M20F

Mineral Spirits and PH neutral car soap. There are lots of things which will clean as good or maybe even better but really isn't worth the corrison risk to me.

I use an Aerox mask/mic combo at all altitudes. I find the cannulas to be uncomfortable and dry my nose out and given 2000lbs of O2 lasts me a year plus the savings discussion oxisaber versus mask doesn't even entrr into the equation. If I fly high it is generally FL190-210 otherwise I am 9000-11000 feet.

If you have to sell you are going to be better off selling as is. You won't get the overhaul cost back and personally (and this is just me) I would prefer overhauling myself if buying. I also am suspect of planes freshly overhauled and put up for sale. You can always list and then if needed overhaul so worth going the easiest route first. As others have said though I would figure out what exactly the problem is before I just decided to overhaul.

Oil on the plug has nothing to do with leaning on the ground or in the air. The oil may burn off if you lean for sure but that is just getting rid of it, leaning isn't the cause.

Peak EGT is where you develop the most horsepower in the example Jetdriven gives he uses that as baseline, changes RPM, and keeps fuel flow constant. The thing changing here is % of power. You don't run at peak EGT burning xxgph and then shift to 40LOP still burning xxgph and increase 7 knots without an increase in power, there is no free lunch. My point isn't to debate LOP/ROP just pointing out if you want to determine prop efficiency than everything else has to remain constant while only the prop changes to determine the ideal setting. That setting could be (and probably is) different based on things like density altitude, % of power, etc.

Airworthiness

Your test though measured different % of power and the result in speed/FF that doesn't really show what is going to be the most efficient RPM setting at say 65% power.

Make sure you get the US Customs sticker for your return.

Make sure the person you are partnering with has the same ideas as you and you have a good clear system for expenses, upgrades, etc. Partnerships can be tricky things.

So Erik a Vespa scooter leaves KINT at 1800zulu, while at the same time Maurader leaves KFXE in his M20F.....

Yeah my bad, fingers quicker than the brain.

Is there any LED bulb that just drops into the map/panel flood lights?

Still can!

You are correct and I had them on mine (since replaced).

Not true a lot of shops offer warranties on accessories and cylinders if they don't do the overhaul. Popular Grove would be one example http://poplargroveairmotive.com/warranty/ As Ross stated the biggest issues with a factory overhaul is you do not get your engine back, you get somebody else's back which to me is very disconcerting because you have no idea what the condition is on any of the parts other than "minimum required'. If you send in a motor that has a crank with 1hr on it they will take that crank out and resell that individual part for a lot of money because it is way above tolerance. They will then take a crank out of a box which meets minimums and put it in your motor. You also pay a lot more for this. Certainly doing a field overhaul isn't for everyone but there are a lot of good shops like Zephyr, Popular Grove, etc. that do overhauls and they are a pile of money cheaper than Lycoming and you get much better feedback on what the motor looked like when they got it so you know if you need to look at other things along with a list of everything that went into it and the details of those parts. Just my opinion

Aggressive leaning or lack thereof isn't going to cause oil to get on the plug. Details on checking valve guides: http://www.caa.si/fileadmin/user_upload/pageuploads/AD-NOTE/AD-2006/093_sb_SB388C.pdf Do you have 1/2" or 7/8" valves? Rebuilding the cylinder (piston, rings, valves, etc.) is reasonably cheap. If the stem breaks you are minimum buying a new cylinder and at worst overhauling the engine. Not saying on the basis of one instance of oil to rush to change it but I definitely would troubleshoot it quickly and if it is a valve problem get it sorted before it becomes a really expensive problem.

I recommend All American Aircraft and they will work to get rid of both the old and find you a new one. Dave & Jimmy are great and they stand by their word (and that cost them on my deal and I pay it back every time somebody asks about them). Good luck in the search sounds like you have it dialed in as to what you want.

Maybe but you don't know because they don't tell you. In terms of $$$'s you can get all new parts and a lot of other stuff when you do it yourself for a lot less. I just can't see an compelling economic advantage to going with the factory and from a piece of mind state I like to know exactly what is in the engine. Doing mine we made a list of everything that went in either new or old including all the numbers so I know now exactly what I have. You just don't get that on a factory overhaul.

If you have 1/2" valves and the other cylinders look good (compression, borescope, not too loose/tight on the valves, etc.) I would personally just replace the cylinder with a new one. There are some things to consider though. If you found all the valve parts than life is grand. If you can't find all the valve parts than it either went out the exhaust or it went somewhere in the case which is bad. In my case having a Rayjay turbo was a positive in the valve was found quickly, bad in the sense that the turbo needed work. The other thing to consider is to be counted as an overhaul you need to replace certain parts and one of those things is all the exhaust valves. So if you do this cylinder and next year you decide to do the other three and split the case your choice is either redo a cylinder with 100hrs or call it a repair/return. In my case I had a cylinder with less than 50hrs and don't have any plans to sell so the wording in the paperwork which impacts resale didn't matter to me, for all reality I have a firewall forward engine it just isn't written that way because 1 cylinder didn't get redone. If somebody else flew the bulk of those 1000hrs you also don't know how those cylinders were treated. Overhauling wide deck cylinders is a lot cheaper than buying a new one (and you might want to be sitting down when you get the price on a new cylinder/piston/rings), thus if you overhaul them all now (top it) you can probably do that for less than what 2 new cylinders would cost (the one you are buying now and the one you might have to buy if you snap another valve in the near future) assuming your cores are good. I would really get a good set of eyes on the cylinders and if there is any suspicion top it. Do a lot of research, ask a lot of questions, and remember everyone in aviation has crazy opinions (I gave you mine) so make your own decisions. While expensive it is a nice feeling when you come out the other side with the knowledge you have a motor which only you will abuse and all things being equal get at least 10yrs of use out of before you have to spent a ton of $$ again.

If you sucked in a valve and the cylinder is beat up odds are you can't overhaul it and will need a new one. The other issue is finding the valve itself has the mechanic been able to locate it? Given you have a J I don't think you would have the 7/8 valves but if you do I would definitely recommend getting them all replaced with 1/2 valves. I sucked one valve (7/8) in mine and intended to replace all three cylinders the following annual. I made it five more months and sucked in another one and decided at that point to do the case and replace the other three (now all with 1/2 inch). A compression check is just going to tell you that you don't have a problem, not necessarily the cylinder doesn't have an impending issue. Likewise even inspecting with a borescope isn't isn't always going to tell you about the valve guides (too loose or too sticky) see Lycoming SB388C.

If it was a clogged injector you should have only seen CHT/EGT drop on one cylinder, do you have multi probe EGT/CHT gauge?

The only thing that is going to burn (somethings may smolder) in the cowling is 100LL and if you remove that from the equation (fuel shut off) the fire is going to go out. The side effect is going to be the engine is going to quit which means you are landing soon. I would be hesitant to jump in a 4000FPM dive as I may need that altitude to make a safe landing site. In any case the fire isn't going to kill you if anything it would be the smoke.

http://mooneyspace.com/topic/16668-mooney-technical-publications-on-their-website/

Skydrol is my guess just bubbling and peeling the paint.

Looks like skydrol peeled some paint hard to tell from the picture.