jetdriven

I had a lady once on the way back from $100 hamburger….she emptied the contents of the hamburger lunch into her $500 Kate spade purse

There was some kind a thing about champion fine wire plugs cracking the insulators which caused preignition a few years ago.

Lycoming says it is. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/SI1154W Approved Starters and Alternators.pdf

I have one in stock. pM me

MZ4222. Bulletproof

Inquiring minds want to know who built the alternator.

I would still call AirPower and have them call the factory and ask them on your behalf. Sometimes they require you to get the rebuild instead of overhaul but with a cost of everything else it still may be cheaper that way.

Sometimes continental give you some core amnesty. I have a friend with a baron who ran it until the engine seized and threw a rod, and they gave them full core credit for a rebuilt engine from the factory.

What is the in-place part of the prebuy is the seller’s a&p shop?

I had barry mounts for years but the plane buzzed. i just changed them to lord and that stopped. get the lord mounts

Good point. I used my 12v dewalt. It sparks nicely

take a cordless drill and hold it 1 foot away from antenna and rapidly pull trigger and stop. it should show strikes

This is a client of mine who got his engine back from Jewel for a cracked case case replacement. They used a case shop in Tulsa who is known to cut corners, and low and behold, it’s leaking a quart every three hours from a blind hole. Lycoming says replace the case because it’s cracked and it can’t be leaking oil from the blind hole….Jewel said squirt glue in the hole and put a bolt in it and go on it’s fine cover it up. You guys spend your money where you want to, but this is where you’re going to get from Sam Jewell because it is proven verifiable fact.

Just use a sharp #30 bit and get each rivet exactly drilled thru the center.

That looks like a mid body line drawing with a shorter rear window.

You cannot set the dual magneto engine to 20°. Whoever told you that is giving you bad information to cover up some other problem. Look at the type certificate data sheet, it’s only optional for non-D suffix engines. Whoever told you that is giving you Incorrect information to cover up some other problem, Because if it doesn’t run right at 25° it’s not right. I have a small feeling that your problem may not have been fixed.

The only difference between flying here or anywhere else is that you need to take the online course that takes about a half hour. And you need to establish to a radio communication and be told to “proceed on course” before entering the SFRA area. That and keep the squawk code assigned until after landing. Basically, never squawk 1200. Or you can just do IFR and treat it like any other day.

That’s great info. The older J models have hard aluminum tubing and your technique is not possible. I spent dozens of hours trying to bleed mine with this setup, they’re just ok

im not sure where you found these STC's but the missile conversion is for J models and, if you could buy the STC from Rocket, would cost 100K+ to do.

If it’s not in the limitations section it’s not a limitation. That said I stay within the factory graphs, and those allow 2000 RPM at 26” of MP and also says “lean as far as you want to for smooth operation”. Ours is smooth to 75 LOP. Efficiency below about 25 gets worse quickly.

Bonanza prices took a huge dump about that time. Mike smith had a simple mod with a tail cuff that effectively ended V-tail failures and breakups. The AD specified this cuff on D and later models. Since then, I don’t think there’s been a single tail failure precipitating an inflight breakup.

I’m not condoning it I’m just merely mentioning that I know a guy who changed the gain Settings and it fix the problem. It is fixable. It seems that Garmin may be more Concerned about what looks proper than what actually works. It can be fixed, you do some more flight testing and you change the settings to where it doesn’t porpoise in cruise, and then you issue a service letter. There’s a whole thread over on Beechtalk regarding a -3° down angle in cruise in a bonanza in level flight. And we all know that airplanes really don’t fly with a nose below the horizon…., and it’s the same thing a Garmon rep gets at all high and mighty and said you are illegal and you are breaking the law and your plane in Unairworthy if you reset the pitch to zero in Cruise even though every Aircraft Theyve ever flown including about six or eight jet transport airplanes also show +2 to +3 positive pitch in cruise. And that the attitude indicator they removed also had an adjustable Horizon bar to compensate for this. Anyway, I’ve seen this regarding other issues and although I appreciate their stuff should be documented and airworthy, the stuff ought to work especially when you’re spending several cubic yards of cash on it. You can have both but it takes manpower to do it. My opinion only

How old is the mag and the plugs

If it’s an FInplane it could be a piece of debris in a fuel injector nozzle. A multipoint engine monitor with data logging would help identify this. Also same thing with an intermittent fouling plug. A single cylinder with a shorted plug will cause this. Also a mag acting up or randomly misfiring can cause intermittent roughness. Start with the gas then look at the plugs.

Two friends of mine have this problem. One found a way to adjust the gain in the G5 on the pitch and it fixed it. Both shops said they can’t do anything further.