N601RX

Here is the JPI DATA from my break in flight. It was the 1st time the engine had been cranked other than a few minutes the day before to make sure there was no leaks. I think the OAT was around 60 that day. Now at almost 25 hrs my temps and a OAT of 80 this weekend it was still below 320. This on a F model that isn't supposed to cool as well as a J. I have the Centri-Lub cam and ECI Moly rings, which may or may not be helping any. I'm not sure what the lycoming ring construction is. The only other other cylinders I've ever broken in were ECI's on a Cessna 150. I also saw a very pronounced temp drop in the 1st 30 to 45 minutes.

Both the engines that I have broken in have had noticeable CHT drops in the 1st hr of operation. It was on the order of 40deg or so. Both these was field overhauls and with only a quick runup to check everything out and check for leaks. After cool down and a good looking over they were cranked up and immediately flow. I suspect the reason you are not seeing the temp drop is because it occurred in the test cell at the overhauler.

I'm not sure if it is the same size as a baffle screw or not. Lowes also has screw like this. Mcmaster has them also. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cowlsealhardware5.php?clickkey=60204

How recent is this info? I talked to Bruce about 2 years ago and he was expecting it any time then. He sent me several pictues, it looks like a nice solution for below the window interior pieces.

Does anyone have the drawing Stacy mentioned above? I'm trying not to bother him if anyone has a copy they could share.

Its providing a pulse train to the jpi. All the commercially available halls are either NPN or PNP. Ocasionally I've saw one that has a TTL level output. Some have a internal pullup resistor, other times the pullup is in device it is hooked to. A couple of carefully crafted "troubleshooting " questions to JPI would tell you which they are using.

Is there anyway to visually verify that the pump turns when bolted to the engine and the prop is pulled through?

I'm not familiar with Continentials. Just a thought, but is the pump putting out so much fuel it is flooding the engine due to some other problem. Perhaps the low boost pump can't put out enough to do this?

Interesting, I'm about to pass 25 hrs on a field overhaul on my F model. On the 1st breakin flight in January it briefly touched 400 on the initial long climbout and then settled in at around 370. The oil briefly hit 215. After about a hr they came down in the 330's. and the oil 190. Now in cruise they run 310-320 and the oil stays around 190. LOP they will go under 300 ocasionally. Oil usage seemed to stabalize at around 10 hrs. My baffleing is in good shape, but not perfect. There are some small gaps that could be sealed. The numbers all came from a new JPI 830. My cylinders were 1st run cylinders that were overhauled and reused. The pistons were superior and the rings were eci. Based on what I read about J's I thought they would be cooler than my F. My oil cooler has been relocated to the rear of the engine.

Here is a nicely equipped TLS Bravo if someone wanted to take on a little bit of a project. Assuming the heat did not get hot enough to damage the spar. Be sure you know which panels are holding the fuel in before using the cordless drill on them!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-Mooney-TLS-Bravo-No-Reserve-fast-localized-maintenance-fire-fuel-bay-/181106338084?pt=Motors_Aircraft&hash=item2a2ac76924

Remove the inspection panel closest to the pushrod that goes out to the aileron. A handheld vac pump from a auto parts store is also very useful for making sure no leaks remain. You can plug it onto the red and green tube where the pilots side panel meets the side skin of the plane. It takes several pumps to bring the aileron down, but you can pump until the aileron is down and the watch the gauge on the pump to make sure it is not leaking anymore. If its leaking the leak can be further isolated by connecting the same pump to each side of the T fitting in the baggage compartment. The T is where the tubing splits and one line goes back to the tail and the other goes out to the wing. The brittain system works by controlling and balancing the suction flow between the Left and Right Servos. It cannot do this if there are any leaks present. So be sure that all the leaks are fixed before anyone makes any other adjustments to the system. It's a cheap and easy system to maintain and works great.

Send it back to Brittain. They are not that expensive. I would 1st check the other 3. You may need more than one. You can also find small holes by disconnecting the tube and placing your finger over it while pulling out on the servo. It should not leak. Even a small leak will affect how well it works.

I installed the Accutrack, Accuflite and altitude hold last year. The Accutrack and Accuflite work perfectly. The altitude hold works well, but will drift a few feet over several minutes. The altitude hold is a completely air system, (no electronics) so considering that and the low cost I'm not complaining.

This apear to still have the original factory engine other than the top overhaul. Be sure all the old Lycoming AD's have been complied with.

Same here.

Here is a year/model comparison. http://www.mooneyevents.com/chrono.htm

I would flush everything. The cost to flush is small compared to a engine. All the oil doesn't go throught the filter. The front of the prop holds about 1/2 quart of oil. The prop shop can screw the cap off and clean in out in 20 minutes or so. My prop was only 26 hr since new when I overhauled the engine. There was some really nasty stuff in it. They did it while I waited.

Mine works really well. As Dan mentioned if the nav signal to the the CDI is noisy or not stable, it will not work very well. I can switch mine between a Kx155, KNS 80 and KLN 94 and they all provide a stable signal. It is a add on to the basic wing leveler, so if there are any problems with the wing leveler, the autopilot will not work correctly. Based on what you said about it only keeping the wings level in smooth air I would suspect a problem with the basic wing leveler. Most of these problems are leaks in the boots or lines. It can be connected to any nav source that has Left+ and Right+ outputs.

Hopefully he will. His price was a lot more inline with what I thought most people were willing to spend than what the other companies are pricing theirs at. I believe there is a good market for reasonably priced mods.

There is a connection where the hoses pass through a bulkhead where the pilot side panel meets the side skin. You can unplug them and attach a hand vac pump from autozone. It will take several pumps (30 or more) but it deflect the aileron on that side all the way down. After retaping all my cans it would hold a 5" vac for several minutes without any leakdown. There is also a T fitting in the lower pilot side of the luggage compartment where the lines splits and goes out to the wing and back to the tail. You can also attach the pump there to test the wing and tail seperately. The tubing should be red and green unless it has been replaced with something else. You need a small hand to get the wing servos out.

10 lbs and no arm changes. I have not counted, but I think it will be around 40.

You have a vac leak on the right side servo plumbing or servo itself. There is one in each wing and 2 in the tail.

I purchased the new one that Nels had for sale that had never been installed. I tracked down the STC owner and got him to supply me with the correct paperwork. It is made by Aero Mods. In talking with him he told me that he had not made any of them in a few years but would like to make some more of them. His price is $1800. It has 2 runners down the middle. For the short bodies, you just cut some length off the rear. He told me he could install one in a day, So I suspect it will take me a weekend. He said most people who installed reported a 2 knots increase. It also gives you access to the area under the rear seat which is not a removable skin on my F model. The install of it involves drilling out several rivets to remove a couple of formers and middle skin that are no longer used and the match drilling all the mounting holes. Unfortunately the holes are not the same on any 2 planes. I invited him to come here and provide more information.

I'm about to install a 1pc belly and 201 Windshield. I'm going to do some before and after test and will report what I see.

I noticed something several years ago as I was flying up north with a garmin 396. I had never left Alabama/Florida with it before and just used the antenna on the back of it. It always worked fine. The further north I got the weaker the signal became. It went from 3D to 2D and then dropped out. I plugged in the remote antenna and it came back up. I was curious and made a mental note of were it happened. On the way back home I tried it several times with the remote antenna unplugged and it started back working in about the same place. Anone else ever noticed anything like this. It was in a high wing plane. For the people who have had problems with the IPAD and Foreflight, what was forflight reporting as the accuracy when you saw the errors?