kortopates

Not sure I understand you. If you are saying that you need to set the HSI OBS to the DTK-Desired Track then that is normal when you do not have an auto-slewing HSI - which I would expect with your Century and this don't mean they're not talking to each other, just the HSI can't autoslew. But also keep in mind the OBS on the HSI does not have to set to the proper DTK to get proper right/left CDI indications, since just like on an ILS it doesn't matter where you put the OBS, but you still want to dial in the proper course/radial for your own improved situational awareness. A more important test would be to put the GTN 650 into OBS mode on the GPS and make sure the GPS senses what ever your HSI CDI OBS is dialed too. i.e. if you have the CDI OBS set to 150 degree and you push the OBS button on the GPS while in GPS mode, the DTK on the GPS should now be on 150 degree or very close to it and as you turn the OBS knob on the HSI CDI to change the radial/course the GTN DTK should be updating to match whatever you twisted the radial too . (On the 650 you need to be on the Default Nav page to do all this)

Since the symptoms are at low power and idle, be sure to test IDLE Mixture by idling at minimum RPM and slowly leaning till the engine dies. You should see a 25-50 rpm rise before it dies - see what you get. Checking for the sniffle valve is another good idea given the idle/low rpm symptoms.

No signs of misfire in the data, but the 6 sec default sampling rate is too slow to give much chance of seeing any. The sampling rate needs to be updated to its fastest rate of 1-2 sec to provide diagnostic value. Ground runs aren't very informative but we should be able to get some better data by isolating the mags for a good 30 sec each and see if that shows any misfire. But nothing in this data points at ignition yet; nor is it conclusive to eliminate it. Its kinda hard to overlook EGT4 is cold. We know the cyl isn't really dead because of CHT4 but we have nothing to detect a mixture or ignition issue without EGT.

They all nailed it above, check for loose connection or chaffed harness. But since it came back to normal that is most likely pointing to chaffed connection that was grounding somewhere. So I'd follow the harness all the way back to the firewall and correct any chaffing as necessary.

I understand, I don't use my speed brakes much at all, but they are nice once in awhile when I can't get what I want from ATC. But its sure a lot easier to replace the conduit and the cables for the speed brakes than to deal with the wing holes you'll have pulling the speed brake cartridges. In fact I can't imagine a pretty solution but then I have never seen that done. I can't be very sure, but I recall replacement cable conduit from Precise flight was in the $100-$200 range. I kept my engine driven vacuum pump solely for my spreed brakes, but that doesn't way much either.

That's a recent new change. Kinda nice. Congrats on getting it back in the air.

I don't know where he is based either nor have I seen a N number yet, but the references news article says he was a San Diego area pilot. Mike's reference to his firm references Fallbrook which suggest he could be based at Fallbrook, L18. And more recent news articles are confirming his '90 M20J was based at Fallbrook. So I think @neilpilothas properly matched the N number as N9133Z.

Awesome adventure and very inspiring!

I'll say, that like going from getting your toes wet to diving into the deep end! Congrats @David Herman

False sense of economics IMO - as in penny wise and pound foolish. If you're going to use that logic then you also have to recognize that with the original gauges and a 830 you are grounded if an original gauge (take your pick) fails. The 830, as nice as it is, but it doesn't legally replace any of your OEM gauges. But reality is the EDM 900 is far more reliable then your OEM gauges. And should you have a probe failure or the like, you'll be back up and running right away and likely at far less expense that trying to get your old unobtanium gauges repaired or replaced. Most importantly you wont have to waste more money on some TSO'd dedicated replacement gauge like a new digital RPM or MAP gauge because your old one can't be repaired. Make the investment, it pays for itself over time and adds real resale value to the plane.

I've seen this before caused by a leakage in the Merlyn pneumatic line or a UDP leakage. Make sure you don't have any leakage in the Merlyn lines and that the both pressurized mag hoses are connected.

Sounds like you are setting up to verify how much LOP correctly from the lean side. But 8.5 GPH is only 55% power. At 55% or even uptp 60% power (9.2 GPH) you'll do better to fly at peak or more specifically, from the LOP side, enrichen just till the richest cyl peaks getting the rest on the LOP side rather than ROP side. To calculate LOP % power with your 7.5 compression ratio = 13.7 * FFgph / 210hp For higher power settings, both LOP and ROP, I suggest using Gami's recommended and FAA approved number which you can get here http://www.gami.com/gamijectors/afms - gamijectors rev ir.pdf

@Bob you need to download your data and verify, but it looks like FF is driving MAP up just as @jlunseth suggest. They are entirely related and @Cardinal767 explanation of why increasing FF will push TIT which will push up MAP is spot on. The more HP or higher MAP and more LOP the engine is the more sensitive it is simply because temps drop off more rapidly with increasing LOP, while in contrast operating ROP temperatures are more flat with small mixture changes. very correct on the need to set up EDM HP constant before trying to use it.

My mistake on expecting to find a CAS correction based on Altitude - such a chart does not exist. Just like @jaylw314 has indicated above, all the more modern NA Mooney POH will show you that Vx IAS goes up with altitude. The closest modern example to your G is the J model which indicates only going up 1.0 kts for every 5000'. More horsepower and Turbo aircraft go up at faster rate but still relatively a small amount(e.g. 1.5 kts per 5000' for K Encore). The longbody's don't even publish a change in Vx based on altitude - presumably since its pretty negligible. But I sure can't explain your POH verbiage that says the opposite wrt to IAS speeds. So I would go by the chart you on page 6-5 that shows a constant Vx of 82 CAS. My MAPA numbers show 70 as a VX takeoff config speed, but this isn't specifically called out in your POH and I believe this stems from the midpoint of the recommended Vref speed in your POH of 65-75. The recommended MAPA Vref uses the higher number of the range or 75 mph. So in order - our MAPA V speeds numbers for the G are: Vref/Liftoff 75 mph Takeoff at 50' agl 80 mph (based on your POH suggesting by 80-90 mph IAS you should have cleared all obstacles and raised gear and flaps by this range) Initial Climb=Vy clean 101 mph Cruise climb 110 mph Lastly going back to Vx takeoff config - as mentioned your POH doesn't specifically call out the 70 mph, but just list a range of Vref at 65-75 mph (based on weight). I would interpret this as Vx takeoff config being around 70-75 mph with Vx clean being 82 as stated in the table on page 6-5. But I would not worry about the POH note regarding Vx decreasing with altitude given that is in direct conflict with the POH table 6-3 and more modern Mooney POH including the J with the same airframe, just your G is less HP. But if you could also email Frank Crawford at Mooney, whom is responsible for the POH's & documentation and ask if he has any information on that. Good chance he probably does somewhere.

Look for a table that shows CAS vs IAS and be careful with IAS vs CAS vs TAS. You should find that with altitude you will need a bit more IAS to maintain the same CAS. If we stick to CAS, no error, then Vx will essentially not change with altitude yet Vy will decrease with altitude till it hits Vx at your DA ceiling. For practical value you only use Vx to clear obstacles in airport/runway environment. You would never use Vx to clear a mountain pass miles away since you would use Vy to get to altitude in the least time and circle over lower terrain such as the airport if you couldn’t get high enough in a straight line to the pass. Further, if you don't have immediate obstacles to clear there is no need to climb at Vx - it's actually adds considerable risk to pilots in an engine out because too often pilots don't push the yoke forward right away to glide speed and stall out spinning in with out any chance of recovery. ( just had such a fatality in my area a couple weeks ago) I much prefer to accelerate to a cruise climb airspeed above Vy (Vy+10-20) well before TPA when obstacles are not a concern. This gives you plenty of options in the form of time as well as improved sight picture in an emergency and without significantly decreasing your ability to make it back to airport if you do have sufficient altitude. Deakin has a excellent article on more details of why not to climb at Vx and Vy on Avweb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally wouldn't fly IMC with only one NAV. Your only one radio or one indicator failure away from having an totally unnecessary emergency. It could be really dire if not in a radar environment and in the mountainous west. I personally wouldn't want to put my trust in a iPad for navigation - its a situational awareness tool. That said, both my Nav/GPS/Comms get a full workout. For instance, one radio is dedicated to ATC while the other is limited to airports. This allows me to keep switching ATC frequencies while I am using the second radio to get ATIS, and then set up the tower and ground freq at the arrival airport. The second GPS is not as critical since these boxes are very reliable but helps to ensure my fall back won't be to VOR navigation. But it also sure helps with other chores such as monitoring nearest airports while navigating on the other. it also allows letting me use the utilities on one without losing prime navigation on the other like programming in the descent rate required for passing fix restriction ahead or for a long descent from altitude to put me at TPA a mile out ....

I loved that video - one of my biggest pet peeve's as well! Here is the link to it:

I never thought any of the very good discussion on slipping seat rails was ever meant in the context of what MUST of happened to the pilot but merely a good possibility - as good as any of many possibilities. But one that brought up a very good discussion of how to be on guard for it. All very positive IMO and entirely appropriate since this is when folks are most interested in learning from what if possibilities. FWIW, I have had my seat pop out twice on takeoff. Luckily I had the benefit of exactly this type of discussion many years ago. It was from exactly such a discussion as this that I got educated on this issue well enough that I was prepared enough to stay safe. The best precaution IMO is as @Skates97 says above, be sure to actually push down on the seat locking mechanism to make sure it's in positively when you position your seat. Not just let it pop into position. Then secondly, and most importantly, make sure you let go of the yoke while your seat is slipping back to rear seat. As long as the aircraft is properly trimmed for takeoff, you'll only soil your underwear by the time you get your self back up front since a properly trimmed aircraft will be okay for a few seconds. But this underlines the importance of being properly trimmed for takeoff. But it was exactly one of these hypothetical discussion inspired by an accident that educated me enough to be prepared and I am sure this thread will likely save some one else in the future that wasn't aware of this till now and learns about this as I did. Just let go of the yoke as @MyNameIsNobody said above. (although I didn't understand the part on the releasing the seat belt since its attached to the seat - anyway I don't recall needing to undo the belt to pull myself back up front). I am a bit embarrassed it happened to me twice before I replaced all seat rails. But the first time I blamed it more on not having the seat positively locked into the holes. But the second time I realized the holes were just too rounded/worn. I didn't need further convincing with a third event and at the next annual I was down for weeks as I replaced all 4 seat rails which not an easy a job. Our seat rails do appear to be identical to Cessna's which have an AD that requires them now to be replaced on schedule of hours - no longer on condition with a go-no go gauge.

My recollection is the P003 suffix refers to the 3 thousands oversize. You'll want to start with the standard size and only go to the over size if the standard size fits loose.

I recall 30 if you have speed brakes too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boy, i was right on with it being the #3 gasket. I believe what you refer to as #6 is actually your #5. Unfortunately, you can’t assume you’ll need the standard stud, you may need to go oversize. Your tech will know when a new one is screwed in if it’s not tight. Loctite should be used too. But before it goes back together make sure the aluminum exhaust port is cleaned up from any erosion caused by the leak - otherwise it will continue to leak. i.e. it may likely need to resurfaced to be perfectly flat if the leak burned away aluminum as it often does. There are tools to do this in-situ if needed so that cylinder doesn’t need to be pulled. BTW, it’s not uncommon for these engines to shed exhaust bolts which is why it’s so important to inspect these with every oil change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We see it go both ways at Savvy. But the piggy back is quite close. But the spark plug gasket probes are terrible and they can go either way too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The piggyback adapter probes work pretty well for CHT. But the real issue IMO is that your 730 is just very limited. You really need a full up engine analyzer that includes FF, MAP, RPM, oil temp & press and that is integrated with your GPS for alt etc. all that data is critical to interpreting what’s going on with the engine at altitude. The EDM 900 is my choice, but if need to for budget, you could simply upgrade the display to the 830 and add the few additional sensors and be much better off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After my last post I felt a little remiss about not mentioning the safety issue of continued flight. Thirty minutes is a very short flight that probably most would be tempted to continue. But recognize a loss of MAP as experienced here is very significant. A small leak, whether induction or exhaust, will not typically cause a significant loss of MAP. A large leak is more likely with significant loss of MAP, and consequently if its exhaust the threat of fire is very real and there is no more time critical emergency than fire. All this adds up to the need to divert to a nearby field before things get much worse. Maybe it turns out to be a minor induction leak, but you just never know. Luckily these kinds of turbo related issues are pretty rare, but we need to diligent about getting down if and when they do occur. Sure don’t mean to be critical of Bryan in this instance, this was really meant for others that have yet to experience such an emergency. Hopefully very few will. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The exhaust soot found by the induction panel is really a sign of a significant exhaust leak which of course will rob you of MAP. As others have said this is very serious since the exhaust leak, once it develops, can be like a torch and grow in size causing more damage and eventually an engine fire and or failure. Given the location it’s more likely a popped or leaking cyl exh gasket around #3 but could also be an exhaust tube or turbo itself. This engine isn’t very prone to cracking of the turbo case, but it happens. Likely not the V clamp, since that is lower and further aft. BUT you can and should be gently wiggling the tail pipe with every pre-flight to check the security of the V clamp. It shouldn’t move. You don’t need to decowl the engine to check the V band clamp - just grab the tail pipe to check its secure. This is an important pre-flight check! (And should be covered in transition training on all turbo’s) Getting back to the exhaust leak, it should be very obvious with the cowling removed - just look for the source of any grey soot you find. Looking for any evidence of leakage is part of every 25 hr service or oil change. The only normal location is on your belly aft of the exhaust tail pipe. Unless the turbo is the source of the leak it is likely fine. Let us know what you find. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk