M20F

I changed my O-Rings after similar situation and problem resolved. Could be they were installed incorrectly or the new ones were just bad. Cheap fix and would be first thing I try.

It is easy enough if you pull a cylinder to get a good view of the crank and cam with a bore scope to determine condition. If you go with a replacement you have to make sure all your accessories are going to work on it and verify any STC'S are not serial number specific.

I would second this but use Camguard because near as I can tell it can't hurt anything and it is cheap.

The only thing that complicates it is if you want the word "overhaul" in the book. The bottom requires removal the top doesn't. Thus if you didn't do the cylinders there should be minimal incremental expense. We have no idea from the original poster if the cylinders are also 1500hrs or maybe they are only 200hrs. IRAN works just as well on engines as it does on anything else. I am not advocating short cuts but it is silly IMHO to spend money to fix things that don't need to be fixed just so you can meet the minimum requirements for the word "overhaul".

I don't think anyone is suggesting hiding the problem just repairing what needs to be repaired. Mike Elliot gives a good example. If the issue is a crack in the case why would redoing the cylinders and other parts be beneficial if they don't actually need it?

Overhaul, factory reman, etc. are all somewhat dubious. To count as an overhaul as example you need to do the cylinders, if the OP has low time good cylinders is it really worth redoing them to put the word overhaul in the book? In a lot of cases a repair and return is a lot cheaper and from a mechanical perspective is just as good as doing an overhaul. When Mike Bush says he is 2000hrs past TBO he isn't saying he did nothing to the engine, just a lot of repair/return over time versus doing a major overhaul. To really know which way to go you need to know when the cam/crank were last replaced, try to get an idea of their condition today, what is the time on the cylinders, etc. and most importantly what is your long term plan for the plane. If the idea is to sell a plane in 18 months or less than from a financial perspective pumping $30-40k into a factory reman is going to be a loser. Getting the case welded is probably $3-6K and while you won't get that in the sale at least you lose a lot less.

Take off, retract manual gear, it a bump IFR, have the gear handle pop out, try to retract at 120, lose track of attention because you are messing with the gear, think the horn is the gear horn because you are messing with gear and forgetting you have full throttle in. In my case recovery occurred prior to stall but it was close enough. I would echo the advice on practicing stalls in a Mooney. Practicing slow flight and the edge of stalls so you get a feel for what to look for is more than sufficient in my book. They aren't very forgiving in a lot of cases and they don't spin for more than 1-2 rotations before going into a spiral. A spin is an acrobat maneuver which is fun, a spiral isn't.

Make sure you put some tire talc on the tubes. i have read baby powder has some abrasives in it which makes it not a good substitute.

Once you go with step 1 you may have to proceed with step 2 based on what the inside look like. How many hours on the cylinders, do you plan on selling the plane at some point?

Did the C and 201 both have stall strips?

Cirrus's are great planes if you like automation, hand flying them is terrible. I find the seats and shoulder harness in the SR-22 to be highly uncomfortable as well. Overall not a real fan of them personally, would be the last plane I would ever choose to own.

What myth, didn't you get a decoder ring when you bought your plane?

Fly away gear is on the load sheet of every freighter I have worked and on occasion it comes off to squeeze on a bit more cargo and they pick up a new set down line.

I have a set hidden on the airframe but in a pinch it isn't all that tough to hotwire an ajrplane. Simplest and least safe being just running jumper cables from the battery to the starter. At some point I want to replace my key start with a button like you would see on a twin just to make things a lot easier. After reading this thread odds are I will now lose a set of keys.....

It is all a function of TAS +/- winds. For a normally aspirated airplane flying above the altitude where you develop your cruise power setting (i.e. about 9000 feet to get 65% in a normally aspirated Mooney) generally is almost never worth it, unless some awesome winds. Even then you have to factor how long and how slow you are going to go getting high. The book is relatively accurate in terms of TAS and climb rates + forecasted winds, just do the math and you can make the determination as to what is going to get you there the quickest. Key thing to keep in mind is forecasted winds do change. I have a Rayjay so a bit more practical to get up high, in order to keep cool in the climb I need to do 120-130mph which means 500FPM. Nothing worse than spending 40 mins climbing up and figuring out the best winds actually were 6000 feet below FL190 after you get there. Even worse than that is deciding to go back down to 13000 only to find the winds at FL190 were 30kts better given your current position :-)

Dawn is going to strip off any wax you have so wouldn't use it unless that is your intent. A good wash followed by a waxing (I reccomend Collonite 845) is what you want. After flying use generic lemon pledge and a microfiber cloth, the bugs will slide right off.

I have an EI MVP-50 and the totalizer works great. The individual tank gauges are the same as the analog ones, fairly useless once they burn down. I would guess your experience will be the same. I have been very happy with my EI unit for 3yrs now.

It seems from looking through the various websites that Ovations sell faster and hold their value better than the Eagles as well. Nothing scientific to back that up, just the impression I walk away with.

Was a new cam installed when it was overhauled?

The airplane was out of rig :-)

Good choice Maurader, I really like mine.

Would second this. Land a little rough, land on grass, etc. and they go. In the grand scheme of flying a led replacement is cheap and then you can just leave it on all the time. My two cents anyways.

The easiest way I have found to keep the filter from making a mess is just bring a cheap plastic shopping bag. Cover filter with bag and twist off. Works great.

The only problem with the mile high club and a Champ is you have to get out and push to get to 5000 feet ;-)

I keep mine outside and if I had chosen a hanger in the past five years the difference between that and a tie down equates to 50% of the aircrafts value. Nothing against hangers but if the idea is they protect an investment, it isn't a very cost effective insurance policy. Most people I know in hangers spend more on their hangers than on gas flying in a year. The best things for airplanes is to fly them, lack of that more than anything causes expense. As others mentioned being 40+ minutes away limits the greatest preventive thing you can do, which is fly. And isn't that the point? My two cents.