aaronk25

Have mine checked at every annual, what a difference! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What a ugly rat of a plane. Last cleaning was when it left the factory. And no, no one is gonna sign off on a ferry flight with a smashed wing like that lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ed Collins did a seminar on multi-weight oil. Covering both topics, I think I layed the logic out why multi weight protects better at higher oil temps. A 50w oil is still pretty thick compared to 20w at 65f, Given most of the engine wear occurs at start the sooner oil can be pumped the better. A lighter weight oil will always offer quicker cold start lubrication compare to a 50w. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Anthony has some good points, I’ll just comment further to say that at operational temps in cruise the 20w-50 vs straight 50 is the same viscosity, or very very close. Only difference is the 20w 50 is thinner at cold temps so in theory more could get though larger tolerances until warmed up but I think we’re splicing hairs. If the oil became over heated say 250f. The 20w-50 oil would be thicker than the 50 because the viscosity modifiers will continue to reduce the rate at which the 20w oil thins, until the point it gets to hot and the modifiers shear, but that’s really really hot like 300f ++. Off topic, as i am a big fan of multi weight oil as it protects the engine Better at at start up and in overheat conditions. 50w, is better at storage as when it cools it thins at a slower rate, so at room temps it is thicker (50w vs 20w) and stays on cylinders for a longer period of time during storage. Just a private pilot (not a chemist). That line was for Anthony [emoji3]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Very sorry. Sounds like a great best friend! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not sure how reliable the poh is for glide when discussing a specific hull. My 77j when the blue lever is pulled all the way back still wins mills at 1600rpms or so (it’s been a while). A rented 82j I did the same test in went down to 500rpms, same conditions. I observed 750fpm on the 77’ and 550fpm on the 82. No idea why such a big difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I should have had that coming back from Phoenix to MN non-stop this past Wed. It was -10c and I still can’t believe how much and how quickly accumulated. If it was -5f I wouldn’t have went into the clouds. So not to proud I got into the crap but I sure as hell did something about it like “RIGHT NOW”! I’m starting to think about selling my J for a TKS equipped turbo. Anyhow pretty cool that a J can cruise from PHX to RST (Rochester MN) non stop at FL190 and theoretically land with 2 hours of fuel left! Unfortunately the ice made me divert, as I was almost home. It ran across my mind this is how a accident happens, long flight so close to home.....get out of this crap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Does this need to be checked? Besides cutting filters? I want to say I have a great mechanic and he has never brought this up or logged it. Is it required and if so what does lycoming say? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

N201BJ, looks like a Robert Wheeler jr, appears from a search he was a defense lawyer, in middlesex county. Connecting some dots, could be wrong. So sad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That paint scheme on the tail I believe is around a 77 or 78 I model, but I’m not for certain. Sad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Wouldn’t a cyl with just one plug firing run cooler because the net effect is the same as retarding the timing and the egts would go up because of less complete combustion; more un used energy out the tail pipe? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

God Bless. I’m just reading the events now and my heart sinks. Aaron Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

All I can say is if any prospect “for sale” has one of those black things bolted to the bottom of it.....”next, nope, see ya, don’t care if you can take it off”! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks for clarifying for me. I got the old one with knobs! Apologies, I could of swore it was a 74 but defiantly not. Met with the avionics shop and were doing the 345r panel mount so the Bluetooth works hopefully! Thank you,. Aaron Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Very well thought out. I’m on the fence but I think the panel mount might be advantageous for the reasons you mentioned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just got a older 396 battery back up with xm weather, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hoping someone can offer some advice. Got a 77j with a garmin 650 and a old kt-74, transponder. Just got a quote from the avionics shop for $6,500 bucks to install my choice of either remote mount transponder and use the 650 transponder page to enter sqwak code or slide the gtx-645r in the old spot. Hard part is I’d really like the new trutrack auto pilot and/or the Dynon efis. I have a century 3 autopilot mostly rebuilt, but would really like the new features that newer autopilots have. So the Dynon/true track options makes the most sense for the price, but if I wait it may be a long time for approval, right? If I go that route I’d want to use Dynon hardware for adsb compliance. Or so I blow the money on the garmin transponder now? Just curious what your thoughts are. I know a lot more about the plane than I do avionics packagers some I hoping someone can steer me in what makes the most practical sense. Thanks! Aaron Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Momma might have had some directive in determining the “right time to do it” I bet.[emoji848][emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Beautiful family! I’m looking forward to taking my son (first ride up soon). Yours looks about the same age? 10month-year? Take care, Aaron Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If your gonna show up heck I might have to buzz over there[emoji23]!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Shouldn’t really matter what oil as long as it’s the common aviation oil, 15w-50, 20w-50 or straight 50w, at 212f there all the same viscosity as a straight 50w and if he got the oil slightly hot say 230f or more, the multi-weight oil would have a thicker viscosity than the straight weight oil due to the viscosity modifiers still continuing to “uncoil” meaning that as the multiweight oil continues to rise it in temp it will thin at a slower rate than the straight weight oil. Until it’s gets really hot300-400f???? Where the viscosity modifiers shear back, well then your stuck with a 15w or a 20w oil viscosity at 350f. Not good...... Target temp for 50w correct viscosity is 100c/212f. After that the multiweight oil is better......and way better for cold starts. I wouldn’t worry about it to much unless your deep in yellow. Low rpm and hot oil doesn’t make normal pressure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

M20j here, had original exhaust and then upgraded to power flow. It does make more power and is faster but only measurable in climb at 2700rpm full throttle cruise. No difference at 2400rpm. It makes sense the engine breaths better and appreciably better at higher rpms when there is less time for exhaust to be pushed out. Added 3kts. Biggest improvement was 20-30f lower chts at any power setting which I would expects as almost any performance exhaust should accomplish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

4 years ago over Iowa heading home to MN from Florida I froze the oil cooler on my J model. I did not put a strip of aluminum tape over the oil cooler as I normally would due to the warm departure temps. It was at -38f when the oil went from 164 to 210 then in 2 mins to 220. I got it stopped at 230 by going about 80 lop, and increasing rpms. Scary deal. At night. That cold and the airports are all IFR, due to ice crystals blowing around. A person could land in a really nice field 1/4 mile from a farm house and freeze to death. My limit is now -20f. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If that isn’t it, all I can offer is after much time invested on my M20j I pulled the gamis out. At full throttle John Paul was getting erratic results where different ones would peak at different times. He chaulked it up to a air leak in the motor. Not the case, same problem after overhaul. Other issue was blue staining around the injectors. If a person looks close at a gami the area where the fuel comes out has a concave bowl shape where the lycoming injector is flat. At full throttle on my plane and some other Js it appears, we’re getting localized pressure inside the intake tubes which is same as outside atmospheric pressure and some fuel was actually spitting out the hole in the side of the gami injectors. In my case we think the concave shape of the gami face catches the very brief but present localized high pressure air created by the intake valve momentarily snapping shut just downstream of the injector. The lycoming ones don’t do this. If we pulled the throttle back .5” of MP we could tune the gamis perfectly. That just seemed like a joke to me so we pulled the gamis and switched around the lyc injectors and got the spread to .3. Close enough. So I believe gami has some more homework to do on lyc planes with low restriction intakes such as the M20j. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Gen 2, is what I got, that latest one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro