aaronk25

Hi All. It’s been a few years and I got around 500 hours on the engine. Not a single issue. Speed is within margin of error, best I can tell exactly the same as when the motor was just broken in. I still don’t know if the extra steam under the cowl came from the power flow exhaust or jewel, but it runs great and oil consumption is a quart in 10hours or better. Jewel is one of the best kept secrets! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The replacement fuel servo did work. The cost to r and r the first and install the 2nd one was on me, however in hindsight I could have done a better job in the preplaning and would have known this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I flew in there 5 years ago at 1am. Out at 3pm. They brought me in over teterboro and it was a piece of cake. Leaving was easy too as the GA side of the airport taxi way was empty, but the big birds were lined up 20 deep on the airport side. I made sure to honor the 20 degrees left after take off instructions to get my ass out of the way of position and hold traffic on the runway behind me. If I remember right I departed VFR, but came in ifr and there wasn’t any reservation system I was aware of back then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ya that’s way up there though in altitude. I got to be PIC, in one a couple years back and coming from my J, it was awesome. After running hard I backed it down to peak, 12.8gph, 2200rpm somewhere around 30” and was truing at 183kts at 16 or 17,000. It’s been a couple years but that was impressive from a efficiency standpoint of a fire breathing dragon (compared to the j) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

1600 hours on fine wire tempests! Look almost like new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Id push as hard as I could just to get the prop repaired or replaced without a tear down, unless you want a insurance paid IRAN done on your engine. It’s a joke that this ding could cause engine damage as a result of the impact, but I do know how the directives are written. I’d try to avoid it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I could have missed it but, maybe something got screwed up in the mag at overhaul? Pull them and IRAN them? Saw it listed before, but Champion plugs have caused this before. Maybe a plug wire arching? Replace plug wires if they are borderline. My bet is somthing in the mag or a improper rebuild. Grease or some foreign object shorting out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ya it was probably the cam lobe with 2 lobes.....I think that is what everyone means. Yep there the ones that fail it seams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The centrilube cam and ney nozzles for that matter is smoke and mirrors, even with a pre-oiler. With thick aviation oil, when cold oil isn’t gonna spray out of the holes and it’s gonna take 250-1000rpms according to Ed Collins, to get a significant amount of oil pumping out of the can shaft. Sure a pre-oiler will pump some oil up to the valve train but that’s not where the critical corrosion induced wear and tear takes place. It’s on the cam lobes as well as the cylinder barrels. The pre-Oiler combined with the cebtrilube still won’t coat the whole cam with oil, only the fog of oil mist from the engine running and splashing oil will. If one side of the lifter or cam lobe stays unlubed and is dry and has corrosion taking place, its almost as bad as have the whole cam dry as any small failure of the cam/lifters will be grounds for a tear down. The only way to adequately oil and protect the engine with a renewed oil film is to run the engine up to speed for a period of time. The only good way to protect a engine is to keep clean, oil on all the parts by running often and changing oil frequently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The stain looks like lead from the exhaust similar to what you see inside the pipe. It just sucks around the end of the pipe in flight due to the exhaust shape creating a little low pressure zone behind the pipe. That’s my take on it anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Neil thank you! Maybe now we will have some believers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The fuel smell when leaning video I think is on the beech owners group. I’m trying to get logged in to find it. I’ve search you tube high and low and it’s not on there any more. It showed a camera mounted under cowl inflight with voice over the video and as he leaned and came upon peak egt fuel started spitting out of the vent hole. If anyone is on the beech Owens group try a search for “fuel smell leaning” and I bet it will come up. Again it only happened with Gamis. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Glad you don’t have this problem. It’s a pain. 15-30psi is the similar to house water pressure. Unless the line is finger loose that ain’t the problem. I bet I have 50 hours into diagnosing this issue. On you tube there was a banana driver who actually put a camera on the gami in flight to show the fuel spitting out when leaning. Gami should have stepped up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Exactly the problem I had. Let me guess just before peak egt and then crossing stochimetric mixture (peak egt) that’s when you smell it, I bet. At ROP no problem, lean it out and fuel smell comes back. Alternatively reduce manifold pressure 1/2” the lean and I bet you a Ben Franklin there is no smell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The problem on my J was with the gami injectors. I removed them and reinstalled the factory injectors and no issues. The gami injector is concave on the bottom vs the flat lycoming injector. My theory is that there is some positive air pressure intermittently that travels back up the intake when the intake valve snaps shut. The concave design of the gami directs this up the injector and fuel spits out. The lycoming does not do this. Yes they were aligned correctly and every injector was changed at least 3 times by Gami. It’s a design flaw. Now what they should do is give us the turbo injectors with the inlets faced toward the high pressure air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you take care of the motor a regular set of cylinders should last 2000-4000 hours.....these coatings can come off and/or are a pain if not impossible to break in. Just thoughts and comments from a and p friends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So back on the auto engine debate. Given these aircraft engines are old designs it’s still impressive that the hp is as close as I can tell exactly the same at 2700rpm as the direct injection 5.3 truck motor sitting in front of me. 200hp at 2700 rpms. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

VW TDI from 2009. .196! http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/File:Vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Was this new mounts or existing mounts. Mine was shimmed with new mounts same as you described above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ya I’m in the not possible camp.....couple gallons when full though the cap seal, maybe... I bet this guy had some good fish stories too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

On my J we replaced all the mounts and even right off the bat installed 2 lower shims, which according to instructions is the most shims you can put on it and it still in my opinion needs to come up just a hair to align perfectly with the cowl. Maybe the cowl is slightly high.....? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Closing the cowl flaps from trail to closed boosts heat by like double or triple in a “J” model. I the winter cooling isn’t a issue, at least for me so I get those blasted things shut ASAP after take off and that’s if I opened them at all if it’s really cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So found elongated holes in the cowl flap linkage assembly. Been having a vibration and can visibly see it in the glare shield. The intensity increased with airspeed in cruise or power on decent but reduced when power was pulled back, even in a steep decent with a increase in airspeed. It was not not present in climb airspeeds, but came on strong after leveling and adding + 20kts. Sure enough cowl flaps had enough wear in the upper linkage so that when the prop was reduced in rpm and it the blades took a bigger “bite” the air blast hitting the closed cowl flaps had the right rhythm to get the slop in the cowl flap dancing to the beat of the prop blast. Errrrrr. This was a tough one to track down. So grab your cowl flaps and check them for play you m20j drivers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You got it man! Hey did you iron numbers get inline? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hey jetdriven, easy now it was the POS lycoming brand new camshaft that failed not the lifter. I would have, the first time around opted for new lifters to match but bulldoc engines put in reground lifters. However that shop and Jewel both said they were done with new lycoming lifters. Jewel said when it comes to cam and lifters Sam and David Jewell said “don’t use either cam or lifters new from lycoming”. Now that was 3 years ago and I haven’t asked them about the newer revisions lycoming is now producing but one thing was clear and that was both shops saw failures with lycoming parts. I’m currently at Jewels recommendation running both cam and lifters reground and hardened from ASL. 400 hours great oil analysis. I offered to pay the upcharge and he talked me out of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro