Marauder

When I converted my plane to all electric in 2017, I looked at the B&C standby alternator for my F. As you pointed out, it sits on the vacuum pump pad. There is no STC for our Mooneys. Another Mooniac helped me look at the field approval process but the likelihood of getting it approved through my FSDO was on par with stopping the Earth’s rotation. If you want to pursue the STC route, I may be able to find the communications I had with B&C. I think there is an interest, but unless they have enough interest, it is unlikely they would develop the STC. As for the field approval process, the person who provided me the information is on this site and hopefully will share the information he provided me. He asked me not to do so. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Ah flight bags… I have a closet full of them. Everything from the old Jepp catalog bags to the freebies from air shows or AOPA. I finally settled on the Brightline Bags series. What I like about these is they are configurable to your current needs. I like a smaller bag for most flights but there are times I want to carry more gear and the Brightline series allows you to change the configuration. It also has a lot of small pockets for flashlights, keys, my CO detector, etc. The side adapters can be changed out. I have one set up to carry my handheld and the other the PLB. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

If you read several of the ADs and service bulletins related to these limitations, the main concern is not for short term usage but for continuous operation in the limited range. These ADs and bulletins talk about making sure the tachometer is calibrated correctly to avoid cruising in the restricted range. Like rags and you, there is no way I can fly an approach without being in the limited zone. I have always taken this restriction to mean not to fly a long flight sitting in the restricted zone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

When is the panel going to get done? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

The big question is will they mount to the buss bar without any modification. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

He’s probably looking for this. If he can’t find a used one, probably will need to see someone can print one. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Do you have a part number and price for that relay? And who did you order from? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I have a oil analysis done at oil change time. There are companies out there that do the testing. Wear Check and Blackstone are two you hear the most about. The kits are sold at most aircraft supply houses and they include a container for the sample and a return label for shipping it in. The tests are a nice way to track wear metals and also to see if you have contaminants being introduced (elevated silicon indicating a possible induction leak). There are a lot of owners who don’t do the analysis but many of us OCD types like to get a sense of what may be going on in the engine. If you change your own oil, it’s recommended that you pull the sample after letting the oil run for a few seconds. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I hear popping after landing on very hot and humid days. Leaning aggressively will eliminate it. How many hours do you have on your mags and plugs? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Do you know how much it protrudes from the roll cage when it is mounted? Bruce's way of doing is only about an 1/8" thickness.

It's good to hear you were able to find a cause. What confused me was you saying that out of sheer luck it worked a few months back. I would definitely get the wiring sorted out. You don't want an additional step in your AP setup, especially if you are dealing with high workload on an approach.

Do you have any specs on the relay that was used? (i.e. current equivalent relay part numbers)

Bruce is originally from Minnesota. Seemed like I ordered a lot of 3M stuff to do my interior [emoji1787] I think the white pieces were trimmed pieces of his side panels. The 3M “Velcro” he used needs to be flat to get the best adherence to the counter piece of the sidewall. The wider white pieces allowed the full Velcro to lay flat on it. He then used a double sided 3M tape to stick it on the tubing and then tie wraps to ensure it doesn’t pull off if you remove the side panels. I will say one thing. The screw-less approach is the way to go. My side panels have been off numerous times since they were installed for the CiES sender install, new avionics and just to check on the condition of the tubing. And oh yeah, when I replaced all of the RG-58 with RG-400. Here is another picture of them attached. What Bruce did to make sure the strips lined up correctly was to leave the side panel piece on the tubing and remove the covering tape once he had the fit correct. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

You ain’t LEDing unless you is pimping your ride. This is with them set to the max setting. I have a set of whites as well. Whites come in a variety of K values ranging from 4000K to 6500K. They are cheap enough that if you don’t like the ambiance you can pick up a different set. For older Mooney’s, I found a PWM controller does a great job of giving a wide range of dimming. Where some of these installations go astray is if they are powered on one end and run is long enough, they will be brighter on one side than the other. You can split them in two and wire each leg. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

It is the 3M stuff. Bruce uses it to attach side panels in place of screws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Unless you fly in really cold climates and it becomes a permanent unsquat switch. When I based in Buffalo, we had a few winters where we stayed below freezing for an entire month. That resulted in the donuts never expanding enough to make contact with the switch. I ended up installing the override switch found in later Mooney’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The landing light has a separate breaker and relay. You should be able to move to the free opening you have. The Piper rocker switches (which are not breakers) can be used. Is the light assembly missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Some of the models used an airspeed squat switch. If you have one, it will be attached to the back of the airspeed indicator. Here is what the mechanical squat switch looks like. As mentioned, on the left main. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hopefully Hank will come along and tell you what can be done with this model’s panel. My 75 F has some sort of Naugahyde and when it started to peel, it looked like crap. Maybe the covering can be removed and the panel underneath can be powder coated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There should be a yoke mounted switch for temporarily disabling the PC while you’re maneuvering. Many were converted to have a switch on the panel that allowed you to disengage the PC system completely. It just dumps the vacuum. It’s been a while since mine was removed but the servos are mounted on riveted panels in the last third of the wings. Look for red and green tubing. Typical failure mode is one of the black rubber servos failed or the tubing is cracked. The turn coordinator on mine used to be the “leveler” to correct turning tendencies in flight. Brittain Industries that made the autopilot may still be in business. The owner died but his wife I believe took it over. They were I thought based in the Oklahoma area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have both a Vertex and Icom. I like the Icom better mainly because the key strokes are easier. The display on the Icom is a bit brighter as well. BTW - Vertex was recently acquired by Motorola and I am starting to see them carrying the Motorola brand.

And I’m pretty sure I know why it blew. There was a broken wire at the rheostat. The plane goes in for annual tomorrow and we will confirm the circuit integrity. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

If that fuse/transistor panel didn’t require a whole lot of disassembly to get to, I’d probably have some adjustments made. I’ve owned the plane for 31 years and never knew exactly where this panel resided. I always thought it was tucked up with the shower of sparks or somewhere closer to the breaker panel. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

The worst part is where they mounted it. Center of the panel behind the throttle quadrant. Fortunately I know a 3 year old with small hands. Wonder if this constitutes a violation of a child labor law.