kortopates

Have you verified its not one of the inline fuses for it yet? Have you tried Mooney? Its repairable if you can find an instrument overhaul shop that has documentation on the instrument. If you have to replace it it would probably be more cost effective to put the cost towards a TSO'd engine monitor.

The amazon link is not based on the correct standard, (M25988), and therefore is not really a legal "standard parts" without the proper standard #. Also its just the big one. Anyway, for the Shaw 431/531 cap you'll need (I am not sure what model that is with the notches around it): M25988/1-338 – big o-ring M25988/1-010 – small o-ring MS24665-298 – cotter Cheapest I have found them is Skygeek.com - however they show the wrong color but correct standard (image mistake?) http://www.skygeek.com/military-standard-m25988-1-338-o-ring-fluorosilicone-70a.html 0-rings Inc used to have great prices on these, but no longer: https://oringsusa.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_90_94/products_id/94000338 All have the the small -010, which is very cheap and also available at Spruce as well as the above two places

The factory 252 belly pan is very light and I would expect it to be the same as the LASAR. After all, Paul L resurrected a 252 maybe built his first one for his 252. The Encore went to carbon fiber cowling and probably the same for the belly pan- so if you really want "light" that could be an option. But it's MUCH cheaper to follow@lancecasper lead! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What doesn't sound right is the notion that you can name one "backup" and the other "primary" to your convenience. More specifically, I understand the instrument that is considered your primary must be in located in the primary position on your panel; and the so called backup instrument must not be in the center position intended for the primary. So this begs the question on how your panel layout will meet the requirements of keeping your G5 within the location limits for being primary for Attitude and the 3 Aspens still located close enough to center so that they are still workable for you as primary.

Rumor has it, that using that technique you can turn a 60 degree bank turn into a 1 G or less maneuver ! LOL's (ok, without the sarcasm, truth be known, every private pilot learned how to do even that without an AOA, although just not to 60 deg.)

If you look hard enough you'll find them on C172's ! There everywhere an owner added them. Few manufacturers include them as standard equipment. Mooney doesn't install them on the Acclaim, but you can add them. My K has lots of time in the flight levels and was certified to 28K and Mooney did not install them. It still doesn't have them and its never been an issue or surely they would have been installed when P-Static became an issue. But it hasn't.

No problem for the F or any vintage mooney. Do them regularly with clients; especially those commercially rated. I use a VA/light (i.e. less than max gross Va) of 120 mph for all the vintage Mooney's C/E/F/G's,

I am familiar with the rational, it stems from the longer wave RF that was much more susceptible to P-Static. Its also read through the internet for years now the following points that I have seen to evidence to contradict: - At the relatively slow airspeeds of our piston GA fleet that we fly, we are pretty much immune to P-Static - Our modern avionics are much superior at filtering out noise than the old radios - Mooney doesn't install these as standard but gives an option for owners to install them. But merely bolting/screwing on static wicks on top of the painted control surface has been said to be worthless by supposed static wick experts that say the bond between the wick and the control surface needs to be made against bare metal and in addition to screws/rivets they use a very expensive bonding epoxy. This is why the a proper static wick has removable screw in wicks for replacement. Also important to their effectiveness is the need that all control surfaces are also bonded to the airframe. According to these experts most/many wicks installed on GA aircraft are improperly installed and not doing their job anyway. - Not that much of the GA fleet has static wicks installed, but when have you ever heard of a pilot flying that had P-Static interference take out their radios? I don't think Mooneyspace has a single instance of a complaint. (I've even seen a lighting strike hole in a Mooney Wing tip that didn't take out the radios - pilot didn't realize till after landing) - Personally, I think St Elmo's fire is about the only phenomenon we're still exposed too - would wicks matter there? I can't say - never experienced it. But I think the threat of P-Static to our VHF communications and VOR navigation is non-existent just by the sure number of aircraft flying in moisture with out wicks and the lack of complaints. My sense if it ever happens it has to be extremely rare. I raise the question because I wonder if anyone has experienced any p-static with today's modern avionics without them that was a problem. I think they get installed as insurance. But am no expert and therefore just asking.

Personally, I think the need for static wicks died with the ADF and Loran longer wave frequency's. I'd be curious if anyone has actually ever found they really needed them. I doubt it with higher frequency's we use today. Certainly not going to affect GPS. The government does it all on its own with its testing. On the other hand, since removing them leaves holes and if the original balancing of control weights included them (I doubt it) removing them now could put balancing at risk.

That's exactly how I avoided the sales tax on a $200K+ aircraft about 15 years ago. It required submitting documentation proving the aircraft was kept and flown out of state for required number of months. Submitting my documentation to the state franchise board got me a letter of exemption. But I understand that program for personal use has been ended and now the remaining method is limited to strictly businesses. But the specifics are on the franchise tax board's web site. Where ever you tie down or rent a hangar, they are obligated to give your N number to the county. Then it's just a matter of time till you get the bill. So in CA it's sales tax at purchase without an exemption letter, no matter what state you purchase it in, then property tax annually at about 1.5%. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like Lance says, just don't do them. Instead practice real landings of all kinds and real takeoffs of all kinds and taxi back. After initial training one generally doesn't need to do concentrated landing practice where you are not practicing good habits anyway. There has been way too many touch and go accidents. We won't do them at MAPA PPP training events nor will the Bonanza guys at their BPPs either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have the 115cf built in system, you won't even be able to fill it with two 125 cf tanks from near empty. 330's are two big for me to pick and move to refill so I use the 220's but 2 entirely full 125's starting from full without +P pressure will only get you to about 3/4 full. With +P pressure (~2200 psi) should get you near full. But I'd suggest getting larger tanks if able. Recognize this is not owner approved preventative maintenance and so highly suggest reviewing and following the instructions in the Maint Manual for servicing your O2. Its not hard but their are limitations to observe: the maximum fill PSI based on temperature table and also note the tank must not be down to totally empty to refill - it must still be pressurized before refilling or technically they call for removal and cleaning before re-filling if air has been able to get in. Servicing O2 is considered maintenance and as such its suppose to logged but this is rarely done except when it's serviced with other maintenance. I track my fills in a spreadsheet where I put the Boyles law formula in it which shows me exactly what PSI I will end up with starting with tank psi and the starting PSI and ending PSI's of my 2 cascading tanks. More than you need but shows my refill history.

I used the same Thermo-Tec adhesive backed material right on the cowling adjacent to my Turbo, which gets so hot it glows cherry red, and Thermo-Tec material has been working great for years.

I assume adjacent to the exhaust? You'll have to examine the cowling from the inside to assess the extent of the damage. You may find dry, soft, fiberglass material which will likely require a fiberglass repair and then to be protected with some heat shield material to prevent a re-occurrence.

You might get more helpful input if you indicate your location. There are good magneto shops all over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To counter some oxygen myths or misconceptions. Medical oxygen contains 0 moisture in the tank - moisture is added after it comes out of the bottle as it is being dispensed. Moisture in aviation O2 would be very bad and you don't need to be at high altitude or real cold temps. The cooling issue comes from Boyles law and decompressing 2000 psi in the tank just a few psi to breathe. if he didn't cut off your supply I imagine the ice crystals could damage our expensive regulators. Buts its not even a concern these days. There is zero moisture in 02 produced today by any industrial gas shop. They use air separation technology (including fractional distillation) to produce large batches of moisture free 02 for all their 02 needs e.g., industrial welding 02, Aviators O2, medical O2. Keeping moisture out doesn't cost any more, its a natural byproduct of how they produce it. So what's different about Aviators 02? for one it has be tested and results logged to show its purity and moisture content. In the old days before my time, some sources of 02 were not moisture free - hence the concern. But more importantly to us these days, the fill is done with a more thorough cleaning (vacuuming of the receptacle) tank since we're going to breathe it unlike industrial welding O2. This is also true for medical 02. But Medical O2 requires a prescription to be filled and aviators O2 does not.

Thanks for sharing, that's perfect and shows me how it was installed using the prior push/pull cable mount on the panel. Since the 252 cowl flap indicator is directly below the trim and flaps indicator on the far right edge, it would be possible to add it to the pedestal but another cable would have to pulled through the firewall. Not sure its worth it.

The going rate, that pretty common starting rate here at $60 in Socal for independent out the truck mechanics. Suggestion of $25 hr here would get you a wack over the head with their torque wrench. We too have some military IA's that moon light after hours and weekends, but they charge more than the full time guys working out of the back of their truck - $75 hr

You were very fortunate, but there is no way you can refer to a licensed A&P/IA as a "hangar fairy"! Although fairies are unable to write (log book entries), and most don't have access to documentation or can't read (maint manuals etc) A&P/IA is fully literate and god in the eyes of the FAA.

The 252 flaps are rigged entirely differently than the 231. The 231 has only 3 positions and just like you said, its not practical to run your 252 at fully closed nor is practical to run the 231 that way, so the closed position actually has to allow for the minimum opening. But since the 252 cowl flaps don't have this problem in that they are infinitely adjustable, instead they are rigged such that the closed door trailing edge is flush with the bottom cowling when closed; despite we don't actually operate them fully closed. When adjusted there, that gives the proper amount of opening in the fully open position and proper cowl flap degree of opening indication in the cockpit. Also I believe you're telling me with your vernier cable control you retain the full adjust ability without any creeping - if that the case that's much better than I thought. I would love to see a picture of cockpit pedestal with the vernier control and position indicator since I have never see this setup.

Me either because Mooney only used them in 24v aircraft. But check the K IPC to see if they listed a 12v to be sure. I wonder if you actually have a 24V that moves slower? Keep in mind the new current motor spec that Globe returns has a larger holes in the shaft and you will likely have to drill out the 2 holes in the mating part as discussed in the other thread on this. But that is a good thing since it makes your old mating part like new again, I.e. Gets rid of wear in the original holes that have become elongated from wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That begs the question, but I assume the 262 mod by them included the 252 cowling with the single lower cowl flap door. How they put the electric cowl flap motor in I don't know since Mooney did not use a 12V version but should really check the IPC to see if they have such a part. Interesting question. But it's well worth it. No doubt I am getting a few knots speed improvement with it in every flight because of its adjustability and the first motor lasted 29 - didn't even actuality fail but I OH'd preemptively when I had the engine off since the hole on the shaft has worn elongated and I was concern for future failure. Globe said it was a tired motor. Cost was only a few hundred $ through globe and they send you a new motor, Mooney, whom I like to support as much as I can, charged $1400 then. Still the cheapest speed mod I have! If you can retrofit it, it's well worth it. I'd offer a ride in mine but I think we're far apart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cyl #4 is definitely showing signs of a sticking valve a.k.a. morning sickness. But the data on #1 is inconclusive and I doubt you'll find #1 sticking. It should really be sticking from startup and thus show a cold EGT from startup, but a normal EGT at startup that then goes cold temporarily may not be a sticky valve. More commonly, its sticking at startup and then as power as applied it will un-stick itself - till the day comes when it doesn't. Or during low power cruise as it cools it will begin sticking open again. But anytime while its sticking, you're engine is at serious risk of eating a valve which makes it well worth addressing asap to avoid.

I was originally headed the Sandia 340 unit myself - till they came out with the ESI-500 after the Genesis. With the full stand by capabilities and the added Nav capabilities I thought it was it was worth as expensive as it was so that I could drop an extra OBS-CDI display for Nav backup if I lost my G500. Plus at the time, Sandia was having issues with early units and they were having to go back to the factory for firmware update which was giving me cold feet. Although that shouldn't be an issue now. But with the ESI-500, its just my G500 which displays both GPS and VOR/LOC inputs and the ESI-500 with switch to enable displaying Nav inputs from GPS#1 or GPS #2 (which are GTN750 & 650) for instruments. Very clean panel. And I still have the option of adding Syn Vis to the ESI-500. Truthfully, I have backup Nav on the GPS's directly, but the the GPS displays don't provide GS without an external CDI, hence the desire for a backup nav display.

Curious, I just helped a friend get the B&N standby alternator added to his Bonanza. B&N makes a few different models, 2 of which are for Continental big bore engines which would work on the Ovation, but only with a field approval - since there is no STC for the Mooney. These standby alternators are only 20 amps and need 2000+ rpm to do that. Of course they're better than single alternator, single battery configuration, but not nearly as a capable as a true second full output alternator such as on the 252's, and Bravo's. I have not heard of one fitting on the TSIO-360 engine vacuum pad - its too tight of a fit with the starter as far as I know. The belt driven true second alternator used on the Continentals require a different starter adapter configuration. Not sure if one is available for the GB or LB. But even on a 252 that lacks this option today, years ago you could get the required starter adapter for a few thousand dollars, swap out your old one and add the second alternator for a few thousand more but now (a few years ago actually) they were quoting $8K for the starter adapter alone, then add the cost for the alternator and re-wiring in the cockpit to the buss, load meter etc and you'll quickly be over $10K. Most people find it easier to find another air-frame that already has a second alternator rather than pay today's cost to add one.