redundant that there was never any danger. 3 Quote
Conrad Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Posted October 26, 2016 I'm very glad I caught it when I did. I can't say for sure how long this has been going on, but I happen to now have two digital oil temp readings from different probes, so the information was just yelling to be investigated. 5 hours ago, cctsurf said: I'm afraid this is probably not the problem that the OP is running into with oil temperatures. The technicians also checked the vernatherm and the oil cooler for proper operation. Keep in mind that the hose was clearly pressed firmly against the exhaust in flight, and that while the steel braiding may not be visible yet I suspect it would conduct heat to a significant enough section section of the hose to heat the oil back up as it flowed past. I also have a purely personal suspicion that the improperly routed hoses were interfering in some way with the cowl flaps. Quote
Jim Peace Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 On October 25, 2016 at 3:36 AM, M20Doc said: Those hoses should also have fire sleeve. Clarence I wanted the fire sleeve ones for my 64c. Money was not an issue, they physically could not do it due to some very tight bends. I am not a mechanic so I don't know the specifics but they did point out that near the rear of the engine they would not work. Mine do route under a shield and they are brand new and I have no problem replacing them at shorter intervals even if they don't look like it needs it. Quote
Conrad Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Posted November 30, 2016 Alright @cctsurf, you called it. After having the oil lines fixed the oil temperature problems persist unabated. The current best theory is that perhaps the old oil hoses sustained enough damage that some rubber bits migrated from them to become lodged inside the oil cooler. The hoses will be borescoped to see if this is plausible. After that the next best theory is that somehow airflow through the cooler has been compromised. Paul Loewen has told me that LASAR's knowledge of the infamous guppy mouth suggests that it causes air flow to be reversed through the oil cooler due to high pressure inside the cowling. In that case it seems possible to me that some adjustment has interfered with that condition, leading to exceedingly low airflow through the cooler. But really I'm just spitballing on that. I don't even know how it would be possible to test for something like that. Quote
aeromancfi Posted November 30, 2016 Report Posted November 30, 2016 I had a high oil temp (1965 E Model), that was finally traced to old wires and corroded connections on the wires connecting probe to the instrument forward of the firewall. Simple replacement of the wire and connectors solve the problem. aeromancfi Quote
bonal Posted November 30, 2016 Report Posted November 30, 2016 I talked to Paul about the reverse air flow through the cooler they confirmed it on one that had a small leak from the cooler and the oil trace was coming from the cooler out the front and onto the lower cowling. Our old stock gauge was right at the top of the green on most OAT flights we did the probe test in hot water and found gauge was reading 19 degrees high at 212 water temp. Recently installed a JPI slim line temp with the probe at the front of the engine and on a hot day hit 225 on the climb dropped to 205 in cruise last flight in cooler weather cruise went down to 195. Will be looking into having the cooler cleaned and testing the vernatherm. Quote
Conrad Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Posted November 30, 2016 I should fill in some more details. It's no instrumentation error. I have two completely separate modern readings on the oil temp. One is a JPI EDM700 using a probe on the front of the engine case (like @bonal's). The other, which replaced the standard probe, is on the CGR 30C. Both generally agree to within a handful of degrees, and tests with hot water have been conducted to ensure that both instruments are not colluding to present the illusion of high temps, and that is not the case. Quote
MB65E Posted November 30, 2016 Report Posted November 30, 2016 Do you have the standoff plate that is in back of the oil filter? Mine was missing, I manufactured a replacment. The fire sleeve Teflon hoses will fit in there. I wouldn't even bother borescoping the hose. Just replace it. Also send the oil cooler and vernotherm to Wayne at Pacific oil cooler. He'll tell you the vernotherm is bad too. He has replacements in house. Hoses, overhauled/cleaned cooler, new vernotherm. Throw some fresh oil in there and Fly! I think it's $189 for the cooler work, $425 for the vernotherm, and probably $125 for each hose. -Matt 1 Quote
cliffy Posted November 30, 2016 Report Posted November 30, 2016 The stand off plate sits about 1/2 inch above the back of the oil filter and keeps the exhaust stack radiation heat from hitting the oil cooler Check to see if you have it as mentioned above. e Quote
Yetti Posted November 30, 2016 Report Posted November 30, 2016 PHT hoses in Oklahoma. Tell them you want the fancy upgraded version. Quote
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