kortopates

I have no idea what Garmin would charge for their STC for used avionics, but the orginal STC is not transferable and one for your plane must be obtained from the owner of the STC (if you really need it). Since Garmin owns it and can issue you a new one, I would call them. A 337 is generally always filed for avionics installs even though some installs can be considered a minor mod. But typically a GPS interfaces with an autopilot, and other instruments making it more than a minor. The 337 is what references the STC. With the STC it bypasses the local FSDO and just needs signoff from your IA before being sent to OKC. But without an STC you need field approval from your local FSDO. I have no idea if a field approval 337 is a possibility without a STC - but that may be another option. But if the Fargo FSDO is the one the telling you that you need the proper paperwork they should be able to give you your options. But getting the STC from Garmin would be the cleanest approach.

where are your EGTs?

We see significant amount of variation in max FF, and you're not taking off from sea level either. KPOC is 1014' which reduces your MAP by a full 1". You're good. As I said above, I wouldn't be the slightest bit concerned with those EGTs.

You're fine if you're seeing that (1200-1300) range at sea level and 2700 rpm. Cruise EGT isn't even related since you're leaning to that; it's more of function of your % power (8.5 GPH isn't that high either).

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that the adapter has to come off though. It looks like two bolts have to come off securing the bracket and adapter but without pulling the adapter.I haven't had to get at the rear bracket before, but I have pulled the entire cover off that holds the front bracket to reseal it with silk thread and sealant before - all in situ. Its a common oil leak. Which is not easy given the clearances. Anyway, just suggesting it may not need to be so drastic to get too. But even without pulling the adapter, one might need to pull the right mags as well to get to the starter adapter bottom bolt that holds the bottom bracket.. If the adapter does have to come out anyway, besides mags, it also requires pulling the intercooler, starter and vacuum pump which is why I would trying for the less drastic option first if at all possible. Good luck.

We can also get a good sense of how rich your mixture is by EGTs (especially TIT with Turbos). Chris @Marauder EGTs are all right where they should be from mid 1200 to mid 1300s'. I get concerned when I see them above 1400F full power and full rich. CHTs are too influenced by airflow to trust them as a proxy for mixture.

It does happen to folks learning how to do it by going to slow or to fast an RPM. My suggestion, less than 1000rpm, do it as quick as you can to show yourself you'll avoid backfire. Then slow it down progressively just enough you can feel the engine dying. Thats all you need. Its only on Off for a fraction of a second. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good question Lance. Since the museum was the idea of the past CEO Jerry Chen, I suspect the concept may have lost its sponsor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great catch - but check out the Gatts Jar for the serious sumping our Mooneys deseve. Those little beakers are much too little for the sample size we should be taking when we have been parked out in the the rain away from home and many have missed a full beaker of water. Plus the Gatts Jar has a millipore like filter to allow returning the sample back to the tank while still holding any water which solves the disposal issue. http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/gatsfueljar.php?gclid=CjwKCAjw7vraBRBbEiwA4WBOn54mtyhXT8omuOsTEwWMmzDdvXjpvVzuZV8FhCGt6FLdYwQGU9RLzRoCfp4QAvD_BwE Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Clatence for pointing out my typo - that should have been ungrounded rather than grounded when we move to Off quickly to test. When a p-lead breaks (or perhaps switch contacts are failing) it prevents grounding the mag in the Off position so that the coil can't induce a current. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The vacuum pump concern is one of those OWT's. Nothing to be worried about there - your safety is far more important. Eric answered your first. At idle RPM it's not an issue if you don't delay going back to both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, but bladders aren’t even an option for a 231. It’s patch or reseal; preferably by someone with a proven track record and with a warranty as mentioned above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't take this end date of the NOTAM seriously. It seems every fire fighting TFR is created with the maximum expiration time. They'll cancel it whenever they have the fire contained and finished with their airborne ops. We had a similar situation down here in SOCAL with out Pasqual fire that started last Friday that was very close to our Ramona airport. By that afternoon we had a TFR (while I was in the air) and evacuations going on. By the following day, since the airport was closed due to the fire (except for CAL Fire operations) pilots were in a rage because the NOTAM similarly stated the airport would be closed for months and therefore certain to effect airport business's livelihood and access to people's planes. It was only another day till the fire was over, evacuations were lifted and the TFR was canceled.

This is another Continental vs Lycoming thing and of course they are very different. Although we adjust Max redline FF, idle FF and mixture on the Continentals we can only adjust idle mixture on the Lycoming as @Clarence said above. With all the data I see at Savvy, the nominal max FF for sea level departure at 2700 rpm is about 18 1/2 GPH for the 200HP FI IO-360's and about 16 1/2 GPH for the 180HP Carbureted O-360. (So @Hank is doing real well seeing 18 GPH with his carbureted O-360 - does it have power flow exhaust?) Powerflow exhaust is an example of when some planes need to have their max FF adjusted up a bit since they can run even hotter after the mod.

Good for you and Sorry Erik if I came off a little too strong but its not your fault you didn't get that training but its such a huge safety factor before we get out and grab our prop to push back etc. we should all be doing it. As well as turning the prop backwards when we must. I myself didn't learn the safe way about turning the prop backwards till A&P school. I wish one of my instructors had enlightened me much earlier. The critical thing is the engine doesn't need to restart to kill you, its just needs one good pop! Those that have been Mooney owners for over 15 years may recall and a very good A&P that used to work at Dugosh whose account was on the old Mooney list years ago. He got hit in the head by a single pop. Although he survived the massive head injury, it was not without a long convalescent period and permanent brain injury. He tried to return to work for a short time but it didn't work out. One pop is all that it takes. And this event continues to repeat time and again. Don't let it happen to you.

You'll be able to sense the engine is dying right away. Since it takes longer than what you allow with a quick flip of the key to the off, soon as you have the key back on Both the engine resumes running just fine. It does not need to come to complete stop for you to sense you have removed the spark for a second and the engine is dying. You might need a demonstration by your A&P or someone that's experienced. Its a shame though that you weren't taught this during your primary instruction since its a safety issue before you go push the plane back into its parking place or hangar. But not all CFI's know this unfortunately. Incidentally, shutting down the engine with the ignition key potentially creating a dangerous conditions with fuel still in the cylinder ready to be lighted off with a single release of an impluse coupling. But yes the key would have to be left in too.

It can’t pop turning backwards! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve done it multiple times including BIG radial engines. It’s not that hard once you have had training. But no one has any business trying without prior training on how to do it safely- the stats speak for themselves. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s testing that the P-lead is not grounded before shutdown. Everyone SHOULD have been taught this by their instructor - preferably primary! Doing the run up test it too but after any flight you need to re-test that the p-leads are STILL not grounded before getting out and grabbing the prop! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly right, but there is a genuine need to move the prop by both mechanics and pilots - you just gave an excellent and very common example of needing to move the prop to hook up the the tug or tow bar. So how do we safely move the prop without getting hurt from it in case the p-leads are not grounded? Mechanics are taught to turn the prop backwards when moving it - this will prevent the impulse coupling from releasing.

Although I totally agree in principal, the article doesn't tell us how he got hit. Was he hand propping? Did he get out after starting to pull a chock? Did he ....? I am sure still very preventable regardless and sad never the less.

I wouldn't expect anyone without at least front shoulder belts to defend their position. Not withstanding we realize we have well respected Mooneyspacers without them - It's not defensible. Its just like saying some peoples lives aren't worth the effort or cost to install shoulder belts. http://alphaaviation.com/mooney-minor-change-kit-m20-a-thru-g-and-early-j/

Nice, but not quite the same since yours has the tail strobe firing in-between your sync'd wing Orions. That could be evening out the draw - I don't know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a Orion 500. Part no will depend on 12v vs 24 volt. Like the 650, it's a combination strobe and nav light. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whether it's your forever airplane or not, your survival as a pilot, as well as your precious cargo, will be greatly enhanced with an engine analyzer and the knowledge of how to use it. These days good airmanship includes the knowledge of how to manage and monitor your engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk