M20F

Each spring I do Dawn to strip followed by wash then clay bar and then Collonite 485 which is pretty much hands down the best wax you can buy. I pick up 2-4 knots (some of that is probably just measurement error or temps) for a flight or two and then it goes back to normal. I generally make it to about July till I get too lazy to pledge the bugs off and then I lose a couple knots :-)

What if the plane is on a treadmill.....

I would add Hector did mine and no issues with the clock and he built me new PTT/Autopilot tab thing on the yoke that is super sweet. Mine is in the process of getting some other work done so no pictures but got to say best $700 I ever spent, couldn't be happier and they feel as great as they look.

We use a http://www.amazon.com/Red-Dragon-VT-2-23-000-BTU/dp/B00004Z2FP/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1424869766&sr=1-1&keywords=weed+torch

Main Turbo is a great resource for any and all turbo related stuff, they have done good work on my friends 320 and my Rayjay. For at least the Rayjay the keeping it working expense has been low for me and well worth the benefit. The turbo bullet being a charger instead of a normalizer adds a differing set of problems but if you manage power as if a normalizer you should see the same mileage I would think.

Pulling the mags is a process and it takes a fair amount of hours so I would suggest when you do them to do both. Moomey didn't make them super easy to get on and off (at least on my F model).

Get an extension cord that has the little light in the plug so you can see you have power coming.

Reiff System + Cowel blanket for me, never had an issue finding a place to plug in while traveling. A lot easier to put on a cover and plug in than mess around with forced air heaters.

I really don't reccomend somebody doing this without knowing how. A lot of possibilities to break a plug, set the gap wrong, getting anti-seize all over, etc. It is definitely easy enough to do but if it is your first time you really want somebody who knows what they are doing to walk you through it.

Hi, I have a http://www.amazon.com/Hangar-Micro-Digital-Tachometer-HAN156/dp/B0006N72U2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422450407&sr=8-1&keywords=rc+tachometerwhich works well.

In terms of bang for your buck an F/E is going to be your best option. You can made immaculate versions of either in the 60-75k range whereas a J with same engine time and radios is going to be 30-50K more. Fundamentally there isn't much difference between the three models. I agree we don't fly for financial reasons but finances sure play a big role in it. I could have easily afforded a 252 including operating it. At the end of the day I take 3-4 long trips a year. The extra speed isn't going to save me that much but I would rather take all that money I saved and do something else with it. I got a RayJay in mine so when I need to go high for weather, mountains, etc. I can and when I come west to east I can do 220+knots at times smoking any J. I beat my friends 320 on trips all the time because while he has more speed, I have more range as another example. I have nothing against newer Mooney's but owning an Acclaim S as example would just be a waste for me, I don't fly that type of mission profile and it would be a big waste of money that I could be doing something else with. I see all kinds of people at the airport with planes that are just more than what they need. These are always the ones who eventually stop flying because the cost or complexity just becomes to much. Often times I think if they would have bought with their head instead of their heart they would still be flying. Mission and finances should be the only two choices in an aircraft purchase IMHO.

METARS are derived from French is my understanding (which is why BR is mist) so would think the P/M tie to some French word other than plus/minus. Just a guess though.

Hi no but they do write them up and ground them. We have a Tiger that has sat for as long as I can remember at 06C with flat tires and a broken rear window. The back seat is filled with papers from FAA grounding the plane (along with bird nests, rat nests, and a lot of droppings and other interesting things).

Somebody can correct me but I believe the DC9 was the last one to be made with the yoke attached to the controls. Boeing or Airbus these days there is a computer between you and the control surfaces.

Fairly certain the bird was checking Foreflight prior to boarding to check conditions enroute.

Been a lot of places and seen a lot of things but this is a new one for me.

I learned to fly in an AC560. 200lbs of baggage, 150 gallons of fuel, and 7 people in the seats for 145kts at 25 gallons an hour. If I could find one I would buy it, greatest twin ever made imho.

Bonanza

Nose up or nose down isn't the driving factor it is g-loading that impacts stall speed for the most part. You build that by pulling back on the yoke in the turn to hold altitude or minimize speed increase. You can bank 90 degrees but if you let the nose fall as needed to keep 1g the stall speed isn't going to increase. You put in a 90 degree bank and try to hold altitude it obviously is a very different story. Fly a stabilized and sufficent pattern and don't load up the wings and you will never have a problem. Once you feel those G's coming on though that should be your first and most important indicator that you are headed for a problem.

Really don't understand the fear of banking beyond 30 degrees base to final either, the nose should be pointed down at this point. Banking and yanking is a problem, but with down pitch you aren't going to stall if you keep the wings unloaded.

The main issue imho isn't over shooting the turn but keeping the base way to tight. I shoot for about 400' AGL on final on the glide slope which will get you in on engine failure and give you some room to maneuver if you do over shoot a bit. I see people all the time turning base almost over the numbers, run a nice pattern and avoid the situation where you have to crank it around is my take. Fly safe!

I would have questioned the controller. You acknowledged the clearance therefore the controller would have the expectation you would descend at 500 FPM to 3000, not discretion. It potentially causes us all an issue when we get a clearance we aren't clear on and then don't question it. Best thing to always do is question it, not just assume and go about doing what you think was intended. Fly safe!

Zip tie onto oil filler tube here as well

Left hand on the yoke and right hand pouring ice tea through the roll.

I have always wondered about that but never seen any performance numbers or anything about Bill Wheat or somebody in the know talking about it. Just sticking a second motor on essentially a M20 frame I have to think would have been a big hit on speed, range, and useful load. Has to be some reason why it never got off the board as that was the time period when piston twins were selling well, always wondered why it never went forward and guessing lack of performance was the cause. Would love to learn more if somebody has more details.