N601RX

Usually there is an overvoltage relay in the circuit. Sometimes its external, other have it built in to the regulator. If it is activated, the the field circuit is opened and the alternator will not produce any output.

Have you considered a HID landing light and LED taxi light?

Check with Atlanta air exchange. They have a special trailer that will tilt sideways at about a 45 deg angle. I've saw them move a wide plane with it that would have otherwise been unmovable on the road With the engine and tailfeathers removed, and the tail sticking up at a 45 deg angle the tailcone might not have to be removed. I think they have some pictures on their website. I saw them bring a plane in on it a few years ago while I was there getting some parts.

Is there any possible to replace the front gear and prop and then ferry it? You are going to have to replace these anyway and they labor to remove and reinstall the tailcone is going to be expensive. Not to mention it is going to require paint touch up.

Aircraft Specialties is very busy and have a large business. I purchased all my internal engine parts from them when I overhauled my engine. They had the best prices and had everything I needed in stock.

I would do it early in the morning, before it gets hot. That will help with the cooling. I did mine in January and did not have any cooling problems after about the 1st 30 minutes. I think either Lycoming or ECI has something that says not to do it if the OAT is above 90.

The key is who puts them back together and what their motive is. Unfortunately often it is to sell for largest profit possible which often results in shortcuts and undocumented repairs.

The 1st tipoff that this plane has had enough damage to be totaled by the insurance company is the name of its previous owner. http://flightaware.com/resources/registration/N1170U

The Lycoming list price for a IO 390 cylinder is a little over $4100.

I rigged this up last summer to keep cool while working inside the plane. It was 105 inside the hanger and it would keep the interior of the plane around 80. If I had rigged up a return, it would have done much better. I suppose it could be started remotely with Phil's box.

One question I would have about the IO 390 is parts cost and availability. Their can't be that many of them out there, so it is unlikely Superior or ECI will be making parts for them and Lycoming will be the only source. Has anyone priced a cylinder for one? It might make our angle vavled cylinders look like a good deal.

Easy on that landing light switch/CB. They are almost $200.

I have the Accuflite, Accutrack and altitude hold. They work great, and fit my budget when the other options did not. They are also inexpensive to keep working.

Preload only comes into play in the last inch or so of handle travel as the gear is put into the wheel/gear down position.

Its a easy one hand job. Are there any rub marks on the front gear doors where they are hitting the tire? If this is happening it will be about an inch or so before the doors close. If its lubed well and no rod ends are stuck the the overcenter torque is to high. If a mechanic in your area don't have the torque plates, you may want to consider purchasing a set. Several people on here have .

The right mag should be grounded out during starting and it should start on the retarded breaker points in the left mag. I used the Spruce ASC replacement switch a couple of years ago and did not have any problems with it. I remember it had the jumper for the retard breaker and a diode for the starter relay. It seems like the wiring diagram was slightly different for it than the Mooney diagram, but it worked fine.

Did he install the jumper on the new switch?

I used 1/2" and then glued a sleeve over it to cut the slot in . Also butted some caps up to the T

Yes, there is an adjustment screw on the side of the flap master cylinder. The service manual gives a number as to how fast they will come up. They come up much faster in the air than on the ground.

Manuals M20C,D,E,&G_Install_dwgs.pdf M20F-J Install Instructions.pdf

My bladders are almost 20 years old and had some leaks about 3 years ago when I purchased it. They are connected with short aluminum pipes and heavy duty hose clamps. These may need snugging up a little. Each cell has a access plate in the top of it. The access plate has a cork gasket around it and several bolts that need to be torqued to a specific torque. There are also 2 cork gaskets around each fuel sender. O&N told me that sometimes tightening the bolts a little would normally stop the leaks, but In my case they had already been overtightened and squeezed the gaskets out a little. They sold me a complete gasket set for $110 and that stopped all my leakes. I have a copy of the install manual if you need it. It contains the correct torques. I took the oppertunity to drain them completely and get the stuff out that had accumulated over the years. O&N also told me they had never had a bladder itself leak, it was always a interconnect pipe or gasket.

I've always pushed the throttle all the way in just as the engine starts to die from the mixture being pulled on shutdown. It makes the shutdown smoother and the engine don't jump around as bad. Before doing this I make a mental note of the throttle position that gives me about 1000rpm idle and put it back there after the engine stops. If you continue to have problems with hot starts after using the procedures others mentioned above, then it is time to have your ignition looked at. That made a huge difference for me.

Looks great. Is it the smoke grey or clear? The only problem is its going to want to make you want to do your side windows now.

The JPI STC doesn't really give any direction on how to route the wires. I didn't want mine anywhere near the plug wires and didn't like the idea of running them down by the exhaust like I've saw many others. I kept them up high and have not had any problems. I also figured they would be a lot less likely to get oil soaked up high.

When Taxing with the pedals level, will it taxi straight or turn slowly to one side? Are the rudder stops adjusted correctly? Does it have the newer style nose gear with the turning stops? If so are they adjusted so that they don't prevent full steering in both directions. They should not touch until after you have full rudder deflection. I also found a fuel and brake line that here rubbing during full rudder inputs in one direction. It was behind the exhaust cavity on the pilot side. It looked like there was plenty of clearance until a full rudder input was made.