Mr Bill

Hello Mooney Owners. There is a unit already certified for about 2.2 AMU's. A whole lot less expensive than rebuilding the airplane and exposing a pilot to a possible 709 ride. http://www.p2inc.com/audioadvisory.asp for a demo click: "Test Flight" after the picture shows, click "Let's Fly" This is one option. several more on AC Spruce Regards, Mr Bill

Bill C, The Concorde recommended charger is the Battery Minder 244CEC1-AA-S5. It is a 24 volt 4 amp charger. The Concorde owners manual and maintenance manual (CMM) are on the Concorde site. The Battery minder site has lots of info also. They also have a bulletin not to use Battery Tender. So , in answer to your question, they recommend a slow charge to bring back discharged batteries, but read the Owners manual and judge for yourself. Good luck, I hope you can save those batteries, knowing what they cost. Mr Bill

Mark, Did your mechanic check for a stuck valve? Hope you can get this solved. There is a Lycoming Service Instruction 1425A that discusses this problem and how to repair without removing a cylinder. Best of luck on this Mr Bill Welcome to Adobe GoLive 5.htm

6758N, I got the wrong AD number. Here is the AD from the FAA website. The new caps solve one of the items. The wedge install would involve pulling two bladders. I thought I'd send along this info to save you trouble later, in case you didn't get this info with your bladders. Good luck on your project. Really nice work! Mr Bill Scan_0001.pdf Scan_0002.pdf Scan_0003.pdf

6758N, FYI, There is an AD M20 53 dated 03/2005. Involves some extra foam under the bladders and other items the FAA required. Great pictures. Very nice work! Mr Bill

Jesse, Agree with Landscaper. He needs to see your enthusiasm, and yea, bring him a "T" shirt. I wasn't trying to be a "naysayer" with my previous post. I just don't want to see you get burned with a huge corrosion bill. An airplane sitting in a hangar is an attractive home for critters, and they are usually hidden. If you can get the owner to deal with you and you get a SB-208B inspection that looks like this, I hope you can make this your bird. By the way, N1018C registration just expired 7/31/2017 That needs to be taken care of by the owner ASAP. http://www.mooney.com/en/sb/M20-208B.pdf Regards, Mr Bill

Jesse, Check "Corrosion Repair" in Modern Mooney Discussion page 2. Corrosion is the number one thing to check! By the way, I really like my cool T shirt. Mr Bill

Stetson20, Air Mods & Repair in Robbinsville, NJ has a C that might meet your criteria. 4400TT, 1000SMOH G430 No damage shown on Aircraft Query. Good luck on your search. Mr Bill

Hello All, I ordered mine before the group buy. If the battery life is not meeting specs, give them a call. Unit might be defective. They have excellent customer service. I spent several minutes on the phone with them going over the three models. Also, I found good prices on CR123A batteries. Mr Bill www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm

Mike, Have you considered an Airwolf Wet pump? They are a modern version of the highly reliable Pesco wet pump. Airwolf has all the paperwork for bolt in replacement. Regards, Mr Bill

Sfurr, If you need help for troubleshooting, Race City Aviation at 14A. If you need serious engine work, Triad in Burlington, NC is another option. Bill

The suction screen should be the next item to check if metal is found in the filter or pressure screen. Often neglected because of location. I have seen them full of carbon, which will restrict oil flow.

Has the SUCTION SCREEN been checked?

Amelia, Aero Engines in Winchester, VA. 540 678-1661. Highly regarded by the local flight schools. Superb job of flying, by the way. Regards, Bill

Hello SH, KSTS Cherokee 140 with 160HP $136/hr. N5825U , lots of instructors, 8 DPE's You will be pleasantly surprised how fast you will adapt to the cherokee, and get yout PPL. I just passed my 60th year flying airplanes, from Aeronca to Boeings and I find the way you are going about this is not producing the results you want. You have to hit all the ACS standards no matter who is giving the checkride, so go get your PPL in a trainer then transition to whatever you want later. Transition is done with a CFI not a DPE with an FAA checklist on his/her clipboard. They are free to question whatever they want regarding that airplane. By the way there are very specific procedures for placarding inop items, including logbook entries. FAR 91.213 Listen to Bonal and get your PPL. Mr Bill

One option is to have them sign off the inspection with a list of discrepancies, get another A&P to certify that airplane is safe to ferry, and get a ferry permit to get it to someplace where the work will get done. Another option is to hire the services of Mike Busch and let him arrange the next step, Don't let the shop remove any exterior skin panels until you know what your next step will be. If they do that, you will be stuck with this shop. Remember, the shop that does the inspection can provide a list of discrepancies and another shop may correct them. Once they are corrected and signed off, you will not need another annual.See FAR part 43. Good luck with your project. Bill

Hello All, Bogart Aviation tire bead breaker. I have a similar one. Works great on aircraft, garden tractor, etc. tires. Bill Scan0001.pdf

N201MKTurbo, I just scanned the manual on the Electroair website. Page 1.1 and installation pages state to set crankashaft at TDC before installing the Electroair system. You are probobly correct that the timing was at 50degrees BTC during the flight. I am not an engine expert, but I would sure consult one before flying this engine. Again, not an expert, but I would be reluctant to just set the timing and go. Bill

1968 M20G, airworthiness date on FAA site 7/29/68. Retractable step, fixed cowl flaps, "drooped" wing outer sections. Bill

Aircraft Spruce has Phillips 66 X/C MIL-PRF-5606H hydraulic fluid for $6.85 a quart.

Scan0001.pdf I attended the Geneseo Airshow a few years ago and Mohawk Valley Community College had a display for their one year A&P program. I was surprised to see a school getting this done in a year. It took me two years in 1960 and my son two years in 1984. Just shared information. I have no info about MVCC program other than what is on-line. Also, I just want to say tthat there is a wealth of information on "mooneyspace" and I read it everyday.

Good topic. Interesting demo on www.p2inc.com/audioadvisory.asp .

I passed the rope around the gear and hooked the rope. The hooks were not attached to the gear. I agree that poly line is probably better and that is what the glider tow planes use. I agree you should use any method to not scratch the paint. Your idea is great also. I think that the more people that try this and develop it further, the better it will be. It worked for me in my situation of towing up an incline in sod.

Scan0001.pdf I hope this PDF file goes through. I can not find the Goldline brand on the internet. I suggest a 3/8 inch anchor line from West Marine, although it will probably stretch more than the hard nylon Goldline brand. Get the "S" hooks at Tractor Supply or hardware store. Close one end with a vice or vicegrips I tried just tieing at the main gear, but found that the knot tightens during the tow and is hard to untie, therefore, I installed the "S" hooks. Again, I passed the rear loop through the tailhook eye, but it is not necessary. It did help on steering because it pulled the tail down slightly, and helped to aim the tail at the winch. Finally, keep everyone away from the sides near the rope, if it breaks, the rope will whip. Use a rated rope only. Finally, this puts the force where the drag is, at the main gear, not through your fuselage structure.Scan0001.pdf

Hello All I had a situation with an M20G, pulling up an incline on grass. The strain on the tail hook seemed excessive so I made a loop of 5/16 goldline nylon with hooks at each end. The hook ends are looped around the main gear, and the loop is passed through the tailhook for steering alignment only. The winch hook is simply hooked to the loop behind the tail. Now all the force is on the main gear, where the drag is (on grass). Never had to worry about the tailhook again. Works really slick. I got the nylon line at an outdoor shop where they have climbing supplies.